GlenPettit

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GlenPettit last won the day on February 4 2015

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About GlenPettit

  • Rank
    Supporter, Vender
  • Birthday 08/04/1943

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    (Red Square) GlenPettit@WheelHorseForum.com
  • MSN
    (Home & PayPal) GlenPettit@icloud.com
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    http://glenpettit.wheelhorseforum.com
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    GlenPettit

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    RJ-55, RJ-58, 501, GT-14/FEL, C-101, C-141, C-161, (4) 312-8, 416-8, plus parters
  • favoritemodel
    Round Hoods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Eaton Rapids, MI
  • Occupation
    Retired (but busier than ever); former H.S. Voc. Printing Instr, & p/t M.S.U. instr in Pkg. Printing
  • Interests
    Family (2 daughters; 4 grandsons [triplets + single] & 1 granddaughter), Wheel Horses, Mold making & Casting (Wheel Horse parts), Organic Gardening, [Farm: Sheep, and Nut Trees], Engraving; Scrimshaw, travel.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Yes, we have those 'exact replacement' Springs, they are extra strong (in Venders section). Also, two of the Hardware Store Springs will certainly work, together, probably almost as well as the heavy original. Lowell Scholljegerdes in MN is making the "Flags", and a lot of other 'hard-to-find' WH parts, also check his listing of all of the replacement parts he has down in the Venders section ( or www.WheelHorseMan1000.com). Glen
  2. TSC stores have a nice 5/8" diameter by 10" long 'Eye Bolt' that works perfectly for this, it leaves a 71/2" space to fit onto the Tac-a-Matic nicely (measured between the nut/washer and its 'eye'). Looks nice, and is plated to reduce rusting. The regular 5/8" bolts most places have in stock seem to only go up to a 6" length, . . . or you could purchase a3 foot long 5/8" round rod, cut it to length and drill a hole on each end for a cotter pin.
  3. ActionHorse: Could you also post photos of the sides and rear of your 520, I would also like to see those side-lights and decals. Very nice looking tractor modifications, and your closeup photos and descriptions (thread subject) is very helpful & timely. Glen
  4. I hope I'm not repeating/reposting this, I just came across it, from our UKWheelHorseBloke, who just got a D200 over there in England: (there are more videos of him on the YouTube sidebar).
  5. Yes (and no), there's a big mechanical advantage ––– you're using the large lever on the left plus a strong 'helper spring' (and a 'flag') underneath, so just your left arm while sitting can raise the snowblower easily. Ask him to keep searching and keep a big eye open –– it's those little small parts that are often left behind that have become so valuable and hard to find, and even harder to reproduce, like the small 'flag' and 'Spring', etc.
  6. Usually those 2-piece Weights are designed so they could also mounted on the inside-side of your wheel if you like, so you can have a second set of weights on the outside (50 + 50#). Being inside, they are out-of-sight and technically slightly safer for wear on the axle/tranny. Nice.
  7. Nice looking 'newer' 42" rear-discharge mowing deck, looks in great shape.
  8. Check your tire pressure also, the cold Winter air can drop it 2–3# easily, consider 20# in them (may give an extra 1/2" height).
  9. Is your drive all concrete/asphalt or is it dirt/gravel? Is it flat or sloped? Chains can damage/scratch a drive very noticably, but they give great traction, especially on ice if you also have a lot of weight. Lugs (without weight) only do very well on gravel but not so well on a paved drive with ice (unless you have the weight). They may leave ruts in very soft wet dirt/grass if you happen to go off-drive. A Snowblower blows the snow some distance and does great on paved drives, but on gravel, it needs to be raised a little, but this puts more weight on the front, which is great for steering but actually pivots the rear up, lightening the back of the tractor and reduces traction (need a lot & lot of weight to balance this). Both of your sets of tires are narrow, which is good. The fluid and extra weight are excellent. Dually's would reduce traction on ice, and reduce your power. Up the tire pressure to 20# for Winter use, even in fluid-filled tires (20% air is in there), (a smaller 'footprint' ='s more traction/sq inch). For storage, best to keep tires up a little off concrete in the freezing Winter, like on a piece of thin wood, especially when they have heavy weight in/on them, to keep from freezing to the concrete and tearing rubber. Be concerned about steering; you need weight up front also to keep those wheels down while you are working. Tri-ribs, Lugs, or Chains will bite into the snow/ice for steering, if you also have weight up there; when the blade or Snowblower is in the down-working position, it basically takes all of its own weight off the front, reducing steering control. It is also possible to increase traction on turfs only by roughening up the rubber surface, a very coarse file can do this and some chemicals will "eat" the rubber surface a little, plus sharpening the forward-biting edge of the rubber (like 'tractor weight pullers' do). (This year, I'm trying out the 'Rubber Chains' with my Snowblower on asphalt –– The 4-link is all I could find, may have to order more rubber to make it into a smoother 2-link ride ?). Glen
  10. Actual size of the cut cookie will be 3" wide and 4.5" tall, and designed for a 1/4" thick cookie. Weight of the cutter will be just over 1oz. Will start working on it next month. The second 'edition' of the cutter which I will be using is slightly larger than the one in the video and has more detail (eye, chin & lugs going the correct way). Glen
  11. Hope to have some of these made for the Big Show next June in PA, actual size is about 3" tall ––– this is a video on the detail involved in programming a CNC with Vector Art to control the printer, and then the last part is actually building-forming the "Mother" original cookie cutter in wire plastic. I hope to mold and cast some in my epoxy-resin and to keep the cost down to $10-12 @, have to make lots of test before marketing. The first original part can get expensive to draw/program/make, but way too hard to create-carve by hand, probably nearly impossible without CNC..
  12. The Idler Pulley keeps tension on the belt so it does not slip, but the spring keeping the pulley in contact with the belt might have lost tension. Increase that tension (remove 1-2 loops of the Spring to shorten/tighten it, add a second helper spring, or just replace it). Probably –– going up slight slopes it would slow even more, almost to a stop. Your (1985) 208 is over 30 years old, that spring is under tension all the time when not in use, may be time to replace. The belt could also be glazed, "smooth, hard"; which would cause it to slip, can be cleaned, as with the pulleys also.
  13. After last year and four-time already this year (3 hours each time), only minor wear (5%) on the one edge of this nylon blade ($20): (I'm sold on this for an asphalt drive, quite, very easy to drill, very little wear –– have not used on gravel directly, edge was run high). (at this rate, the two edges may last 10 years: in the pix you see a 20# lead bar temporally hanging on the mule mount, both the front and rear tires have Rim-Guard fluid inside, the weight and tri-rib tires greatly help control steering, blade has 2 upright corner markers, Silicone on blade face).
  14. Weight, weight, weight! If those Ag-Lug tires were filled with fluid (like RV anti-freeze or Rim-Guard) and had weights on them, they would have gotten the job done, your lugs could hold 6-7 gal (60#+) each, plus a 50# weight, then they would easily have done the job on your ground, ––– but on hard smooth ice and up a slight sloop, probably not. Chains on your Turf tires are much better on hard smooth ice, (but not deep 12" snow) but then weight in/on the Turf tires would make them much better. You want as little contact on the ground as you can have, fewer square inches on the ground gives you more pounds per square inch = more bite = more traction, and extra weight will greatly increase that traction. With hard smooth Ice, especially if on a sloop,the chains will dig into the ice and grab it, much better than a Lug Tire can, but then on rough ground and snow, I like the Weighted Lug Tires much better. All depends on the situation. That big load of coal looks like a heavy load, but not for a Ranger. (PS: up your tire pressure in the Winter, to 20#). Glen