GlenPettit

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GlenPettit last won the day on February 4 2015

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About GlenPettit

  • Rank
    Supporter, Vender
  • Birthday 08/04/1943

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    (Red Square) GlenPettit@WheelHorseForum.com
  • MSN
    (Home & PayPal) GlenPettit@icloud.com
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    http://glenpettit.wheelhorseforum.com
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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    RJ-55, RJ-58, 501, GT-14/FEL, C-101, C-141, C-161, (4) 312-8, 416-8, plus parters
  • favoritemodel
    Round Hoods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Eaton Rapids, MI
  • Occupation
    Retired (but busier than ever); former H.S. Voc. Printing Instr, & p/t M.S.U. instr in Pkg. Printing
  • Interests
    Family (2 daughters; 4 grandsons [triplets + single] & 1 granddaughter), Wheel Horses, Mold making & Casting (Wheel Horse parts), Organic Gardening, [Farm: Sheep, and Nut Trees], Engraving; Scrimshaw, travel.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. "Wheel Spacer" $65, eBay name: "1965Dodge2013", Bourbon, IN ... was item #321381519761 (But, this was 9 years ago). Google: "Garden Tractor", Wheel Spacers to see a variety of different methods. There maybe/should be other people making those spacers now ??? I've seen where people use a 2" wide piece of 12" White Plastic PVC pipe (which has very thick walls), for several years & were happy with it. Glen
  2. (1) Power: Your older 12hp would be about equal to a newer 20-22hp tractor today; small engines used to rated on horsepower and today are more on just speed (as I understand it). But, engines wear down in time, so a 50 year old unrestored 12hp engine may only have 8–10hp of output today. (2) Traction: That aerator is very heavy and with the prongs going down 3-4" into the ground, that creates a lot of drag, your Wheel Horse does have a transmission that is very strong can can pull it, but you need all your horse power going to it and excellent traction to keep your rear wheels down and "bitting in" without spinning (good 'lug' tires and lots of weight at the rear wheels, plus some weight on the front for steering). (3) On flat fairly dry ground, your tractor may be able to pull it, but even the turns will be a chore for it. (4) You can purchase a new "pull plug aerator" from the box stores for about $200, no motor, maybe 50# empty, with each turn the new soil goes up the tube pushing out the former soil. With 2-3 cement blocks on it for extra weight and in normal slightly moist soil, it will do a very good job. The plungers will plug up, (for me, maybe just once every 8-10 minutes that I have to stop and unplug a stone from one the plunger tubes, my soil is mostly clay, not stones), but I have this aerator whenever I want it. On our 4-acre pasture I always pull a "spike aerator" ($100) when I mow, to cut little slits in the soil, maybe 2" deep and about 4-5" apart. Must drive slow in 1st gear for the de-plugger, but for spikes I run in 2nd while mowing.
  3. Step 1: Take some pictures of it, both sides and rear to front . . . then post them here, we'll be able to tell you exactly what model it is then; also post any numbers you see on the side decals (that's the model), . . . the serial number is on a small metal-looking tag usually on the dash tower or the seat pan. Does your tractor run OK, and how does it sound when you change engine speed ? All your manuals and Operating booklets are available here as a free download, you can also see pictures of all Wheel Horse models in the pictures section, listed by year. ** Tires are an easy fix, easy to remove and put on the wheels (the heavy metal in center of tire), and you can get the (black rubber) tires and the mounting of the tire to the wheels done at many places (like Discount Tire = lowest prices usually). Welcome to Red Square
  4. Glen:

     

    I sent an order via PM and email. Thanks!


    Todd

  5. Yes, we have those 'exact replacement' Springs, they are extra strong (in Venders section). Also, two of the Hardware Store Springs will certainly work, together, probably almost as well as the heavy original. Lowell Scholljegerdes in MN is making the "Flags", and a lot of other 'hard-to-find' WH parts, also check his listing of all of the replacement parts he has down in the Venders section ( or www.WheelHorseMan1000.com). Glen
  6. TSC stores have a nice 5/8" diameter by 10" long 'Eye Bolt' that works perfectly for this, it leaves a 71/2" space to fit onto the Tac-a-Matic nicely (measured between the nut/washer and its 'eye'). Looks nice, and is plated to reduce rusting. The regular 5/8" bolts most places have in stock seem to only go up to a 6" length, . . . or you could purchase a3 foot long 5/8" round rod, cut it to length and drill a hole on each end for a cotter pin.
  7. ActionHorse: Could you also post photos of the sides and rear of your 520, I would also like to see those side-lights and decals. Very nice looking tractor modifications, and your closeup photos and descriptions (thread subject) is very helpful & timely. Glen
  8. I hope I'm not repeating/reposting this, I just came across it, from our UKWheelHorseBloke, who just got a D200 over there in England: (there are more videos of him on the YouTube sidebar).
  9. Yes (and no), there's a big mechanical advantage ––– you're using the large lever on the left plus a strong 'helper spring' (and a 'flag') underneath, so just your left arm while sitting can raise the snowblower easily. Ask him to keep searching and keep a big eye open –– it's those little small parts that are often left behind that have become so valuable and hard to find, and even harder to reproduce, like the small 'flag' and 'Spring', etc.
  10. Usually those 2-piece Weights are designed so they could also mounted on the inside-side of your wheel if you like, so you can have a second set of weights on the outside (50 + 50#). Being inside, they are out-of-sight and technically slightly safer for wear on the axle/tranny. Nice.
  11. Nice looking 'newer' 42" rear-discharge mowing deck, looks in great shape.
  12. Check your tire pressure also, the cold Winter air can drop it 2–3# easily, consider 20# in them (may give an extra 1/2" height).
  13. Is your drive all concrete/asphalt or is it dirt/gravel? Is it flat or sloped? Chains can damage/scratch a drive very noticably, but they give great traction, especially on ice if you also have a lot of weight. Lugs (without weight) only do very well on gravel but not so well on a paved drive with ice (unless you have the weight). They may leave ruts in very soft wet dirt/grass if you happen to go off-drive. A Snowblower blows the snow some distance and does great on paved drives, but on gravel, it needs to be raised a little, but this puts more weight on the front, which is great for steering but actually pivots the rear up, lightening the back of the tractor and reduces traction (need a lot & lot of weight to balance this). Both of your sets of tires are narrow, which is good. The fluid and extra weight are excellent. Dually's would reduce traction on ice, and reduce your power. Up the tire pressure to 20# for Winter use, even in fluid-filled tires (20% air is in there), (a smaller 'footprint' ='s more traction/sq inch). For storage, best to keep tires up a little off concrete in the freezing Winter, like on a piece of thin wood, especially when they have heavy weight in/on them, to keep from freezing to the concrete and tearing rubber. Be concerned about steering; you need weight up front also to keep those wheels down while you are working. Tri-ribs, Lugs, or Chains will bite into the snow/ice for steering, if you also have weight up there; when the blade or Snowblower is in the down-working position, it basically takes all of its own weight off the front, reducing steering control. It is also possible to increase traction on turfs only by roughening up the rubber surface, a very coarse file can do this and some chemicals will "eat" the rubber surface a little, plus sharpening the forward-biting edge of the rubber (like 'tractor weight pullers' do). (This year, I'm trying out the 'Rubber Chains' with my Snowblower on asphalt –– The 4-link is all I could find, may have to order more rubber to make it into a smoother 2-link ride ?). Glen
  14. Actual size of the cut cookie will be 3" wide and 4.5" tall, and designed for a 1/4" thick cookie. Weight of the cutter will be just over 1oz. Will start working on it next month. The second 'edition' of the cutter which I will be using is slightly larger than the one in the video and has more detail (eye, chin & lugs going the correct way). Glen