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Petes Horse

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About Petes Horse

  • Rank
    Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    d160

Profile Information

  • Location
    Christiansburg VA

Recent Profile Visitors

588 profile views
  1. Cam timing K482, k583

    That would make sense, kind of like not marching in step over a bridge. Thanks, been wondering about this for a while. Pete
  2. Cam timing K482, k583

    Hello everyone, While checking parts I noticed the cam lobes for one cylinder are offset. If the cylinders fire 180 deg apart why wouldn't the cam lobes line up? I'm missing something. Any ideas? Thanks, Pete The two lobes are for the intakes. Exhaust has the same offset.
  3. K532 with K482 bore?

    I'm glad to hear this. It looks like I can use parts from other motors. So more parts and less money. I've been looking for a good engine guy. If I do it right maybe it will last more than 40+ years Seriously though, what a beast of a motor.
  4. K532 with K482 bore?

    Hello everyone, Time to do the engine. It has K532 cast into the block. So I was a little surprised to measure a K482 bore size. Is this normal? Thanks, Pete
  5. D160 lift cylinders and pump pressure

    Have the last part sorted out. I had the relief and implement valves reversed. At least I'm consistent
  6. D160 lift cylinders and pump pressure

    Doh! Thanks for the help. That was it. That would have taken me forever to figure out. The wheels still move but not the cylinders. I think I'll pull the implement relief valve tomorrow. Maybe it's stuck open. The 11/16 socket is a good idea I'll be fitting one tomorrow. My nut and bold idea isn't holding up. Thanks, Pete
  7. D160 lift cylinders and pump pressure

    You're right that's what I had to do. Just pulled the plug out above the temperature sender. When I spin it counter clockwise it pulls a vacuum. Clockwise it pumps oil out. That doesn't look right. Oh well, I do need the practice.
  8. D160 lift cylinders and pump pressure

    Not sure. I tried different directions when I reassembled it and thought it only went in in one way. That might explain why the wheels are working and not the lifts. Is counterclockwise the right direction to spin it? Could the check valves and implement valve stop it at such low rpm? I will definitely be taking a lot more pictures of what I'm doing that's for sure.
  9. D160 lift cylinders and pump pressure

    I was hoping to get all of the air out and test it. I thought it would work but just very slowly It's going to be a while before I get the engine done. Would have been nice to see the lifts work.
  10. Hello everyone, I just finished getting my hydraulics back together and I'm having some trouble. The hydro motor works in both directions but the cylinders won't move. I rebuild and cleaned everything and I'm pretty sure I got it all back together correctly. well, no parts left over anyway. I'm spinning the pump counter clockwise with a drill at maybe a hundred rpm. When I move the levers I get nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Pete
  11. Batteries

    You could try a junk yard. I was messing around with electric cars for a while and was able to get ok used batteries for 15-20 bucks.
  12. Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
  13. D-160 Parking brake brackets

    That's exactly what I needed. Thanks! Bookmarked that site twice
  14. I've been looking for a while. The bolt holes just line up and the wire is a little tight between the fender and light. No drilling though. They were at Rural King. I think about three bucks each. Optronics MC42RS RED Marker/Clearance.
  15. Hello, Would anyone be willing to share a picture of the brackets/linkage on their brake band and pump? I'm having a rough time getting parts together or even knowing if I have them all. I've looked through the manuals and can't find anything yet. Thanks, Pete
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