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About Bahmi

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    Willington, Connecticut

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  1. Battery light on after starting

    My tractor is a '99. Initially, the battery light did not stay on for over 2-3 minutes, then it went off. I found the battery good, measuring 12.8 volts but I did not measure it running. The last 2 days have seen the battery light off while running. Off completely. We'll see what happens the next few days. I might add that the tractor is one terrific unit. It runs like an old Caddie.....smooth as silk, quiet, and it runs the 48" decks easily and smooth as can be. Tractor came with the deck and the deck powered 2 bag pick up unit. Tractor will be put up for sale in the near future. Just too big for my angular lawn with the small size and contours that are not suited for the xi. I don't use a snow blower on the driveway, either. Great unit nonetheless.
  2. Battery light on after starting

    When you have a problem that you can't solve, it's kinda nice to do something you failed to fully understand. I took the air hose and nozzle gun and blew all the dirt, dust, oil soaked dirt, etc off the machine and engine, specifically. I changed the filter and the oil. I then started up the engine and there was NO battery light on. Why is this so? What did I do to remove this problem from my tractor? Well, best answer is "I don't know". We can surmise that cleaning up the engine allowed for better electrical contacts, maybe. New oil? Can't see how that would turn the battery light off. Any suggestions as to what I actually did to fix this battery light situation?
  3. My 520xi starts well but the battery light stays on for around 2 minutes or so. Battery tests good at 12.9 volts. After the 2 minutes is up, the light gradually goes out. Fuses look OK. No damage noted on wires. What is happening?
  4. Just cleaning up the new acquisition, the 520xi. Want to drain oil, cannot find the drain plug. Where she be? Has the Kohler Command engine.
  5. 312-8 electrical woes

    My, my, aren't we pedantic. So, I can't ask questions, I just have to be a robot and take whatever as some kind of absolute? You have the wrong fella to make those kinds of demands. I'm supposed to go around in circles because somebody has a whim? I think you need to realize my asking questions is not some kid's exercise. If that's your feeling, jump off the train and let somebody else deal with my question with a bit of humility. You think I am challenging your knowledge by asking questions? How wrong you are.
  6. 312-8 electrical woes

    What are the real chances I have a "bad cable"? It's multi-filament, tough, wiry, and is not under mechanical stress. I'd also assume that IF the cable burned out between solenoid and starter terminal that there would be a melted spot along that cable between these 2 points.
  7. 312-8 electrical woes

    H How about putting a screwdriver between the purple wire that comes from the switch, through the fuse on the right side wall and the battery terminal +? This would allow the current to go through the solenoid to the starter terminal. If the starter does not run, it means it is defective. Not eloquent, but does it make any sense?
  8. 312-8 electrical woes

    Tractor model number is 312-8. Serial number is 1112K604 21306? not sure what these last 5 numbers mean. Part of serial# or something else?
  9. 312-8 electrical woes

    I've noticed that after turning the key "ON", then turning it "OFF", there is a ticking sound for upwards of 30 seconds, almost like a ticking clock sound. What could this be? I don't know where the sound is coming from.
  10. 312-8 electrical woes

    One part of this situation should address the observation that the tractor worked on Tuesday and no longer on Wednesday. It was a sudden occurrence. This factor seems to indicate that some possibilities can be eliminated immediately. There is virtually no reason to think the wires to and from the solenoid "suddenly broke" and then delivered no current to the starter. Are all "safety switches really necessary"? Can some be turned off? Would this help in diagnosis? What switches should be turned off and what should remain on to try and diagnose this problem of non-starting?
  11. 312-8 electrical woes

    All connections have been cleaned up. In connection with my hunch, I crossed the poles of the solenoid and got nothing. No spark, no start, nothing. Battery is virtually new and tested nearly 13V. Load test showed vitality. I replaced the ignition switch and air filter. I have not yet jumped the starter terminal. Should this be the next test I do?
  12. As a very recent new owner of a 312-8, I found the tractor starting and running well. Yesterday, on the 3rd day anniversary of ownership, I found the starter switch to be corroded and non-functional. The starter would not work at all. I replaced the starter switch and one of the fuses. Still nothing. All other switches appear to be good and functional. Could the solenoid be the culprit? I put in the new switch, feeling that would do the trick, but it did not. Nothing changed appreciably from about 4 days prior. It started well before, but nothing doing today. I checked all contacts to insure no rust and poor contacts. Would bet my bottom dollar on the solenoid, but I might have omitted inspection of some other wire or contact. What is the consensus on this starting problem?
  13. I ran and mowed with my new, to me, 312-8 today. Went about 20 minutes. Engine was then shut down for 15 minutes. Tried to start it again, nothing happened. Nothing. Is this characteristic of some well known problem with the engine or carburetor? Where do I start to diagnose this quirk? thanks While running, the engine at higher speeds and while just sitting still, was searching. Run, search, run, search. No adjustment seemed to make any difference.
  14. Growing Pains

    I had a feeling the key(#18) was missing. It rained today so I could not go outside and do much, but I sneaked a half hour to grease the machine, blow off dust, a general clean up. As I rotated the adjusting arm downward, I reached in with my right hand and noticed a plate of sorts, possibly an arm with some holes in it. I get the feeling #21 is broken off or missing. The end fits into the arm with three holes in it, vertically speaking, and clearly this was not happening. I need to put the back wheels up on blocks and get a better look at the underbelly mechanism. Had I remembered this diagram, I would have realized the #21 pin was missing and the nose was not sticking through the hole drilled in part #19. Once through the hole, the pin is slid into the small hole and is thereby retained. Then, downward movement of the long arm will allow the mower lift pin to drop down. Or so I think......
  15. Growing Pains

    When you push the button down on top of the adjusting shaft and move the arm forward, the deck does not move downward. The shaft has no weight on it, in other words. The lifting mechanism is detached from the deck, or so it feels.