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jebbear

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About jebbear

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    856

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  • Location
    McClellandtown, PA
  1. Eagle Watchers

    Seriously, these are amazing birds. We have a nest near where I live in SW PA that me and the Mrs. like to keep an eye on. Last year in the spring the nest blew down out of the tree in one of our high wind storms so we kind of thought that was the end of our entertainment to have the opportunity to watch these amazing creatures. Not so. Sure enough, we checked back this year and the next was totally reconstructed, in the same tree none the less. Not sure how many eggs are in it this year since we don't have a live feed, but when we checked, Mama eagle (or Papa) was sitting on the nest. Here is a photo I took of the happy couple from last year.
  2. Eagle Watchers

    Whatever it was, must have some brass ones to take on Mama Eagle over an egg!
  3. ? on demise of Wheel horse

    I think you guys all have nailed it. Bottom line, we have become a throw away society. People just can't fathom spending a lot of money for a quality product when they can buy junk and just toss it when its worn out. I think today's generation just doesn't have any concept of laying on the ground, changing oil, greasing fittings, changing parts, sharpening blades, etc. They all want easy. Blade gets dull, throw the tractor away because it is probably shot at that point too. It is kind of ironic that the new generation constantly hounds and preaches about being "green" and protecting our planet, not at all considering all of the sad consequences that excess environmental controls have cost every one of us. Yet this same mindset of people think absolutely nothing about throwing mega tons after mega tons of "stuff" into landfills every day. Sad. I, like most of you guys on this forum are probably the last of the fix-it generation. There are few things that "irk" me more, than having to throw away anything, be it a tool, an appliance, a mechanical device, only because a 25 cent part to fix it is no longer available. I guess that is how and why I learned to self fabricate what I need these days to at least attempt to keep something running and out of the landfills. Just look around, how many "repair shops" for anything, be it tractors, lawn mowers, radios, TV's, appliances, etc. are still in business today? I could go on and on about this topic, but I'm sure I would be preaching to the choir with you guys.
  4. Wow, talk about being late for the party, I just noticed your thread & will be hitching along for the ride! I guess I sometimes get too bogged down with my own rebuild & kind of forget to look around at what others are doing. My bad. Anyway, looking good and you're making great progress!
  5. My 856 Project

    I didn't understand this design either, kind of why I asked. It seems that any amount of adjustment by changing holes would be so minimal that it makes you wonder why it is even there. I would think that any adjustment could be adequately made on the opposite end of the rod where the threaded section is, along with the adjustment at the brake band. I thought maybe it was for different tractor applications, but then again, how much difference could it make. Just seems odd that the Wheel Horse engineers would put so many options in this area and left so many other things on the tractor that they could have provided for some type of adjustment.
  6. My 856 Project

    Still no resolution to the lathe issue, so until I figure out what to do I thought I would go back to where I left off before with the bronze bearings (I bounce around and multi-task a lot ). Finished up the front axle, spindles, and pivot pin & pressed in the bearings: Here is what I did where the steering shaft originally went directly through the steel support in the frame. I reamed the hole in the frame to accept a 3/4" x 7/8" x 1/2" flange bearing. Then (I don't know if this was really necessary but added it anyway), I fabricated a steel bracket to kind of hold the flange bearing in place since the frame was only about 1/4" thick where the bearing went through. The two holes were already in the frame, so it was just a matter of adding a couple of bolts to hold it in. I didn't press this one in yet until I can strip and prep the frame for painting. The primer is just a quick rattle can misting for now to keep it from rusting. Next was the rear of the frame where the clutch idler/pulley shaft goes through the frame. this one took (2) 1/2" x 5/8" x 1/2" flange bearings. Again, these are not installed yet until the frame is prepped. Next came the lift lever where it goes through the hoodstand assembly. Couldn't do much with the bearing block that was already mounted on the lever, but it actually didn't have a lot of play in it anyway. Seemed like all of the wear was on the opposite end (right side) where it went through the hoodstand. This one took a 1" x 1-1/4" x 3/4" flange bearing, which I may need to trim the length a little once it is actually pressed in. In the second photo, you'll notice that I also had to re-fabricate and weld the little threaded tab that holds the belt guard. And finally the thing that I have been kind of putting off for fear of ruining, but all seemed to come out OK in the end, was that angled steering support block. It took a lot of "finagling" to say the least in order to get the set-up and angle correct in the drill press. I even reground my 7/8" drill bit to more of a 135° angle because it seemed to want to over-bore the hole when I started drilling. Unfortunately, the new bearing was still not as snug as I would have liked with a press fit, so I cheated a little with a thin coat of JB-Weld. It's plenty snug now, but I hope the next guy that comes after me has a torch if he ever needs to replace that bearing again!This one took a 3/4" x 7/8" x 3/4" straight bearing since a flange would interfere with the pinion gear. I left it slightly long for now until I assemble the whole thing, until I see how well the whole thing fits together when I assemble, then I'll just take a file to it if need be. I also installed a straight bearing in the lower portion of the block where the fan gear shaft goes through, 3/4" x 7/8" x 1/2". What I actually did for these (2) bearings was purchased an extra 3/4" x 7/8" x 1-1/4" (same as I used in the spindles) and cut this one to make both of these bearings. That's about all I have new for now. If anyone is interested, I made up a little spreadsheet with all of the bearings that I have been using that are crossed referenced with McMaster-Carr stock numbers. I mainly did this for myself so it wasn't like building a jigsaw puzzle, not remembering which bearing went where from the ones I ordered, but you are all welcome to the info if you want it. Oh, I do have one more question, maybe its a dumb one, but I'll ask anyway. On the brake pedal, there are three holes where the brake linkage rod is attached to only one. I assume that these are variable to set the proper pedal movement, but which one is the correct one to use? Mine was currently in the bottom hole (see arrow in photo below), but that's not saying it is the correct one. Didn't know if these different holes were for different applications or if it was just a personal preference choice for the operator to set the pedal where desired? The reason I ask, I need to install a little flange bearing in which ever hole is the right one and I don't plan on pressing one in all three.
  7. My 856 Project

    Thanks for the lead Sarge, that looks like it could be a very interesting place to follow. Maybe some day I can try to fix up the lathe like I'm trying to do to the Wheel Horse, not that I need another project at the moment! As far as the frame & dimensions of the motor, I'm sure that I won't be able to be too picky and still be affordable as long as I'm able to adapt another one someway. The way the motor mounts on the lathe, it should give me a lot of wiggle room to make something work.
  8. My 856 Project

    Thanks, @WHX14 on the dog points. You're absolutely correct on the breakage point, right where the hex ended. Hopefully, maybe the stainless steel one that I got will have good durability. I used the original 3/4" length, but as I mentioned above, I constantly miked it as I was turning and left it about .008" oversize and it made a world of difference in the shifter play. Here are the pics of the lathe motor that you requested. This is not the original motor, but was installed by the gentleman that found the lathe for me at auction from the local vo-tech school years ago. He was a motor whiz, & rest his soul if he were around today, I would bet he could walk out to his shop and pull another one right off of the shelf. BTW, on a side note, I called the LeBlond company who manufactured my lathe & spoke with a very nice gentleman trying to get some insight on what the thing came with originally as far as a motor and drive sheaves. Very interesting conversation, as he actually told me some of the history of the lathe & when it was built, just by giving him the Serial # on the machine. He said that it was manufactured & delivered to the Air Force at Bolling Field on November 30, 1940 and that the LeBlond Company made a lot of lathes for war-time service. But I digress as this is not a Wheel Horse topic (there I go rambling again), Just threw this out there if anyone else has one of these old machines and might have the curiosity of where it has been to give them a call.
  9. My 856 Project

    Thanks, Sarge. I kind of feared that it was not going to be an easy fix. I was doing a little research on line and found this stuff called "Belzona" which is an industrial epoxy. It sounds like its the industry standard for this type of fix and appears to have a high success rate, but there again, it's not a good sign when prices are not readily listed, so that's probably not an economical option either. The cheapest motor that I found was Harbor Freight, key word being "cheapest", as that is probably what I would get. I really don't use the lathe a lot though, and its heavy duty days are over anyway, but I'm just a little leery of investing half the cost of a new reputable brand, but will end up taking two or three replacements down the road. Anyone have any experience with H/F motors? I'll keep looking for a used one for now, but it certainly put the brakes on this Wheel Horse project.
  10. My 856 Project

    It really is a simple fix, something that just about anyone could utilize at some point & not requiring lathes or any expensive special equipment. Naturally not the most precise, but for a pin like this, perfect solution.
  11. My 856 Project

    Well, I guess as the saying goes, nothing is easy, at least not for me anyway. Made my trek yesterday to the local Fastenal to pick up the dog point set screw for the shifter. Naturally, not in stock and the guy checked other inventories & couldn't find anything closer than Cincinnati, OH that has one in stock. Here's the kicker, he said he can order one for $1.45, PLUS approx. $8.00 for shipping! I refused to do that just out of principal for something that could be thrown in an envelope with a 50 cent stamp. So being one for improvising, I went to the local big box store, bought a pack of (2) 1/4"-20 x 3/4 set screws which were made of stainless steel none the less for 98 cents & figured I can turn the point down on the lathe. Now for the really, really BAD news (for me anyway). I fire up the lathe & hear this awful growling noise coming from the motor & notice it wasn't spinning the drive. Turns out the motor shaft key had spun out of the motor armature shaft and totally destroyed the lathe motor shaft. So here I am deep into this project, with no lathe to do some of the fabrication that I had planned, at least until I can rectify this lathe motor situation. It's a 1 HP single phase reversible electric motor so they aren't exactly cheap. It could probably be repaired if I knew someone that was good with a tig welder, and be able to turn the shaft back down & mill a keyway. That would probably cost more than a new motor though at a regular machine shop, unless I could find someone that just does this as a hobby & wouldn't charge an arm and a leg. I'd be more than willing to buy the beer !! Anybody out there know anyone like that, or have any resources or suggestions? Short of that, it's new motor time, but that puts an awful unexpected dent into the Wheel Horse project funds. Anyway, in order just to finish this set screw part of the project, I did figure out a way to improvise once again to make the dog point. What I did was chuck the regular set screw in my cordless drill and spun the thing on the grinder basically machining the point by hand. It actually worked very well & rather than turning it down to the original diameter of the broken piece, I left it at about .008" oversize to take out some of the shifter slop. Here are a couple of pics:
  12. My 856 Project

    Thanks @ebinmaine, I guess “click” in my description is not really the right word, but I always thought that I could “feel” it more when the balls engaged the detents when shifting. Maybe it’s just my recollections failing me, but just want to be sure before assuming anything.
  13. My 856 Project

    Well, I got the transmission all put back together this weekend. I decided to go ahead and reassemble prior to the paint job, hoping that I can wrestle this thing enough to make it red as a whole unit without ruining the paint in the process. One minor set back, when I went to install the dog point set screw in the shifter, the darn thing snapped off. Luckily I was able to grab the piece with a pair of diagonal cutters and back it out easily. It must have been on the verge of breaking anyway because it basically broke without even snugging it up on the ball, hence it removed very easily. I saw in another post on the forum that someone mentioned Fastenal carries these, so off I go to Fastenal tomorrow to see what I can come up with. One concern I have about the transmission that maybe you guys can help me with. Everything seems to work OK, goes through all of the gears, & everything seems to turn freely like it should. My concern is that it just doesn't seem to "click" into each gear very positive. I wondered if it could possibly be from a weak spring in the spring/ball(s) detent on the forks, or maybe its just a result of the sum of all of the general wear in all of the other stuff, (or maybe its just my imagination). I'm sure that I got the spring, pin, and balls installed correctly, but there is always that little voice that says maybe one of the little balls didn't go where it was supposed to go & I just didn't catch it or some other stupid little thing that I missed. Hopefully its fine, but it just doesn't feel like it locks into the gears very positively, if that makes sense. Is this normal? Have you guys ever had to replace the little spring because it was weak? Possibly when I get the set screw installed on the shifter, it might also feel a little different too. If I do have some sort of problem or issue, I would sure want to address it now, even if it takes splitting the thing apart again & ruining a new gasket to check something . I sure don't want to find out later that it won't stay in gear or has a tendency to pop out of gear easily under power.
  14. My 856 Project

    Sounds like a good choice Sarge, I think that is what I will go with.
  15. My 856 Project

    Got my new bearings & seals delivered today, I decided also to replace the 3rd gear while I'm in there & ordered it from Lowell. Still can't do much reassembly though until I can get the case painted. I got to thinking though, there have been a lot of changes to oils & lubes since 1966. My manual says to use 3 pints of SAE 40 in the tranny. Is this still the best choice or are there better alternatives in modern days? I always thought gear boxes used gear oil such as 80-90 weight, and something tells me that may be what I used, probably erroneously, on one of the prior changes. I know when I drained it for the rebuild, it did look mighty thick. Any thoughts on this, oil weight, multi-viscosity, preferred brands, etc? If I use what the manual says (SAE 40), is that just straight 40 weight motor oil or do they make a 40 weight gear oil, or is there no difference? Never did quite understand all of the different oil classes and ratings such as GL-4 & GL-5 and API codings.
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