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joel_400

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About joel_400

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/18/1980

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    joel_400

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    (2)1276, Electro 12, B80, C101 puller, (2)C81,(2)A100, C85 puller, D160, 1054, dozer blades, snowblower, tiller, clevis hitches, brinly implements
  • favoritemodel
    All of them!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oak harbor OH
  • Occupation
    mechanic
  • Interests
    Various garden tractors, Kohler engines, hot rods of many types, garden tractor pulling, and many other hobbies that normal people consider useless! haha

Recent Profile Visitors

956 profile views
  1. Cradle mount rubber replacement

    If you take the mounts out 2 at a time I suppose you could leave the engine mostly intact. I did this mod to my pulling tractor when I had it all tore down to repaint.
  2. Cradle mount rubber replacement

    All three holes are in line on them...two 1/4 inch bolts hold the mount to the cradle and one 3/8 bolt holds the assembly down to the cast iron bars mounted to the frame. What I did was got some 1/2 inch plate, marked/d rilled the holes and cut them out to fit. Then tapped the 1/4 inch holes to bolt them to the cradle and bolted it all together. Done deal and never have a problem. joel
  3. carb soaking fluid

    I use an ultra sonic cleaner with water and a bit of cheap simple green knock off. Have had great luck with that. Then a bit of brake clean and air to blow it out and dry off. I've even had seized up carbs and throttle bodes free up after running a few cycles. Not sure how much they cost any more but mine was free and almost fits a four barrel. Just have to flip it over to get both sides of larger parts.
  4. k301 sputtering

    I have had similar problems to this before...check for deterioration in your fuel lines. I have had them fall apart inside and plug the inlet @ the carb. Also check your float level in the carb, and for dirt in the bowl of the carb. Maybe this will help. Joel
  5. Onan P220 vavle spring tool?

    K line p/n 3012 is the one I use for small engines. The absolute best I have found! Kinda pricey but we'll worth it. joel
  6. Engine test run stand

    Yes hp equals torque x rpm/5252. By cutting the speed of the dyno in half I double the torque output, however by doubling the length of the arm to measure I have in turn managed to have a corrected torque reading. Therefore using the engine rpm read off of the tach in the forMula I get the hp rating. Joel
  7. Engine test run stand

    By measuring the torque in lb/ft and using a simple formula with the rpm and torque you can convert to hp. BTW I use my digital timing light to set timing and get rpm readings. joel
  8. Engine test run stand

    I use the starter/generator for its intended purpose. It beats pull starting the engines! As far as the torque measuring system, it's very simple. The engine spins the shaft, the brake actually floats on the shaft and as you apply brake force the brake wants to rotate downward. That's where the fish scale on the end of the arm comes into play. It measures the torque output in lb/ft. However I did slow it down to half speed, therfore I had to make my measuring arm 2ft instead of one. I think this made it safer and more efficient my self though, as it really keeps the heat down when applying the brake. joel
  9. Engine test run stand

    I have killed a k301 running e85 without even working it. You must figure the rotor I used is roughly 30 to 35 percent of a brake system used to stop a 3000 or so pound car. Then added another caliper to that rotor for twice the clamping, also stabilizes the arm to measure the torque output by placing force on two sides verses one. I would guess I could stop at least twice what I have already. Joel
  10. Engine test run stand

    Here are some pics of my test stand...I have found it to be accurate within 5-10 percent of actual Kohler dyno info. The biggest reason I wanted to build it was to measure increases or decreases in power/torque and for fine tuning. So far I have had good luck with what I have done. And it was relatively cheap to build. I think my grand total was less than $250 for the whole deal. joel
  11. Head milling

    As far as the head milling, I would only take off enough to true it up. Then use a thinner copper head gasket. Im pretty sure you can get a gasket thats .021 thick, which would net you the same as milling the head .040. As far as fuel, I do believe Kohler recommends 90 octane for use in a k series. Joel
  12. The Elusive 18 HP Kohler OHC

    Ive seen them but never on a wheelhorse. Isnt that a simplicity?
  13. engine dyno

    So the other half has been out of town for three weeks now so I decided to play with the dyno a bit. Built a bone stock 12 hp and ran it and Im very close to actual dyno sheets printed by kohler. Since I had some extra time I played a bit with simple changes. First being a straight pipe vs a muffler. On a bone stocker it didnt seem to change a thing other than making some noise! But you gotta love a Kohler with a straight pipe. Then I built an E85 carb to see what kinda gains I could get from that...3 ft/lbs peak torque gain and 1.8 hp peak hp gain. Just from bolting on a carb! Made me happy enough. Next is a three angle valve job and maybe a cam. If I can get a buddy of mine to video I will try to get some posted. Otherwise I will just share what I find. Either way its alot of fun and could get very interesting. Joel
  14. k241 questions

    Maybe a condenser issue? Or the carb got some funk in it? Those are the first things I would start with by the syptoms. Hope this helps. Joel
  15. governor mods

    I'm not looking to bypass the governor, just modify it to build more rpm under load yet still tach at a lower set rpm under no load to pass tech. Technically cheating yet everyone does it! Joel
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