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The Gman

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About The Gman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1987 312-8 (upgraded to a 417), the beast
    1989 520, project
    1971 A800 Ranger
    1970 Electro 12
    1982 SK486
    1976 C120, 61-12KS01
    1971 800 special, 1-0150-6, 785181
    1964 Lawn Ranger, sn 15247
    1972 Massey 12
    1989 212-H, 3212Be01, 46508, sn9024
    1974 C160, 1-0380-9 sn65651
    1988 212-6, 3212K602, 34091
    1988 257H
    1978 c-161, 81-16B8
    1990 520H
    1982 SK486
    1980/83, C-175
    1987 418-8


    Coming soon
    1960 400 Suburban

    Bigger toys
    1968 Massey 35 deluxe
    1975 Massey 1085
    1973 Massey 135
    400 series case loader

    And a car
    1927 model T tudor
  • favoritemodel
    312-8

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Occupation
    Manufacturing engineer
  • Interests
    Golf, camping, anything small engine, woodworking,

Recent Profile Visitors

1,646 profile views
  1. Wheel horse 310-8

    Be sure to go to the search icon, then select all content then select files and enter in 310-8 and search. More there than you could imagine. Your engine, switch, wiring diagram and more.......
  2. Wheel horse 310-8

    The test button, sometimes a little spring toggle switch just checks that all the bulbs in the test panel work. If it's there..... the oil sensor should be on the passenger side...... (haha haha like it's a car or something). Near the engine base pointing towards the rear. That's were it is on the 12's. If is does in fact disable the engine startup I expect it would be interlocked into the kill wire providing a short to ground. I'd have to look at my 12. It's up at the farm helping out a Massey 12 until I get around to rebuilding it's hh120.
  3. Wheel horse 310-8

    Not sure about the 10's but the 12's have a low oil sensor ( internal float) of sorts. Should prevent it from starting if the oil is low although not entirely sure. Especially if it's been disconnected.
  4. Wheel horse 310-8

    While your at it and if you're up to it...... since the head and valve cover will be off why not lap the valves while you're in there. Might help the smoke a bit. Just be sure to check and adjust the valve clearance after.
  5. C120 ready to restore........???

    It's rustoleum apple red. Looks like fire red in the shade which is still a shade or more up from regal red. My neice's favorite colour is baby blue. I said....that ain't happining so she picked apple red. Whewwwww........ avoided a clan war.
  6. Thinking about it.

    Would it take six or eight 6volt batteries and would they need to be deep cylcle? Brushed or brushless motors? It is from the guy with the mega collection. He knew nothing about it. Waiting for some or the "e wh" guys to come along. ☺🐾🐾🐾
  7. Saving another from scrap!!

    Must be a spare for those road trips. My Silverado had dual tanks
  8. I'm in the hmmmmm, thinking should I shouldn't I on an electric model I saw a few weeks ago No batteries, the motor spins on the tractor What should I ask, look at and look for? What do I need to bring as a minimum to test both motors?
  9. Ran out of oil!

    Two sidways and fuzzy pics of the two lub systems on the series II.
  10. Ran out of oil!

    A couple of quickie suggestions for you if you don't have a compression tester. Fire it up then pull a plug wire or fire it up with one wire off then repeat with the other wire. Pull the suspected spark plug out if you find a problem with one cylinder and put your thumb or finger over the plug hole to feel for pressure. Glove yourself if it hot in there. If you find a bad cylinder but think you have compession remove the valve cover and look for a broken spring. Then of course there's the spark at the plugs, check them too. I'm sure you realize a thrown rod is a disaster waiting to happen every time you start it or turn it over. The block is aluminum. Kinda like the tazmainam devil in a box. Waiting for the diagnosis..............
  11. C120 ready to restore........???

    And some are destined to serve others. This one just donated it's lift arm for a plow on the sk486 I'm refreshing for my neice. She's on a limited budget, lives a little north of me and is in the snow belt. Her 8 hp 26 wide big box store walker just doesn't cut it (clear it ). She's getting this for 1/2 of what I paid for it and at my cost for parts. Why, its family and because I love what I do. She picked the colour, so long as it was red. Not a resoration, but strong, stout and proud again thanks to some othe horses. Gonna buy and donate a full decal set to the cause as well. Good for another 30 years I'd say.
  12. C120 ready to restore........???

    Been thinking about doing that just to keep it all together in one place.
  13. C120 ready to restore........???

    Me neither. It is so beaten and broken down. I know all about the quick fix, but this was the poster child for it!!!!!
  14. You got to know it's gonna be a whopper when the ad says this and no pics because the cameras on the fritz. Too much wrong, abused and hacked to make it roll again. Didn't want to see it go to waste so it will donate itself for parts. The deck and thrower are salvagable and maybe the tranny. At worst the tranny can be a learning experience for me. It is sad to see but I'll put it to good use. The engine is worth rebuilding. I'm not the greatest welder but........ wow what a mess.
  15. How do you build battery cables?

    Have been making my own for a few years now. I buy good quality mig ground cable from princess auto, the stuff with high silicone content in the jacket. Then clean the inside of the lug with a little wire brush and flux it. Strip the cable end so about 1/16 will stick out and flux the cable too. Set up in the vise with a 5/32 drill shank and the lug and squish it down with the wire in it. Heat and solder fill till it comes to the top. Then clean with alcohol and heat shrink. I've done them without solder and never had one come loose even though it's not a true toothed crimp. Works for me
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