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TC10284

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About TC10284

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    520-H, 414-8, 312-8

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lexington, NC
  1. So far I believe adjusting the PTO "thing" has made a difference. I turned it toward the seat instead of toward the engine. Went through as thick of grass as I could find, and also cut down some old corn stalks and it didn't stop the blades anywhere near as much. I adjusted it a couple more turns for good measure after that and it still does well.
  2. The 414 clutch related stuff should be new. What area of it do you need me to take a better pic of? Will try the adjustment method and see how it goes.
  3. Sorry I'm just now getting back to you guys. I had some stuff going on and then came down with a cold for most of the week, so I didn't feel much like messing with the decks. Well I did today finally, and the loss of power issue stayed with the 414-8 tractor. After I put the rear discharge on the 312-8, it mowed really well. So, I'm not sure what's going on. Should I adjust the PTO? Here's a few pics of the 414-8 PTO (top two). The last pic is of the 312-8 PTO: https://imgur.com/a/bbdhh I'm thinking about trying to adjust it using this method:
  4. I'm thinking this is the most likely scenario as well. How can I determine if it's slipping? I did notice yesterday that it seemed like it took longer for the blades on the RD deck to rotate at full speed in comparison to how long it takes the blades to hit full rotation on the side discharge deck. Yeah, nothing like that for me. It's worse than my side discharge with weaker engine. I'm using 2nd gear. The deck stays clean. I always spray the underside out as best as possible after every use.
  5. I have a 414-8 with a rear discharge deck. It seems like it gets bogged down pretty easily compared to my side discharge on a 312-8. Comparing the two, I can cut through thicker grass with the side discharge on the 312-8. The belt on that one will actually start to squeal when it gets too thick. On the 414-8, the blades just stop spinning on comparatively less thick grass. I've used both tractors on the same parts of my yard this summer, and the rear discharge deck definitely cannot handle as much as the side discharge. Is this normal? I would have thought that the rear discharge could handle more since it has a bigger opening to throw out clippings, as well as it being on a 14HP vs 12HP engine. As far as I can tell, all belts are tight and not damaged.
  6. Garry, Thanks for sharing that. So if I were to find one with a swept forward front axle, is it able to handle the 60" deck without major parts swapping? Like PTO, idler assembly, etc.
  7. Can you tell if my model originally had the 60" deck as an option, or is it too old? It originally had a 48" on it. Hate to change it over if the year model didn't have that as an option.
  8. I noticed that after I took the pics, but that's when I noticed after I swapped it to the lower, that it was too long. Are you saying I have the mower drive belt (1/2") in place of the spindle belt (5/8")? It's not being used yet, so it's not going to get messed up until we can fix it.
  9. Thanks for the info. I'm having some difficulty finding relevant info when I search the forum for "axle conversion", "520 conversion", and "swept axle conversion". I've also not had much luck with those terms on Google.
  10. Hello, I just put a 60" mower on my 520H that originally had a 48" and quickly found that the front wheels rub the deck. Can you guys tell me what parts I need to convert my straight front axle to swept? Is it just the swept axle like this or do I need other stuff as well? **Note ebay link was deleted by moderators per the rules. Here's some pics of the model number of the tractor (under the seat) and a printed manual I found (on here) that matched up with the mower deck. I will be repainting the hood and some other parts soon, once I figure out about the axle. Lastly, what length of belt do I need that goes from the PTO to the main pulley of the deck? The one I have is a bit too long - 102" and I've ran the tensioner out as far as it will go. Thanks!
  11. 414-8 Voltmeter Gone Funky

    Thanks! Very impressive, sir!
  12. 414-8 Voltmeter Gone Funky

    An update: This evening I took the ignition switch out and cleaned all the contacts with electrical contact cleaner. No luck after I did that. So I went deeper and cleaned as many electrical contacts as I could find. After I got everything back together, I tried it out. The onboard voltmeter immediately went to 12v. When I started it up and opened the throttle half way, it went up to 14v! When I opened it all the way, it went to almost 15v! I don't know which connector it was, but it seems it fixed it. I mowed for about 10min and it stayed a solid 14.8v the whole time. I don't know if this will be a permanent fix or not, but so far it's working! Also, regarding the switch, the model number on it is: 111215 Here's a few pics.
  13. 414-8 Voltmeter Gone Funky

    Man, you guys really know your stuff... I'm impressed! I do know that the lights won't come on unless the engine is running, and that they will get brighter as you open the throttle. I'll check on the ignition switch when I can and let you guys know. It may be another day or so though.
  14. 414-8 Voltmeter Gone Funky

    Sigh. No luck there either. For an update, I did some jiggling around on some cables near the voltmeter and noticed that sometimes when I jiggled the key in the switch, it would make the voltmeter "jump" - meaning fall to 8v a couple times, then go back up to 12v. I noticed Saturday when I took that part of the dash out, that some of the switch connectors were pretty rusty. Is it possible that a poor connection on the switch is causing it?
  15. 414-8 Voltmeter Gone Funky

    OK, so here's a pic I took of the serial tag. Unfortunately it's a little degraded. Unless it's in another location, that's the best I can do. From what I can read, it says 3114R80...
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