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McGrew

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McGrew last won the day on June 13

McGrew had the most liked content!

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About McGrew

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    Raider 10

Profile Information

  • Location
    Anderson, SC

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146 profile views
  1. A Sobering Day

    Ed, we have never met, but I feel i know you through your posts, as I do with many on this site. Prayers sent for your son and his family. Cancer is hard on the family,as well as the patient. Help Mark to stay positive. Attitude is everything! Danny
  2. How are you doing?

    Jim, Thanks for asking! I am in the NW corner of SC, and we dodged a bullet. Originally, the forecasters predicted 10-15” of rain and winds to 60mph for our area. The storm stayed north of us, and we had gusts to around 40 mph, but the rainfall barely got to 3/4 of an inch. We had minimal damage here. The folks East of us were not so lucky... Danny
  3. Plastic Coated Wheel Weights

    I am 99% sure they are factory. There is a filler plug on thr back, so concrete is likely. The only reason I questioned the material inside is because I work around concrete every day. Concrete weighs 150 lb/cubic foot. These feel heavy to me based on their volume. Or, I could just be getting weak! Danny
  4. Plastic Coated Wheel Weights

    Thanks guys! I will have them mounted tomorrow! So they are concrete filled? I would have sworn they felt heavier?
  5. OK, Gents, I acquired these wheel weights when I inheriterd a 71 model Raider 10. I see a lot of love for the cast iron weights, but not so much for the plastic coated ones. Even though I assume they would function just as well? I do not see any marking on them anywhere, so I am guessing they are not Wheel Horse? If not, who made them? And what is inside these things? Based on their weight, they feel heavier than concrete? I am guessing they weigh around 50 lbs each? Not that it matters, but do they have any value? They are not going anywhere since I got this tractor from my Dad, and they have more sentimental value than anything else. I’m getting ready to mount them and start pushing some dirt... Thanks! Danny
  6. Tntatro, I just finished rebuilding the six speed in my tractor, and also had trouble getting those bearings out. My solution was to chuck the gear up in a lathe and carefully reduce the thickness of the bearing until it fell out. I realize most people don’t have access to a lathe, and am curious how others got their bearings out. I too tried to press them out, but due to the fact that those bearings sit on a shoulder, I could not get enough purchase on them to do anything but destroy the bearing housing. I wish you luck!
  7. I agree with Eric on the belt dressing. Even though I used the Huskee Kevlar belt from Tractor Supply it really is too early for me to comment on it. I will say this: From the early abuse I put it through, it seems to have very minor damage. It probably jumped off the engine pulley 10 times, and wedged against the engine block. When this happened, I shut it down quickly. Even so, James Bond would have been proud of the smoke screen...
  8. OK, guys, success at last! The temporary setup with the washers worked fine, I was not not completely thrilled with the solution. I feel like it is not addressing the cause, but treating a symptom. So I tried the belt that is 1” shorter. I could not get it on! So I decided to make the best of it, and machined a couple of guides to replace the washer stack. I installed them this evening, and the belt now stays on the pulley. I found in my Dad’s notes ( he bought the tractor new), the notation the main dive belt is 81 7/8” long. I guess the 5L-820 is as close as I will get. I also have no idea where Dad got those numbers... Bottom line is the tractor works as it should, and I am happy! Thanks again for everyone’s help! Danny
  9. Paul, I checked the alignment of the pulleys. I tried my best to use my hi tech laser setup, but there was too many obstructions in the way to get it lined up. So, I used my low tech masons line... Bottom line is the pulleys are as in alignment. I don’t see how I could make them any better. The idler pulley is also in line, and does not deflect when pushing in the clutch. I did buy an 81 inch belt, but have not tried it. I hate wasting money, and if that belt comes off, there is no way I would return it. I did try Garry’s suggestion and added two more guides at 2 o’clock and 5 o’clock. What you see is a temporary setup to see if it solves the problem. If it works, those stacks of washers will be replaced by spacers I will machine. There is about 3/16” clearance between the belt and the washer stack. I ran out of time and did not get a chance to test the setup. I still wonder if the shorter belt is the correct way to go? Thanks fo all your help! Danny
  10. Thanks Paul. That is something else I will check tonight. I think I’ve had the floorboard and belt cover off about 6 times in the last 4 hours. I think I can do it blindfolded now! Danny
  11. Paul, I have not... I have only eyeballed it, and if it is out, it isn’t by much. That said,, i will put a straightedge on it tonight. Thanks for the suggestion! On another subject, the manual that came with the tractor recommends 1/32” clearance between the fingers and belt. Steve recommends a larger gap. FWIW, the belt comes off regardless of the clearance. I trust Steve’s judgement, as he got me through the six speed rebuild. I am just an amateur when it comes to these tractors. I know belt technology has changed. Maybe that is one reason for the larger gaps? Thanks! Danny
  12. OK guys, I need your help. The new belt will not stay on the engine pulley. I tried adjusting the fingers anywhere from close to zero clearance to 3/16”. I tried tightening the clearance on the bottom finger and loosening the top one. No luck. It seems increasing the clearance makes the problem worse. The best it has worked was with the bottom finger pushing upward on the belt, and about 1/32” clearance on the top. In this configuration, it only jumps off the pulley once out of every 4 times I step on the clutch. The belt alignment looks good, as do the pulleys. The belt is still in good shape. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. The first pic is how it should ride. Notice in the second pic, the belt is on top of the pulley and wedged against the engine block... I am wondering if a shorter belt would help? This is a brand new 5L-820, but I can buy one an inch shorter. When I compared the new belt to the old one, the new one seemed just a tiny bit longer... When the clutch is disengaged, the tension on the belt feels fine. Not tight, but certainly not sloppy either. Keep in mind, this tractor was repowered. The original 10HP Techy was replaced by a 14HP OHV Techy. I don’t have the original motor in my possession to compare the shaft heights. The old belt that worked great until it came off was too worn to find any size. Please help!
  13. 1054 Transmission Rebuild

    Manny, Good luck with the rebuild. Follow Stevasaurus's videos, and you will not have a problem. And, you and I have the same floor jack! I believe it is a Sears Craftsman 2 ton. Mine was gift from my parents about 45 years ago! I rebuilt it a couple years ago, and it works like new.
  14. Snow Plow Question

    Garry, Thank you! My Dad was really good at keeping all the paperwork on his equipment, but the instructions on the snow blade is the one thing that I did not have. I probably should correct myself, my Mom is the one who kept and filed EVERYTHING! The instructions answered my question much as I suspected.... "Tilt back for more aggressive action". Thanks again!
  15. Snow Plow Question

    This snow plow (ok, it will probably never see snow here in SC) has 4 different holes the top of the springs can be mounted in. This would change the angle of the blade in the vertical plane. Mine has always been set in the second hole from the top, making the blade almost vertical. Do you ever move this adjustment for different jobs? Does anyone have the manual for this 71 model 42” plow? Thanks!
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