Anglo Traction

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Anglo Traction last won the day on August 23 2013

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About Anglo Traction

  • Rank
    Senior Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    72 Raider 12
    74 C-120
  • favoritemodel
    Round Hoods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Surrey,England(UK).
  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Interests
    Model Engineering and anything mechanical I can get working again. Skill level exceeds ability to create fire by rubbing 2 sticks together.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Naah!, leave it as is Alan, just looks like your on the same stuff as Einstein . Good to see your li'Ie 'D' project on here.
  2. Hello Garry, or should I call you Oracle !. I'm always amazed at your comprehensive knowledge and access to all of these WH records and your work on the WH Yahoo Group . Certainly merits perusal and to be mindful of correct installation of the Races. I like to do things 'By the Book'. Also to acknowledge what Joe (OILUJ52) mentioned above. I agree with the principle of regular careful greasing and I'll continue to do that on the other 2 Spindles on the Deck until they show signs of giving up, where I'll convert them also. Regards.
  3. Hello Des, I live on the same Rock as you (UK), I certainly agree with the Guys re the adapted Oil Pan on your replaced engine, which, going by the colour is from either a Generator, Compressor or Pump. The Oil Pan you posted a link to is correct, but you might consider one that comes with the proper Oil Drain unit as well...like this- -LINK- I think I have a spare Lower PTO Hoop Bracket somewhere if you need it. Also Oil Pan Gasket and probably any Pan Bolts you may need. Here's a Pic of what the Oil pan looks like and note the engine overhang on the Frame that Texas Todd mentioned above- Also where the Oil Drain Unit(usually) goes- Note that this is a 74 model, where yours is 78/79, but similar layout mechanically. Happy to help and if you need anything, drop me a PM.
  4. Thanks Gents for the quick response. I felt it would be better to leave them double shielded and blank of the grease point, so I will go with that and pre-grease insides during assembly. As for the Hi-Pro Key removal Don, yes, I have the Wheel Horse Service bulletin #429, but need to obtain the 3/4" Free Running nuts and the Lock Washers to replace the Nyloc Nuts fitted. I'll do that another time. I also want to locate a complete Spindle Ass'y for a spare unit, but little chance over here in UK. Thanks again.
  5. I'm an advocate of setting the timing statically, that is using the Timing Marks on the Flywheel and adjusting the points accordingly- On an old set up, if you set the points to 20 thou on the firing stroke, it can be way out. I did a test on one of my engines and found it was firing almost on TDC !. So it depends on how much wear on things like Points, Breaker Rod and Cam Lobe can alter it. Set it to the Flywheel marks and it will be spot on and sound so much better when running. Well worth the extra effort.
  6. UK based- In the process of refurbishing a Deck (05-36MR01) which is covered in a thread in this -LINK- . I decided one of the Spindles (centre) had the slightest sign of resistance, so I pulled it apart. It was a mess in terms of botched workmanship/treatment in the past and took a lot of refinishing of the spindle etc. Anyway, I have now received my new Bearing stock (yes- made in USA) and all parts ready for re assembly- So before I proceed, I would like to know from seasoned Deck Refurbishers, Do you remove one of the 2 shields so that the original greasing system can be employed, or do you fit them with double shields in place (sealed for life) and blank off the Zerk points?......(I could not obtain single shield bearings). Also, I did search for answers on here, but found no relevant Threads on this. Thanks in advance.
  7. Well I managed to blow the original 20amp fuse on my 72 Raider 12 today . I obviously didn't push the Bullet connector in far enough into the Head Light connx'n Block. Had to drain/remove the Fuel Tank for access. Glad I fitted a Drain/Prime system ( LINK) to both Tractors, as it was ready to go again in double quick time. I also made the fuse(s) more accessible.
  8. Mmm!, wonder if they conform to Fig 1 H-200-C of this list?. -LINK- ......but I have been wrong before
  9. A contribution from East of the Pond.........you've probably seen them before!.
  10. Hi Rex, Good to see you posting on a project. Very intriguing. Little to go on so far. I'm gonna say it could be something like a Crop Straddling Tractor...High axle, large wheels and as you say being a Farmer, I suspect you'd build something to have a practical use and that it has to work for you?. Now tell me I'm a million miles away from being right . Regards
  11. I've only got a 72/74 & 1980 Nbr 26 (12hp) Carbs, All have a measurement of 1 13/16" between horizontal hole centres- Without looking up a 60s engine number and searching the Parts Manual for a different Carb Part number, I would have to say as a guess that #26 Kohler Carbs are the same........unless it is not a Kohler Carb. I Think you are right to pull and replace with an unmolested one. Regards
  12. No problem Carlos you are ok. (is made by eating molienda?/grinding the valve stem ends?) . Yes that is correct. Yes, hoping only emery paste will make the Valve Seats good for you. Regards
  13. I wouldn't dare correct Sir!.....all good to me. Only to say to Carlos.... if the Exhaust Valve Seat is damaged or badly worn,, they can be replaced. the procedure is shown in the Kohler K series Manual and here is a link to a listing- EXHAUST VALVE Seat Insert Regards
  14. Call me weird, but I have a hankering for quality tools, the older the better. You have a great collection there Ed. Most of my tooling is inherited from my Father who worked on Aircraft from Apr 1939 - 85, so I have great affinity with the tools and I take great care of them. I also have many woodworking tools of his and are all kept as sharp as new. I'm making Chests for them at the moment. I hope my Son will take them on after me. Regards, Richard.
  15. Ditto all of the above posts of the Guy's principles and methods. I also tend to be meticulous with checking fit/wear or Go/No go on any engine etc. I also set myself challenges and measure by 'Feel' with inside/outside calipers, then take measurements from those. I then compare with Hole Gauges and Mic's etc to see how close I can discern accuracy by feel. I have a number of items I use regularly for many jobs (Hobby), some of which are shown below. The Lever type Dial Indicator is 69 years old and still good for 5/10,000ths of an inch, or better. I also use it for setting Techy Timing BTDC of the Piston. The Engineer's Blue (paste) assists with highlighting High spots or wear points on Bearing/Crank Journals etc. Nothing in this pic is less than 30 years old- Like most Tools, you get what you pay for and it depends how often you will have a use for them that will dictate what you pay. If you know the source, you could also buy secondhand and obtain high quality measurement tooling for less money. Whatever you get, enjoy using them and get those engines running smooth and sweet.