Straight From the Horse's Mouth - The final chapter

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Tinbgith

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About Tinbgith

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Wheel Horse Information

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    314-8

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    KY

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  1. 314-8 PTO Killing Engine

    Finally got back home late last night. I just tested the NMIR module, everything checked within parameters, except for one. During the powered circuit test, on the third item (Pin 3 Ground, Pin 2 B+, testing between Pins 3 & 1), I got a reading of 2.9 ohms, while it should've been <2 ohms. When voltage was applied, I did hear a solenoid click, but I'm guessing the reading of 50% higher than the limit could have something to do with my issue. Looking at the schematic, I believe Pin 1(Violet) goes to both the neutral relay and the kill relay, and could definitely be the culprit if it's not operating correctly. Do you guys agree? If so, I'll go ahead and order the NMIR module. If not, then I'll keep digging. Thanks for the tips/diagrams so far! -Dan
  2. So I'm finishing up fixing my new to me 314-8 (73449, 1999), and I encountered a new issue today. To back up, last weekend I had the tractor running, PTO/mower deck worked fine. Only issue was I later realized (when shutting down) that I had forgotten to hook up the kill wire to the new coil/mag. I pulled the blower housing back off, installed the wire, put it back together, and tested the shutdown kill feature (turning key off). It worked as it should, so that was that. Fast forward to today... I had a small amount of time to play with the tractor before I had to leave home again. PTO would only engage when trans was in neutral, otherwise it would kill the engine. To simplify things, I'll just list various conditions/results. I've looked at the schematics and demyst. guide, but I'm not sure which bit is most likely the culprit: switch/relay/connectors/wiring? I do have a good multimeter to use to test various things, so feel free to offer things I should check. A few things first: - Engine starts up fine and quickly - Before kill wire connected, PTO worked as it should, engine continued to run in any gear After kill wire connected: - In neutral, can get off seat and engine continues to run - In gear (moving), if I take weight off of seat, engine is killed In neutral: - PTO engages, mower deck runs, with clutch pedal pressed or released In gear (clutch pedal released): - When starting to move PTO lever, engine is killed When moving trans lever from neutral (PTO engaged and working) to any gear, clutch pedal pressed, tractor stationary: - Engine is killed Based on reading older posts, I was leaning toward something with the seat switch, but the fact that it cuts out when I take my butt off the seat while moving tends to sway me away from that. I'll still check it whenever I can get back home, just don't know that it'll be the fix. Thanks for any advice or previous experience you can give! -Dan
  3. Already replaced the fuel lines, only took a few minutes to thread it through the tunnel/clips. I had uncoiled the new line a week ago while working on the carb, so it was as straight as you could hope to get. However, that's a really good tip, I can see that it would work well (and will hopefully remember it for the future). I do understand about using non-ethanol gas, I just have to find somewhere nearby that has it. I haven't noticed anywhere yet, but I'm in a pretty rural area and have seen off-road diesel a number of places, I assume there has to be somewhere around here that has non-ethanol gas. Thanks for the advice, I'll keep that in mind when replacing the boot, and try to do it all at the same time. -Dan
  4. Well, Chaps, she runs!!! Was able to get back home today and install the carb/air filter assembly, and replaced the main fuel line/filter, and drained what was left in the tank (not much came out, probably less than 1/2 cup). Accounting for the fact that the fuel pump had to draw fuel from the tank to the engine (empty line), it started right up! Drove it around a bit, eventually could get it in all gears, high and low. Installed the mower deck back underneath, and it runs well, too. The lift lever issue seems to be a non-issue for now, as the mower deck seems to get low enough as is. The one oopsie for today was that the engine didn't turn off with the key... eventually remembered that I didn't connect the ground to the coil when reinstalling it. Just took the blower cover off again and connected it, ops check good. Still have to do the transmission fluid, lever boot, etc. Also have to check the brake, when the tractor is in gear it's like there isn't a brake at all (not that I'm going to make a habit of braking while in gear), though it does stop the tractor otherwise. Hoping just a quick adjustment will do the trick. Next project after this is to replace the wheels on the trailer that they also left behind, though I'm thinking a quick trip to TSC and a few minutes swapping out should be about all I need for that. Thanks again for all of the advice. -Dan
  5. Thanks! I read that section in the manual before, but must've stopped paying attention when it said in the first sentence "The Dial-A-Height control (Fig. 14) is used to limit the downward travel of attachments other than mowers." However, looking at it again, it says to turn it all the way to the plastic thread cap for mowing, should have read the whole paragraph before! I tried yesterday to turn it all the way, but I've still got at least 1.5" of thread left to go until the thread cap, and I can absolutely not get it any farther by hand. I'm going to assume that either something is binding up the threads, or there's something further down preventing movement. Looking at the parts diagrams, I believe I now understand how the dial control works with the lever. Hoping to get back home this weekend, should be able to pick up the choke linkage from the post office and hopefully get the thing running, and have a closer look at the lever issue. Also checked the shifter boot yesterday, and will need to change that out when I can get the part, as well. As far as I can figure, to remove the lever there's just a jam nut and set screw to remove the lever, swap the boot, and reinstall? On the note of the transmission, just shifting it around while sitting I can get it into High/Low/R-1-2, but the lever doesn't want to go into third. It doesn't seem that the big metal spring on the console faceplate is getting in the way, and I watched the video on how the trannys work last night. Is it possible that the 3rd gear/pinion is just a little stuck, and maybe a good cleaning/flushing/fluid change might get it moving/shiftable again? Or am I likely to have to open the dang thing up and do some real work? Thanks for all of the advice and words so far, glad I found an active forum with so much knowledge on these machines! Just tinkering around with this one (never had a riding mower/tractor before), I can tell why people like them so much, though the youtube videos I watched about removing the mower deck took some liberties to make it look much easier/quicker than it really is... all the ones I saw don't mention anything about removing the PTO belt. They all just said "push this button, remove this pin, and slide it out!" ....not quite that simple, but it's still not bad at all. -Dan
  6. Update 9/19 I've spent a bit more time working on the Wheel Horse, got her cranking over quite well tonight!!! Though without the carb installed... Unfortunately, somewhere between the shed and the carport I've lost the choke linkage to the carb. I've scoured as well as I can, but to no avail. One is on order, and should've been here today, but apparently two day shipping really means five (according to USPS tracking). I won't name the vendor yet, but they will be hearing from me as I paid quite a bit extra for expedited shipping since I have to leave tomorrow for work. I gave her a basic wash, looks pretty good considering its 18 years old. See pictures at end of post. Some things I've done the past few days: - Replaced drive belt - Clutch gas strut is a bit sluggish, so I've installed an aftermarket bungie from the clutch pedal to the seat bracket that seems like it will work well enough until I can get the proper spring to connect from the clutch linkage to the transaxle ear - Removed mower deck - Gave mower deck a wash - Replaced mower deck belt - Replaced blades - Removed entire blower housing, removed all mouse nests, gave housing a bath while I had it off - Replaced coil/ignition wire - Oil/Filter change - Lubed up every zerk I've found so far - Removed starter and cleaned all of the oil grass clippings that seemed to be impeding the Bendix gear About that starter... When I first tried to crank it, I could hear the starter moving, but it seemed very anemic. I removed the housing cover to watch the gear, and could easily see the teeth while cranking it. That's when I decided to remove it and found all of the crap that was obviously binding it up. Gave it a good cleanup, and "bench" tested with my jumper box. Spun up very strong, Bendix gear slid up the shaft, perfect. Installed it back onto the engine, and cranked it up. Spun up strong, but did not engage, no matter how many times I cranked it. Decided it maybe needed to be lubed up a little, and did that while it was still bolted on by pulling up the gear and lubing as best as I could. Try to crank, same thing, spins strong, but doesn't move to engage. So now I remove it for a second time. (Good thing it's so easy, eh?) Clean it even more thoroughly, but don't lube it, test it with the jumper box a few times, looks great. Re-install it back on to the engine. Try to crank it again. SAME THING. Then something clicks in my head. That ground cable from the battery seemed the whole time like it was too long and hanging out of the engine compartment too much. I took a close look at the routing of the cables, and realized the ground from the starter was connected to the pos. post on the battery!!! Upon closer inspection, I know how I did it. At some point while hooking up the battery (both cables are black), I looked at the starter solenoid and saw a black and red cable. I then proceeded to absent-mindedly think "oh, well the red cable is positive, so obviously this black cable hooks up to the negative post" and proceeded to hook up the real ground to the pos. post. Once I realized this, I knew that my whole problem with the starter not engaging the flywheel was because the starter was turning the wrong way and the Bendix gear was unable to advance to engage! I swapped the battery cables to the correct posts, and on the first try (without carb installed) I got I nice "whoomp-whoomp-whoomp"!!! Still need to do: - Install carb and air filter assembly - Replace gear oil - Replace fuel filter and line from tank to filter/pump One question: I'm not sure how far the attachment lever is supposed to move, in the attached pics it is in the full back/up, and then the fullfull forward/down positions, as far as I can tell. The lever only has range of about 20-30 degrees (definitely no more than that). Just looking for advice on whether that's the normal down position or whether I need to look closer to see if something is binding it up. Thanks for reading! -Dan Edited to show different handle positions
  7. Hey all, Just closed on my house about two weeks ago. The previous owners left their Wheel Horse for me (they inherited from the original builder/owner), it's a '99 314-8, with a 42" mower deck. Only issue is it's been sitting in a shed for the past 8 years, as they started paying the neighbor to mow the lawn for them. Supposedly it ran fine when they parked it, so I figure I can get it running without too much trouble, and get it looking good at the same time. It's only got 251 hours on the meter. I've already got a fair bit of money into it, mostly the cost of new tires! However, it will only be a fraction of the price of a new comparable model. In addition, I really do enjoy working on machines of any sort to get them working as good as ever... there's some great feeling of satisfaction in the end result. (I know you all can relate) Things I've already done/have parts on hand to replace when its time for reassembly: - Replaced all four tires, the old ones were completely flat, unsalvageable. Got those back on today and was able to roll the tractor out of the shed and into my carport to have much better access to everything. - Replaced battery - Removed carb, bought new aftermarket carb (hopefully it works alright, was cheaper and easier than dismantling and cleaning old carb) - Will replace fuel lines and fuel filter, cheap and easy - Oil/filter change to be completed - Replaced spark plug On order, to be completed: - Spark plug wire, mice chewed through it - Clean out blower housing, as you can see. There used to be a scrap piece of insulation in the shed, its now just the paper backing. The rest was made into mouse condos. Obviously need to do a thorough inspection for other areas and wires. - PTO and Mower Deck Belts, I'm just assuming those are in need of replacement - Various bits and pieces, nothing too exciting - Anything else I come across as I progress Looking forward to sharing progress and getting advice and pointers from all of you who are knowledgeable on these machines! -Dan
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