Jump to content

Petes Horse

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About Petes Horse

  • Rank

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Christiansburg VA

Recent Profile Visitors

76 profile views
  1. Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
  2. D-160 Parking brake brackets

    That's exactly what I needed. Thanks! Bookmarked that site twice
  3. I've been looking for a while. The bolt holes just line up and the wire is a little tight between the fender and light. No drilling though. They were at Rural King. I think about three bucks each. Optronics MC42RS RED Marker/Clearance.
  4. Hello, Would anyone be willing to share a picture of the brackets/linkage on their brake band and pump? I'm having a rough time getting parts together or even knowing if I have them all. I've looked through the manuals and can't find anything yet. Thanks, Pete
  5. Thought I would share an experiment brought on by boredom and waiting for parts/payday. I found some new very old oem Toro backup o-rings and wanted to compare them to my new o-rings. Measured them both and found the Toro backups to be 25 thousandths smaller diameter and a lot harder than the new ones. When I put the Toro backup on the new o-ring and pushed down on them it wanted to roll off and was difficult to keep together. The new backup fit well and was very stable. I could put much more force on them. The new backup also fit snugly into pump recess while the Toro oem would fall out. I figure the Toro ones may have shrunk over the years. To measure, I used the highly scientific method of picking them up with my caliper then slowly opening it until they fell out Toro #103184 Viton 90 durometer #018 contoured backup Viton 70 durometer #018 o-ring Toro backup on top of new o-ring New backup on new o-ring Toro backup side view with what looks like an eyelash in the background. New backup side view eyelash removed.
  6. hub removal question

    If you use a puller this worked for me. tighten the puller 20/30lbs, heat the hub, pull and hold the axle out even if its only an 1/8", then hit the screw in part of the puller good and hard. the shock load will move the axle a tiny bit. The shock is what gets it done. As it moves the sound of the hit will go from high pitch to a thud. rinse and repeat. Also grind the point off the puller. it may swell the end of the axle. What Iynnmor said it very true. Mine were really wallowed out. Hope this helps. good luck.
  7. new to wheel horse

    I have the same problem. Lots of hills. I moved the seat back as far as it would go and lean towards the top of the hill. New wider tires at lower pressure helped a lot. Use the hydraulics to slow down. The brake will lock the unloaded wheel leaving a giant skid mark that can be seen from the street. Not saying that happened... No one screamed ether I'm running 23x10.5x12 at 5 psi and could have fit 23x12x12. I have a 417a and looks to be similar to yours. Check the clearance on the inside of your current tires to the closes thing to them. if you go two inches wider they will be one inch closer. Careful with the height of the tire. It will cost you torque if you go taller. Important note, horses are herd animals. If you keep it long enough more will show up.
  8. D160 carrier bolt failures

    Thanks for the help. Just got into Wheel horses and there is a lot to learn. Almost as addictive as old VWs.
  9. D160 carrier bolt failures

    Will definitely go grade 9 and thankfully the axles and everything else inside the trans is in very good shape. Does this look like the right diff?
  10. D160 carrier bolt failures

    I was just thinking about changing the differential to get the larger bolts. If they are the larger bolts.
  11. D160 carrier bolt failures

    An 8 speed read just popped up on ebay. If it has 1-1/8 axles would it work in the d160? This would be the best solution.
  12. D160 carrier bolt failures

    The bolts are 5/16 and are already grade 8. I think the guy that fixed the previous damage used better bolts.
  13. Hello, I'm trying to stop my D160 from shearing the bolts in the rear again and have some questions about the failures. Do the bolts just get loose enough to allow the head to be sheared off by the case? Does the threaded end fail/snap allowing the bolt to slide out shearing off the head? Anyone upgrade their bolts and have them break again? Were the other bolts loose as well? I'm hoping it's due to improper torque and not from the bolts limited clamping force. I know I'm thinking way too deep into this but that's part of the fun. Thanks
  14. Welding rear ends

    Yup, the silicone was like snot worms all over the place. Whats most amazing is none of the metal shavings from whats left of the parking mechanism ended up in the hydro motor. Not going to be putting that back in.
  15. Welding rear ends

    Thanks for the info. I took it apart for a leak and there was silicon for a gasket. I may try brazing over some of the low areas on the gasket surface. Who ever did it did a nice job though. Dave, I was wondering about the c145 cases. The only differences I saw was the parking pawl not drilled and what looks like deeper cut inner bearings on the d. The best part is I think I can use Wheelhorsemans new 1533 bearings. Its a very good option. Thanks for the heads up.