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About a.dumont

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1973 Automatic 18 (D-180)
  • favoritemodel

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  • Military Member
  • Location
    Hingham, WI
  • Occupation
    Army Recruiter

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  1. K482 Oil Pressure

    Thanks for the help @Sarge. You've been my number one source of help on this beast since I got it last year. I left the oil pressure set to 40psi and mowed my field with it. Not a single problem! Finally!
  2. K482 Poor Idle

    Just completed a K482 rebuild. Everything is within tolerance/specs. Valves and points adjusted. New plugs gapped to spec. Timing adjusted. Brand new carburetor and air filter. Runs great off idle, but will only idle if a bit of choke is added. I started the idle screw at a base adjustment of 1 1/4 turns. Still won't idle at 3+ turns. I'm curious if I have a bad carb, or possibly a bad gasket between the carb and the 90 degree elbow. I did notice the gasket blocked a passage, so I punched a hole thinking it was for a vent. (See picture). Is this port supposed to be blocked?
  3. K482 Oil Pressure

    Just finished a rebuild on a K482. I added an external, remote, oil filter. (Yes, I verified the direction of flow.) I thought 30psi of pressure would be plenty, but the manual calls for 40-50psi at idle. Not sure that this is an "industrial" application, so maybe it should be less? Only concern is blowing out a front seal. Any numbers from the field on typical oil pressure at idle and WOT?
  4. Wheel horse 18 automatic

    Static base timing between the governor and camshaft gear is pretty straight forward. Don't forget to clean and adjust the point gap, and then use a timing light to set the dynamic timing. (Procedure in the manual.)
  5. K482S Spec Differences?

    A K482S is a K482S... or so I thought until I set my replacement engine next to my blown engine. The replacement has a larger and longer output shaft, and a wider flywheel bolt pattern for the flex coupling. Are the rest of the internals the same? Can I swap out the crank and flywheel and run it? Is there a website or listing of what the designed purpose/differences are between spec numbers? Original engine to my 1973 D-180: Model K482S Spec 35209b Serial 375904 Replacement from a sweeper unit: Model K482S Spec 35173b Serial 3186634
  6. KABOOM!

    www.isavetractors.com sells the connecting rods, but after taking the bottom off... looks like a crank would be in the works too. Price just jumped on this rebuild. Found another engine for $200 without the core required. Going to swap it out for now. Will be selling the parts off this one soon.
  7. KABOOM!

    Hi guys, I appreciate all the input. My father in law found a 24 HP Kohler for $400 with the core. I'd like the upgrade, but I could end up spending $400 for the engine, only to need to rebuild it. After much thought, I'm going to fix my K482. A rebuild is going to be $500 to $600 to do it completely and right. However, since I need something to cut the grass now, I'll get a used rider (found a few 54" one-owners locally). Hopefully this time next year I'll be looking at a Kubota B-Series TLB.
  8. KABOOM!

    0.030" over is the largest piston and ring set I can find. I think that would clean up the scoring. A good point was made that the crank may have some damage, and locating a new one would be tough. I found a source for a new rod, assuming that is what went. For all I know, the wrist pin came out of the bottom of the piston. In the end, I am heavily leaning towards getting a subcompact tractor, and letting the WH turn into a fun, slow, rebuild project instead of a necessity.
  9. KABOOM!

    While mowing yesterday, my K482 on my 1973 D-180 started to smoke (oil). Then it stalled. I got it back to the garage, and found the oil level only 0.5 qt low on a 3.5 qt system. I added oil and started it back up. It ran smooth for 10 seconds, then a loud bang with a lot of vibration. I immediately shut it off. No compression on #1, and only 80 psi on #2. Pulling the head on #1 I found the piston free-floating (assuming connecting rod snapped?). There is a deep groove in the cylinder wall. Fellas, I was given this tractor to use by my father-in-law. He paid $1,000 as-is, after which I've spent another $1,100 on it. I was hoping to use it for 2 years to cut my 4 acres of grass and plow my 200' driveway, until I was able to get a subcompact. I only got 1 winter out of it. Aftermarket, oversized, rebuild kits are around $300, but now I need to involve a machine shop. I have no clue what local shops will charge for this, but I'm guessing around $200. In the end, I will still have a 45 year old tractor that doesn't have a loader or a backhoe... Should I repair it? Should I sell it as is? Should I part it out? Thoughts guys?
  10. K482 Governor Leak

    Bought a square-cut seal kit from Harbor Freight for $5. Had what I needed. Cheapest fix I've had on this so far.
  11. K482 Governor Leak

    I've tried Google and YouTube, but no videos. Did find this on http://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/k482-9042a/governor-021700914/. I'm looking to replace item #7.
  12. K482 Governor Leak

    My 1973 Automatic 18 (D-180) with a K482 is leaking oil by the governor arm. I have the Kohler repair manual, but it doesn't go into component service. Anyone with experience on this? What kind of seal goes there?
  13. Leaking Line

    Removed the lines and attempted to solder. The difference in thickness between the pipes and the block made getting the heat correct (and even) near impossible. Had a local metal shop TIG weld all four lines. Used universal O-rings from Harbor Freight and re-assembled. Used pipe dope on the wet bolt. No issues and runs great. Thanks for the help guys!
  14. Leaking Line

    Thanks for the info. I'll pull the line set out, media blast the area, and then solder it. I think the only fun will be finding replacement O-rings. Will standard diameter O-rings from a universal kit cover these, or are they a specific type, like square-cut?
  15. Leaking Line

    My 1973 Automatic 18 (D-180) started to leak where the pipe joins the block. (See picture) What is the fix for this? Someone said solder in place, but I have my doubts.