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privateer

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About privateer

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    c120

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warwick, NY
  1. 48" attach o matic deck

    Garry, it's a 48". It has everything you describe. Adjuster on left side, reinforcement plate on topside, belt covers screws bolt into plate. I see the stress cracks from the bottom of the deck around one of the spindles. Your knowledge with wheel horses is unbelievable. You've helped me more than enough over the years with your write-ups. Thanks for that... With that said, I'm not going to worry about it. I decided to rebuild the deck since I had no offers. changing out two bearing sets and the double pulley from spare parts I have hanging around. I'll be good as new for a few more years
  2. 48" attach o matic deck

    I need a 48" deck for my C series tractor. Mine has seen better days as the shell has a stress crack around one of the spindles. I really want to keep this tractor working but the current deck is no longer safe. I'm hoping one of my fellow local WH collectors can part with a 48" deck they have in storage or no longer use. Thanks for looking! Rich from Orange County, NY.
  3. K301 running issues - stumped? - need help please

    update on why the motor wont run unless choke fully closed. Fuel starved! It ended up being a weak manual fuel pump. I initially checked and ruled the pump out because it was pulsing out fuel. I tore it apart and there was a piece of rubber stuck in one of the flappers. Reinstalled. Runs like a top! Thanks for all the help and suggestions!
  4. K301 running issues - stumped? - need help please

    Well, installed carb back on tractor.. Still the same problem. As soon as I open up the choke it stalls. It will run choke closed at idle and will run and stay running when increasing throttle about half way. Could a bad intake gasket cause these symptoms?? perhaps the sheet tin is causing a gap allowing a vacuum leak. I will buy another gasket. I noticed they make a thicker gasket to prevent the carb from heating up too much. I will also gravity feed the carb to eliminate any fuel delivery problem. weak manual pump, clogged filter, clogged tank screen, Boy this is frustrating. any suggestions?
  5. K301 running issues - stumped? - need help please

    installed new plug removed and tore apart carb, soaked and blew out all orifices, reassembled Will install back on tractor today, keeping my fingers crossed. If not, a new carb will be on order. Thanks for all the advice so far
  6. K301 running issues - stumped? - need help please

    Thanks for the replies and help. The tractor stopped running without warning last fall. The in line clear fuel filter is like new. I had a short time yesterday to tinker. I cleaned the points with emory cloth, pulled the plug to check spark. Saw a nice blue spark. Unscrewed the high main jet. Sprayed carb cleaner down the sump tube. Readjusted to 2 1/2 turns. It fired right up with closed choke and minimum throttle. I let it run and warm up for 10 minutes with closed choke and idle throttle. Ran Ok, governor searched and worked properly every so often. I used my finger to cover the two holes on the choke blade. Felt a suction, the engine increased rpm's a bit. The second I open the choke the engine quits. I am going to replace the H10C plug later. Pull the carb and check again. I'm guessing a piece of rubber is stuck somewhere. Could the bowl screw be messing with the intake of fuel up the main tube? By tightening the bolt too much?
  7. my c-120 auto doesn't want to run unless the choke is closed with full throttle. the second I take the choke off it stalls. I've had the carb off a few times now this spring. It's clean as a whistle. idle needle looks good the 4 high speed needle holes are clean of debris both needles adjusted to 2 turns no play in the throttle body shaft changed out the float valve needle and seat last year new fuel baffle shield and gaskets. float is lever with carb body Carb seems to fit tight on the motor. Removed gas line, gas will gravity flow on it's own when hose goes below tank. Cranked the engine with the fuel line in a clear bottle. Get a small fuel surge every engine revolution. Could it be a weak sparkplug causing this problem? clean the points, new condenser? I'm stumped, where should I be looking to get this horse back to work? Thanks, Rich
  8. 48" SD deck pulley

    Hi all, my tension pulley blew up and ruined my belt and in the process it took out one of the spindle pulleys. The deck is on a C-165 which puts the deck as a mid 80's. Question on replacement parts. I need two outside pulleys. The pulleys are 5" stamped not cast that are 3/4" keyed spindles. Can anyone tell me the part # for this pulley? Or a suitable replacement? I tried several schematics. They all show square or double D spindles. I also read somewhere that a wheel horse bulletin was posted years ago to eliminate the keyway and just use a lock washer and nut to tighten the pulley. Did this method work and Is this still the case? Thanks for all your help. Anyone have these spare parts for this deck?
  9. Thanks for the link and part #. My plow blade has rubber sandwiched between the wear bar and the plow. The heavy duty rubber makes contact with the driveway. I read somewhere that folks suggested using a horse mat and cut to width as a replacement. is there a toro replacement part number for this item? Thanks
  10. Decided to fire up and run the C-165 the other day to get her ready for winter plow duty and it had a noticable vibration. I took a look at what's left of the rubber motor mounts. Cracked and/or missing. Anyone know where I can pick up new rubber mounts or suggestions for a fix. Can i use shock absorber mounts as a replacement? Also, the snow blade could use some new rubber? I believe its a 48" rear mount. Any suggestion on part number or where I can buy a replacement? Thanks everyone! Rich
  11. 656 DECK PTO BELT ADJUSTMENT

    Nice stack on that techy. I have a 656 with the HH60 and I believe a 32" rd deck and snowthrower collecting dust in the shed. I 'll take a look to check out the setup. I know mine is all original.
  12. Picked up a few parts at the Toro dealer in town. New three way starter relay, head and fuel pump gaskets and a new plug. Put it all back together. It fired right up, trans works in both directions and the hydraulic arm works. Pretty much my issue from the beginning was bad grounding. A new coat of paint and it will be ready for some lawn duty. Thanks again for all the help!
  13. My starter relay is a 4 prong relay with no wire attached to the ground tab. It looks like it never had a wire attached so I overlooked it as being a useless stud. I was wrong. I made a short ground wire from chassis to the negative tab. Went to turn the key, still nothing. I got my 12+ voltage to the positive tab when I turn the key. I can't seem to energize the starter wire. My guess the contact plunger is not working to energize the starter contacts within the relay. I will go forward and purchase a new starter relay solonoid. I guess any 3 or 4 tab starter relay will work. Correct? I now know the correct wiring of both units. I jumped the starter and got the engine running. Yippee! She ran fine at idle with the ammeter needle moving to 13. I let it run for 15 minutes or so to get up to temperature. Went to give it some throttle, it bogs and sputters and I noticed the metal head gasket needs to be replaced as combustion is finding it's way out. I tried to adjust the high idle screw, no luck. Could the head gasket cause this bog and sputter problem? I thought I did a good job cleaning out the high idle holes with a wire from a steel brush. Any suggestions for the engine bog problem? I'll pull the high idle screw and reclean. What else should I look for? This machine is giving me a wheen horse tutorial. Everywhere I turn I have an issue to deal with but I'm making progress. I just hope the auto trans and hydraulics works when I get to that part of the tractor. Thanks for helping
  14. I followed the test above and the starter won't go. I moved the neg to another part of the chassis and bingo the engine wants to start. Guess the 8" neg wire is no good. You guys are good Strong spark at the points area too. Fuel pump issue resolved with good pump flow. Little confused, it turned over previously hooked up the same way. Now, it still wont start on the key. I damaged the starter relay, didn't I? Can I use any three prong units out there for sale or do you recommend a certain unit to install? Thanks, I feel like I'm finally making some progress on this machine!
  15. SOI, I'm concentrating on the relay. I'll take it off later and clean up the chassis ground and jump it first to the safety switch like you mentioned above and then a heavier gauge wire directly to the starter terminal. I'll add another direct battery ground to the lift point like sparky said. This machine sat out for many years and needs to shake off the rust. I ran the test like you said with the key in off position and jumped the safety switch terminal. I did not hear a click at all or no starter movement. The relay seemed to be working properly until I got my first engine cough after I emory clothed the points better to get spark. Now when I turn the key to start their is no juice to the starter wire terminal but the juice is there to the safety switch wire or in my case a direct wire to the key terminal. Thanks for the guidance and help men. Appreciate it very much. Rich
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