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Rob XC700

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About Rob XC700

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/22/1966

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1988 414-8
  • favoritemodel
    GT-14

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hillsdale, Ontario
  • Occupation
    Past Auto Technician / Current Door Hardware Purchaser
  • Interests
    Reno's, Snowmobiling, Muscle Cars, and now vintage lawn tractors.

Recent Profile Visitors

266 profile views
  1. That's why I wasn't sure which way to go. I don't like anything seized. Change of plans. No Loctite...apply anti-seize. Get it adjusted and locked, then add grease or anti-seize to the exterior threads to protect. Check periodically to confirm everything is the way it should be. I'm a snowmobiler, and that's how I put my sled suspension together. No Loctite, ant seize and check after every ride. Hasn't failed me in 30 years.
  2. Thanks Jim for the offer. Fastenal is just a walk across the parking lot from my office. That's fast and easy. Now some of those more difficult parts I might be looking for in the future I might need to ask for some assistance from my Wheel Horse friends south of the border. Thanks for the tip about the blue loctite. I was thinking I should use some. The threads in the trans were perfectly clean. The set screw was actually broken off on the external side. Nut and part of the set screw missing. I was able to just wind remaining piece out with my fingers. How did you know I was power shifting? I guess mentioning using the dozer blade gave it away...forward, reverse, forward, reverse...and continue to repeat a few dozen more times....
  3. Ordered 3 each 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Hex Drive Full Dog Point Set Screws from the Fastenal today. $1.50 each. That's an expense we can handle. Yes 2 spares for stock.
  4. Thanks everyone. I found the YouTube video that showed the overhaul procedure and he identified the 2 shift forks and how they need to be aligned. It all made sense from there. I made sure it was rolling back and forth in gear Blocked the wheels stuck my finger down the hole and confirmed it was in neutral. I didn't have time to find a set screw. I found a screw that already had a tip on it. It took about 10 minutes and a file to get it to the correct size. Worked perfect. I will locate the correct screw over the next week or so. I'm sure it's a better grade of steel. I will check out the previous threads for "loose Shifter" as well. I don't know why I didn't think of that at the time. Thanks for that reminder, so I do that first next time. I guess I was in a panic. Had a trailer full of dirt and that tractor is the only thing I have that will pull it up the hill. I love low range. Good news is, I was only down for about an hour and got "Edward" back to work pushing dirt and pulling my loaded trailer.
  5. Thanks mikeeyre74 Went out and took a look. Screw broken off on the external side, so it backed out over time. I found a bolt with the end already ground on the end. Just not enough, so I well grind down to size. Now I just have to figure out where the end drops into in the transmission. Diagram not detailed enough and the seat pan hole isn't in a good position to see "straight down" the hole in the trans. I see a square slot, but that doesn't make sense since the shifter is a round ball on the end....
  6. Hi Guys, Help!!! In the middle of moving a pile of dirt and my shifter stopped going into gear and the handle lifted out. Obviously the small knob on the end goes into a socket in the transmission, but what holds it in there? I don't have to do a major overhaul to get this thing going again do I? I see in the diagram a "Special Set Screw" and a nut. I will go look at it. What's so special about the set screw? Besides it being special when the shifter comes out lol...
  7. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    Glad to hear that was it. No more Electrical trouble shooting. At least you know what the fuel problem is as well. Sounds like you bought his first tractor and he didn't know how to look after it. Now it's time for him to buy his own and see what it costs to not look after it. Probably burnt out the old solenoid trying to get it started.
  8. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    Ok, I just learned something new here. I was a Ford Technician. A Ford solenoid would not ground that extra terminal. It would be marked with an "I" and run to the coil to give it 12v on start up. I never would have even considered it was a ground. I just assumed all solenoids would ground through the mounting bracket. Thanks 953 nut for the lesson. "You can teach an old dog new tricks". Fingers crossed that fixes it. On another note, my horse started every time this weekend. Apparently it' confirmed mine was a bad ground from the bracket to the chassis. Funny if this fixes GREYGHOST...we had the same problem!
  9. DOZER BLADE BRACKET ANGLE SPACER

    I no longer believe it's a critical item. When I first questioned it, I thought it may be an angle spacer because the axle housing was tapered towards the axle. I didn't think it was, but thought maybe it could be. Obviously it's not. I thought of the same thing; placing tubing over the bolts. I'm not going to do anything now I know what they are and just make sure the front bolts are against the axle housing. No need to make it complicated. Now if you were doing a full on restoration, you would need it to make it correct.
  10. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    OK....what year is this tractor? I was going by the previously posted wiring diagram. It was for an 87-88. This would change everything.
  11. DOZER BLADE BRACKET ANGLE SPACER

    I don't believe they make a big enough difference that anyone would even notice. I'm just a little OCD...lol.... Working as an automotive technician in the past, manufacturers won't typically provide anything that would cost a dime more if it's not necessary. It's just a small detail to make sure your bolts are against the front of the axle when installing and it's all good.
  12. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    OK, I'm the last person wanting to give the wrong diagnosis here. The service bulletin and the wiring diagram contradict each other. The bulletin states that the oil switch is normally open when the oil level is correct/full. The wiring diagram shows it as N/C!!! "Starter Motor Circuit" (ignition switch in "start") If the oil switch isn't closed then the Switching Relay won't receive 12v and energize. Am I missing something here? Tractor 1987-1988 312-8 Wiring Detailed _492-4509.pdf
  13. DOZER BLADE BRACKET ANGLE SPACER

    I looked at mine tonight. One side against the back (incorrect), the other side against the front as it should be. I guess I will need to adjust it. I think I'll wait until the weekend when I put the blade back on. I'll put the blade on the snowmobile dollies so it moves freely, do a reference measurement, adjust and re-measure. Then we will see if it makes that big of a difference.
  14. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    Nope the other way around. It should be N/C (normally closed) when oil level is correct. You need 12 volts through the sensor to trip the switching relay.
  15. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    LOL, no worries, we've all done stuff like that. Remember I forgot to disengage my PTO and it led to more T/S than necessary on Sunday. Over one hurdle and on to the next. Do you now have power at the battery wire at the B terminal of the ignition switch? If not do as 953 nut suggested and run battery "+" to the "B" terminal on the ignition switch and report back. If you do, do you have power at the "S" terminal with the ignition switch in the start position? If you do then just start following down the line to each component on the wiring diagram and see if you have power. Sometimes more beneficial to go backwards from the solenoid depending how hard it is to get at each component. Let us know what you find.
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