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About tntatro

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  1. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    The last transmission I did was foamy a day after I put the fluid in. I just checked it today and it is clear again. It foams up after it is run for a little bit. The level was a little high on the dipstick though so I may have put a little too much in. It foamed enough to leak a little fluid out the hi/low shifter. The C160 may have got condensation because it was out in the weather for a little while. They all have new shifter boots. Maybe I should go for a different brand of gear oil. The one I used is Warren and the only one on the shelf at the parts store closest to my house.
  2. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    I found a pricey hub puller that I might buy when I get time and money, maybe in July. It has a plate with 5 slots that I believe will fit the Wheel Horse hubs.I put an 8 speed transmission on the Raider 12 and want to take apart the original transmission to see if it has the limited slip differential. I noticed that shortly after running the 8 speed the gear oil got really foamy looking and opaque. The transmission was drained but had a small amount of very clean and clear oil in it. I used 80w/90 gear oil. Did I do something wrong or use the wrong oil? I also checked the C-160 I did last winter and the gear oil looks a little foamy and a coffee (with milk) color. I cant find the 90-140 anywhere but did see 85-140. I don't know what the numbers mean. The local Toro dealer said it has to be 90 and was going to sell me the 80/90 but was out and told me the 85-140 is way too thick. I'm sure the 4 speed transmission I did is foamy also but it doesn't have a dipstick to check it.
  3. Cracked piston k241

    There is a shop that rebuilds Kohler engines a couple hours drive from me. They are called Kustom Lawn and Garden. I don't know anything about them, just found them online but they sound pretty good. The website doesn't say they do re-boring though. They sell kits, parts and do rebuilding. I'm assuming they would do it. It's good ti know the aftermarket stuff is acceptable. It's unlikely I'll be able to afford original stuff from Kohler if I have to completely rebuild it. Aftermarket parts are the same with chainsaws, as long as the specifications are good then they generally will be fine. I think a lot of people have problems when they don't check the specifications and assume everything is good to run. I've got a piston before that wouldn't even fit in the bore.
  4. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    That tool must pay off in the long run by saving money on hub replacement and time fooling with them. Do you know if places rent out a puller like that? I only have two transmissions that I want to work on right now, or was that reasonably affordable to make?
  5. Cracked piston k241

    Thanks a lot for the replies. Now I have a better idea of what I'm getting into. It looks like I'll probably have to find a good machine shop. This will likely be a winter project. I have a transmission that I want to work on as soon as I can and a bunch of summer projects. It looks like the cost can vary quite bit. I was originally considering using aftermarket parts but after mowing with my 1973 8hp 4 speed a couple times I hate to put anything less than the best into it. I've never enjoyed mowing a lawn so much and it will mow areas that regular riding mowers couldn't go up and down easily and safely. I guess it will be a matter of budget.
  6. Cracked piston k241

    When I buy a parts chainsaw to rebuild I take it apart and check the specifications and bearings and replace what needs to b replaced. Doing a full rebuild is expensive even for something as simple as a chainsaw. There must be ways to check a Kohler engine for what it needs rather than assuming that it needs to be re bored and completely rebuilt.
  7. Cracked piston k241

    Does re-boring require a machine shop? I may be able to rebuild it but I don't know anything about re-boring it. I know there are tools that can be purchased to hone a cylinder but what about boring one out? What is the average price on having a cylinder bored?
  8. Cracked piston k241

    Here's a deal that I couldn't pass up. It was a craigslist buy from a guy getting rid of this k241 with a cracked piston for $40. It also came with the PTO pulley, ignition coil, two carburetors with air filter housings (one looks like a new aftermarket) and the engine appears to be complete except the muffler. There are small miscellaneous parts missing but it's well worth the price. He said it needs to be bored but I don't know if he meant cross hatched or bored out. Can anyone tell me how to figure out what it needs other than a piston? I've never rebuilt a Kohler engine before. It will be a while before I actually get to it but any tips or how to get started would be appreciated. He said it turned over but he couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start until he pulled the cylinder head. He replaced the engine and wasn't going to spend time on this one. The bore has light surface rust but no deep scoring. I got the impression that he knew it has value for parts but thinks it is not worth fixing. I'm not at all experienced with these engines but I'm thinking it can be revived and well worth the effort.
  9. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    I guess if I get to the point where the hub needs to be cut then I should at least crank the puller as hard as possible to see if something breaks or the hub comes off.
  10. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    I attempted another hub puller using a 2 ton hydraulic jack but still no luck on the Raider hub. I'm afraid the hub might break. I've reached the point where it's hard to pump the jack. The broken part in the picture was like that already.
  11. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    Okay, that's good. I'm not 100% sure both were spinning but I thought they were. It sounded like both, then I looked to the right and it was spinning, then to the left and it was spinning and back to the right and not spinning. I couldn't get the stuck broken bolt off but I removed both wheels and next time I get a chance I'll pull the transmission. I'm also working on making a hub puller. The first attempt was not good.
  12. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    I just tried the tree technique. The first time just one would spin, the second time both spun for a couple seconds then only one, the third time just one. Don't know what that means. The fluid is about half on the dipstick so maybe that could affect things. About to try to get the bolt off the hub with wax.
  13. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    Since I wasn't getting much done today I went out and bought a new drive belt because the one I ordered is taking too long on shipping. Same belt fits my others so I have a spare now. The Raider 12 now drives in 2nd and 3rd. It is raining so I didn't drive around too much. It also really needs the gear oil changed. The axles seem to have some play on the Raider, it's kind of hard to tell. Next time I'll take the wheels off and check for play. I may put in my 8 speed transmission that I recently bought and rebuild the one on it now if it does need bearings. Then I'll know for sure what it has for a differential. Bosch Blue Granite masonry drill bits work good on metal.
  14. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    No, I can take out the one over the keyway. I was thinking about grinding a little off the sides to fit a wrench on. I may end up making a puller with a metal plate instead of an extra hub.
  15. Need 1973 4 speed axle seals

    I'm trying to get a hub off the Raider to use for a puller. The hub is very loose but will not come off. There is a second bolt with the head broke off that I think might be holding it. Even a small pipe wrench didn't loosen it, I'm afraid it might break if I try harder. Any suggestions?