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Skipper

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About Skipper

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/13/1973

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    thomas.vejrup@gmail.com

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Old faithful C-120-8 with custom hydraulics, 1 ton tip trailer, etc.
  • favoritemodel
    C-195

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nees/Denmark/Europe most of the time, or else you can find me stateside
  • Occupation
    R&D devolopment engineer
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse, My wonderful kids and wife, Hunting, Fishing, Reverse engineering, Restoring vintage cars, ECU programming, tinkering, improving and upgrading things, and many more.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. A salute to the good old twin Kohlers

    So as I said, much more of a working girl than a show queen , but compared to before touchup, this ain't so bad. She runs strong and flawless now, and will get the job done for sure. I'll fabricate some engine side covers to guide the airflow, put a sticker on the fender, and set her up with a tiller and a 48" deck. Then she should be ready for a new owner.
  2. Planter-Sleeve Hitch S2H-BS

    Sorry but I have to break in with a stupid question here. I have never seen such a thing before. Is it a machine for seeding or what is it used for more specifically? Corn perhaps? Sorry for the noob question
  3. High octane gasoline

    Adding methanol IE race fuel, will up the octane value a great deal. Higher octane allows you (or the ECU) to advance the ignition further without ignition "knock", this is generating more power in engines that can utilize it. The methanol burns colder, Much colder, and lowers the intake temp drastically, giving a denser fill. This is also true but not as pronounced with ethanol. That's the good side of running E gas. All engines likes cold intake, and everything that can reduce the running temp of an air cooled engine is a plus in my book. There should be no mentionable concerns using high octane fuel, and certainly not anything in the "normal" range up to 95 or 98 which was common in ye olden days. My guess is that CAT has just dropped the minimum requirements spec book, and let the office apprentice put it together again
  4. Engine Oil Recommendations

    Yeah I just found out that Castrol also has come up with 5w50 and 10w60. They say the same thing, and cars like BMW M series is factory with this oil now. It performs better in the higher temps that these engines can produce internally under load. Don't see why it should'ent be a + to have better high temp performance in air cooled engines. I'll get a hold of it in my next shipment, and try it out. The same story was told when 0w40 was new to market, and so on so forth. New oils are newer (or extremely rarely) developed for garden machine engines, it's just adapted----slowly----- IF religion permits...... Good thing it ain't like that with tires. We would all be driving on white wall radials then. The Zinc additive is of no concern when using the really good modern oils, as the shear strength is so much higher. The Zinc act like a lubricating barrier, kind of like the lead did in gas once (bad example maybe). It was primarily a way of improving the load carrying quality of the oil. I'm not gonna trow more gas on the fire here, just aiming to round it of with the only thing I guess the different religions can agree on: Change it often. that is the most important thing of all!
  5. Engine Oil Recommendations

    Looking at viscosity charts, oil has evolved quite a bit since then. much more uniform viscosity over the temp span. The DPF and CAT complaint ones even burn as clean as modern two stroke oil, which is basically zero deposits. If it was available, I would use full synthetic 0W50, but evolution hasn't given us that yet. Not meaning to turn this into another battle between science and religion.
  6. Engine Oil Recommendations

    I wont hesitate recommending Castrol Edge Titanium as one of the really good options. I run that in 0W40 version in all my engines.
  7. A salute to the good old twin Kohlers

    My thoughts also. No I have no idea what it was, but it looked like the stuff that comes out of an 8 speed tranny when they are worst. Im thinking that some decent guy had it long ago, and gave it some really good oil, and then it got sold to whom ever did this to it. My guess would be a really good full synthetic long life oil. That's pretty much the only thing I can see would still provide just a smear of protection in that condition.
  8. A salute to the good old twin Kohlers

    Unfortunately I did not take any during this process, but I can grab a few of it now that its done and ready to go. Ain't a beauty queen though
  9. So in my initial investigating of Wheel Horse, trying to figure out what would suit me, I had a craving for the larger Kohler twin engines. But I often stumbled upon opinions and comments on the big Kohlers that went something like this: Prone to failure!! Will explode if your lawn is not 100% flat, due to bad lubrication. Bad cooling, will loose compression on at least one cylinder. Costly to repair. Not long lived Would prefer a single cylinder any day! Etc. Etc. Well, I know this is the nay sayers version, but still this is something I came across often, and it almost made me back out of my wish to have a big twin. Luckily it did not, I took the chance, and have had the pleasure of a few of these wonderful engines. In fact I spend the last week rescuing a 417-A, that turned out to be quite the opposite story. It was a hugely neglected non runner to start with. Rusty, like it had been sitting outside its entire life. Clutch was worn to bare metal. I pulled the tractor apart, and it was obvious it had been run to the ground, and then some. Highly creative wiring and a failed attempt to install an electric fuel pump, due to the OE pump having died, probably persuaded the PO JA ,to let it go. The rest of the tractor took some work and paint and patience, but it became decent. The thing of amazement was that Kohler KT17. It had newer been of the frame, that much was certain. It had no air filter, No cab over the points, Oil substitute was more brown gray than black. There was no spark, there was no side tins on the engine to guide the airfow. There was no screen on the flywheel. Most cooling ribs and the backside of the flywheel was densely filled with many years buildup of hard grass compost mud gunk. And the carb was jerry rigged to bypass the governor and run full throttle, and full of gunk, and leaking from rock hard gaskets. Oh and there was no fuel filter of cause, not that it matters in this picture anyway. I was thinking this was a write off, and looked over to a line of repower options I have on the shelve. After all this had been running on something that may have been oil many years ago, and proper cooling was not in it's vocabulary. Then I got a bit crossed with the stupid doorknob that had treated it like that, and decided to give it a try. I took it a bit apart, flywheel and so, and gave it a go with the pressure washer. Next I tested the compression to see if there was meaning in doing more, and to my surprise, it had good and almost uniform compression. Had not seen that coming for sure, so I gave it new points, condenser, plugs, oil, air filter, rebuild the carb and set it up with governor etc. Rewired the tractor completely, including the electric fuel pump. You know what! It fired straight up, and now it purrs away with no bad sounds or anything. This is where the Nay sayers will jump inn and say " Yes well we do not know how many hours was on it, and bla. bla. bla.". Well yes that is also true, and kind of part of the amazing story. The hour meter stopped working at some point in time, only God knows when..............At 2.137 hours.!!!! So yeah, we do not know how many hours is on it, but likely a bit more to be cautious. I don't know about you all, but I think this is a statement on rugged reliability, under really the worst conditions I can imagine. My hat is off to Kohler for making these engines.
  10. Best model for parts availability

    It being for a yard business, raises the question: What will it eventually be used for? I mean, I second what has been said, but would like to add this: Hydro for mowing is sweet, and the hydraulic lift mid and rear is priceless. I would go for the biggest single cylinder for lowest maintenance cost, and I would not give a hut if its an early C or a 3-4-5 series. I would find one with an eaton 1100 rearend, and then I would strip all electronics and do a no nonsense wiring for reliability. Just my The big single will pull the 48" with ease, and till and what not without being strained. In my mind it is better to have power ENOUGH, than to have maybe adequately enough . I would suggest C-160, C-165, 414, 416 etc. Yes the 416 can be a single, albeit an 8 speed. (not saying twins are bad, just a potentially more expensive engine to service.) The above would make a rugged, plenty powerful, no nonsense, lowish cost/price gardening machine, that can last long and do most everything. Again, just my on this specific situation.
  11. Starter motor

    Hi Neil I may have a few extra starters laying around. I'm in Denmark, so no biggie to send it over. Just let me know if the need arises.
  12. PTO clutch material thickness ? C195

    Yeah that's what I have heard too, but the clutch on a C195 is not just a flat clutch disk like on the other models. It is a conical shape with 4 pads on. But you are correct, there is supposed to be a deere part that will fit. Just can't find it.
  13. PTO clutch material thickness ? C195

    Yeah that is for the pto brake Good try though! If I find a source for the correct clutch material I will let you all know Any input is really welcome........
  14. Need Help

    My is that a C160 hydro/auto can plow, till and all just fine. Just a bit altered technique you have to use. Most important to me is, that when you have the hydraulic lift of attachments, you newer want to be without it. I for one will newer revert to manual shift again. Sorry to hear about your loss in the fire. I know how I would have felt
  15. Towing with 314-8

    It can easily move it if you can get enough traction. My old c120 towed a 2 ton car with 4 flat tires on tarmac no problem. a 2 ton agricultural roller on grass however was a pita. Be sure not to tip it over and hurt yourself, when using it for those things that in reality calls for something bigger
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