Jump to content

Woodsman

Members
  • Content count

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Woodsman

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    WI

Recent Profile Visitors

654 profile views
  1. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    After I read Gary's last note, things made more sense. The tractor was starting, but only as I let off the key, then it slowly lumbered to life - as it wasn't getting spark during the crank. Today I printed off his instructions, pulled all connections and started over. It fired up nicely and everything works and battery seems to holding a charge. (My ammeter is dead and time will tell unless you can suggest a test for it). I would swear this is the configuration I started with before points were grounding out. I did replace two more wires during my panic and perhaps that was my issue all along. It seems like a lot of babble on my part for such a simple issue as following instructions. I did contact the Toro dealer I got the switch from and he told me the old switches were marked with an I on the ignition terminal, but that the new style is marked with an M, yet work with battery ignition. At least that point has been made. I still have an issue with starting the motor close to TDC despite valve adjustment but I'll thoroughly check out the engine forum before going arm-waving-wild on that topic. Thanks again to all of you for all the help! -Woodsman
  2. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    Gary and wallfish are both a step ahead of me. First of all, it does start and runs with the configuration I provided. Unfortunately, the ammeter doesn't move and the lights flicker. Battery is 12V both with the machine running and off, so it is not charging. Apparently I spoke too soon and there's still some tinkering to do. I was just happy to finally get spark. I shouldn't have jumped the gun. Ugh.
  3. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    Well, I have some preliminary results to share. Everyone turn to his right and pat the back of the fella' next to you because it's been a group effort, for sure. Lots of good information from all of you and I've learned far more about this ignition than I thought I'd ever have to. I've got it connected and points are not grounding out. To top it off, I have a nice spark and there's been no fire yet. The trick was all in the connections and de-mystifying the terminals. The extra terminals on the PTO & light switch made it a little difficult but poke enough with a test light and it seems to make sense. For future reference, here they are on this tractor. The letters in parenthesis are from the drawing Uncle Gary provided. B (large pole unmarked on this switch) - Battery (ammeter) G(L) - Lights/PTO M (I)- Rectifier A (R)- ignition(coil) S(S)- Start I've yet to button it up and more adventure may yet lay ahead. For now, this mystery is solved and you all deserve a cold beverage of choice. I'm choosing a cold bottle of Busch light and toasting the great group that makes up RedSquare.
  4. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    The ignition on this tractor has the start, run, & run 2 position. When it's in Run 2, you can activate the PTO and lights with separate toggle switches. It's all stock with no modifications. The connections on the old cylinder were sketchy for some time. I'd also had a problem when trying to crank from TDC and that may have heated things up. It's also possible I may have caused the melt down when I left the battery charger on for too long. I can't recall if I left the key on but I do know it will burn points so I have to wonder. I tried the suggested continuity test and none of the poles will ground out on the base on either cylinder. However, I did find a couple of differences between the two cylinders. In the run position, the old runs with A+B but the new cylinder runs A+B+M. Position 2 (PTO & lights) on the old is B+G and A+M but on the new one all four are continuous. You guys have all been great and I really appreciate all the assistance and time you've taken to reply! I will post a follow-up when I figure it out.
  5. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    The old switch did have an M on the missing blade. I'd marked the side of the cylinder with a sharpie for all blades before I broke the M off. I picked up the new switch off eBay from a reputable Toro dealer. It came in a sealed Toro package. My test light indicates I have it connected properly, yet I keep getting continuity between the open points when it's all together. Im about ready to try a simple hotwire to see if the problem persists.
  6. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    Here's the new & old switches
  7. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    Yes the old switch was original and worked well until I broke it. It had all the same markings on the polls as the new switch. This is on a 1973 16 Auto.
  8. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    Thanks for the schematic. After looking deep in my files it was the one I was using. I'm still puzzled by the switch, though. The manual is missing the page with original part number for the cylinder and the 92-6785 I purchased has the exact same markings as the old ignition.
  9. Tearing my hair (and the wires) out.

    Thanks for the replies. I had wondered about the M pole on the switch but had the same markings on the original switch. It turned out to be the one I broke off, as it was burned and corroded. I've been unable to find the manual on this tractor and have been referencing a C-160 schematic instead.
  10. Hi Guys, A few weeks ago, I had an electrical issue with my machine. The wiring at the switch was all melted, along with the points themselves being a charred mess. One at a time, I rewired any suspicious wires and installed new points and condensor. Ignition goes to + on the coil, with points and condensor on the - side. After all this I still had a no-spark situation. I started to look at the ignition switch and ended up breaking it in the process. I replaced it with a 92-6785 and wired it to some instructions I found on this site. This is a points tractor and I used the M prong on the switch for this connection. My coil was loose at the top and leaking so I replaced it with a new one. So here's my problem: I'm still at a no spark and found that even when the breaker points are open, I have continuity between the two sides. Unplugging the lead to the coil resolves the continuity, but of course now I don't have voltage. This situation occurs with and without the positive terminal on the battery connected. I now turn to the professionals and ask for guidance. Thanks in advance for any help! John
  11. I have a short-chute single stage blower with the 'spool type" crank. I put a new cable on and action is good in both directions. My problem is that when I blow snow the chute always wants to spin to the left. I'm tired of trying to hold the crank in position and wondered if anyone has dealt with this issue?
  12. C-161 Automatic

    I recently sold a very similar set-up for $400. That was for the 16hp tractor, 42" deck, & blower & chains.
  13. This post has perfect timing as I just purchased a 40" blade that needed the lift link. Joe, your PDF file is perfect. I reccomend it goes into the FAQ's. Thank you!
  14. Thanks for all the compliments. Here it is now with decals and deck. http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa451/WoodsmanWheelhorse/IMG_2487.jpg]. http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa451/WoodsmanWheelhorse/IMG_2492.jpg].
  15. Mid Mount Grader Blade?

    I've been looking for one of these for six months and they seem pretty elusive.
×