smoreau

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smoreau last won the day on February 23 2014

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About smoreau

  • Rank
    Senior Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/24/1974

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    http://www.redoyourhorse.com

    Posted Image
  • favoritemodel
    Kohler powered!!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Frankenmuth MI
  • Interests
    wh tractors , and building , fabing , welding things

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  1. There are some nice carbon adjusting tool kits fairly cheep on evilbay. I bought a 4 tool kit that has worked on all the ones I have. Around $10 shipped to the door
  2. Welcome and Terry help with that at redo your horse at the bottom of this post Just click on the box and it will take you to his sight
  3. Cutting new keyways in the axles is not for the novist machinest. They are very hard and will makes key cutter sing putting them in. I had the keys cut in my 875 in the same spot as the originals. The key was like a stock key with 3/4 wings, custom made. Worked great and the seals are still replacible. Best of all is no play with the original hubs.
  4. 1 1/8. Axles. An handle a LOT of weight! Look at smaller pickups like s10's rangers etc. There axles are about the same size and are surface hardened like the wheel horse axles bearings are larger but the shafts are about the same size. Biggest difference are the tires are more protected on a pickup then on a tractor. When both times I broke a rear axle on a horse it was because I backed into a tree and a brick wall. On a vehical this never happens because the box or fenders are in the way. That kind of impact has the entire weight of the tractor pushing on one axle. It may not brake of at that point, but could cause it to crack and then fail with another smaller impact. Both of mine had this and rust was present were they broke off. Now think about this, add lots off weight to the rims to make the tire heavier. Say 100# per wheel. Now plow some snow and hit a hidden post or chunk of concrete and it stops you instantly. That weight is now putting a lot of force on that axle in a way it was not designed to. Loaders want around 300# of counter weight on the back end of the tractor, that's what I run on a axle that has over 1150 hours on it. No problems yet and no leaks yet. You add weight for traction, the more weight the more traction you get. If you add it to the wheels or to that back end, just be aware you are adding more stress to the axles and the morecarfull you need to be. Most axles will handle it no problem. Just be aware and you shold never have a issue. Most axle failures have two sides to the story.
  5. To order a hitch call Tom are 989-213-2690. Just a reminder that these hitches are made to order. Tom and I both have jobs and families, time is limited, but you will get you hitch as soon as we can get it to you. You will not be disipoited in the hitch when you receive it. They will hold more weight then any other hitch on the market and I can say for a fact that you will brake the tractor before you brake this hitch. I have a 5 foot landscaping rake category 1 three point and a winch to raise it on this hitch. I had to add weight to the front of my V blade to keep the front tires on the ground.
  6. To help with sreering, I use #50 roller chains on the front tires to make a rib that bights into the snow and ice. Makes a huge difference in steering.
  7. If its worse on the inner pulley, then your belt is on wrong on the tentioner or the clutch is slipping.
  8. This how I built mine and I use it all year. I have to say it still works great and is a huge time saver and very glad I built it. I still get offers for this tractor and still will notsell it. Just too useful for my needs. Been thinking on making some moods this winter to this project if time permits. My issue is the blade sticks out so far in the front that it hits the ground on small hills digging up the grass. Needs to go higher, but I'm limited to the front axle height. More to come.
  9. Finally got the loader painted this last fall. I had a good friend that owed me some $ and he just so happens to do sand blasting and painting so the loader got removed and the 3 point. I also had my dump trailer done at the same time. here are the pics
  10. Some more pics
  11. Best degreaser I have found is any light mineral oil, WD-40, PB Blaster, any auto trand fluid, diesel will work and a scrub brush. It will soften up the greasy mess to the point that a garden hose wimm be as good as a power washer. If you ever had really dirty greasy hands and remember how hard it was to get it all off, tried every hand cleaner on the market with poor results. One day I sprayed some WD-40 on my hands and then washed them with just regular bar soap and my hands were very clean! That's what lead me to using light oils for degreaser from now on. It will make a mess were you do this and can cause a hole new thing to clean if your not carefull. I use a old drop cloth and hang it up to dry when done.
  12. Eaton in my opinion is a stronger axle hands down. Larger axles, stronger lift pressures, much stronger diff, and easier neutral adjustments. I have both and have been into both foe one reason or other. As for changing one for another, the thought has crossed my mind and you would need a doner tractor for all the linkage parts and parking brake would be pain to get to work like it should. I do use my parking brake all the time and has saved me from more runaways then I want to talk about.
  13. Belly mounted farm PTO to run smaller PTO equipment on the farm
  14. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/29935-hydraulic-v-dozer-blade-project/#comment-251924 Check this link out
  15. I had a nice grader blade that was great to do the driveway. But sold it to a buddy after getting a 5' landscaping rake. But for the avarge WH owner, the grader blade is a great tool to own.