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dgjks6

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About dgjks6

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    Akron, Ohio
  1. so I just bought a 37 inch deck. The one I had before had the double v mule drive and six sided belt. This one has a regular belt and mule drive. It looks like the two front pulleys on the deck were changed. They were both flat. We hooked up the deck and it worked. The guy said it came this way. Did they change the set up?
  2. Been a while since I posted. Life got on the way. So I rebuilt a 1981 c-85 last year. Now, it is not charging the battery. The ammeter, she no move no more. It did after the rebuild, but since stopped. So what is step 1? As an aside. Sometimes the tractor quits running after 10 minutes then restarts after charging the battery. Are these related.
  3. k181 rebuild

    Yep its done. Runs like a champ, but keeps running for a while when I turnthe key off. Going to recheck the timing. I restored the tractor to run the snowblower this winter, so its been siiting all summer waiting for action.
  4. deiseling after stop

    got my work cut out for me tomorrow. the best part about the restoration I did is that now I actually understand what you guys are saying. As far as running smooth, it starts easily and after choke closed it surges for about 10 seconds and then runs perfect at 3500 rpm's and will run all day long. However, it does give off more heat than my 312. I have only run 2 taks of gas through her so far, so I doubt anything can have built up so far.
  5. Well, got the c-85 running perfect. Tried to mow a few times earlier, but kept getting stuckin all the mud. It was finally dry enough and I mowed. I learned a few things: 1 - 36 inch gives a great cut, but the grass can't be too long 2 - make sure you tighten the bolt that holds on the mule drive cover on or it will fall off and you will mow over it Now for the question - when I turn it off, it keeps going. Any ideas on what to try? I heard in the pst this was caused by carbon build up in the exhuast port, but I know for a fact there is none there.
  6. I restored a c-85 with rattle cans. I removed the foot pad and saw new, unfaded paint underneath. I used this as my test and "new red" was the exact match.
  7. 312-8 mower

    post some pictures if there is no tag if you can. if you can't, at least the model of the tractor. Wheel horse never made a 44 inch deck for the classic type tractor so you may have a different model, or more likely its a 42 inch deck.
  8. I know this is a wheel horse site, but I gotta suggest this. If it is just for mowing and you got $2000, get a new zero turn. The amount of time you will save will be huge. I don't know much about the xi's, but everyone that posts about them seem to like them a lot.
  9. Help with a 520

    I refer to my myself as the expert in rear axle acquisition. I broke an axle on an 8 speed and looked high and low and could not find a good one. Time and patience payed off and now I have a supply of them. Your best bet is to look on the auction site. When I was looking for mine, all I could find was axles like you are looking for. But as fate would have it, now the axles for sale are not the ones you need. It helps to know what other models use your transaxle. For example the 516's and 518's had different "transmissions", but the same "transaxle". Right now there is a parts trans on an auction that would work on yours for $100. But they all seem to be pick up only.
  10. B-80

    hope this helps. The newer parts diagrams are labeled better:
  11. KT17 engine mounts?

    Looking at the parts diagrams, the 17hp has the same mounts, but a different plate. I have seen them from time to time on ebay so you can 1 - wait 2 - make your own 3 - but the correct one (about $70)
  12. Front mower deck carrier

    The last one I saw went for $400. I have one, but have found little use for it.
  13. Nope, twisted it. I was able to do it by hand, but TT said you could put a 2x4 thorugh the steering wheel for better leverage. I did end up with vice marks on the steering shaft, but otherwise no problems.
  14. looks great. TT gave me this idea:
  15. K181 kohler problem/question

    Here goes from memory. The S is for electric start. The A is for special oil pan. As far as the shop, on the first visit I would just have them measure everything to find out what they need to bore it to, and thye can check the valves and the crank journal and they will tell you what aize of everything to get. You can buy complete rebuild kits with standard rods and pistons all the way to 30 over on the bore, but they can only go 10 under on the crank. There are guys here who sell the rebuild kits. Good luck! :hide:
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