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SRB

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About SRB

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/15/1976

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    79' C101-8
    74' C120 auto
    00' 17-44HXL (first rider I ever bought)
    76' JD 400 (shh, don't tell anybody but it was my first GT)
  • favoritemodel
    C101

Profile Information

  • Location
    St. Charles IA
  • Occupation
    Self-employed JOAT

Recent Profile Visitors

340 profile views
  1. Yes it did rjg854. I was pleasantly surprised. I am also surprised you are the only one that has commented on the wheel weights. They alone were worth it for me. I have wanted a set of factory WH weights since I got my C-101 last year. Does anyone know the history of the WH weights? Some are red in color and others are ivory in color. Which are the older, red or ivory? Style differences, etc? The plow and snow thrower will get sold as I already have both. They will help recoup the funds spent on the whole package.
  2. 953 nut, yes the oil pan and dipstick do look to be the original as they both have remnants of red paint on them. It is a lot bigger oil pan than my 79' C-101 has, that's for sure.
  3. Thank you for the reply Garry. Has Kohler ever put the build date in their serial numbers? Also, in a 10 digit code, the first two numbers being the year, if the next three where the date code for the day of the year wouldn't that mean they could produce 99,999 per day? Thank you everyone for the great info. I apologize for the late response but I am not getting email notifications for replies.
  4. So I brought home another horse this weekend. It's a 1976 C-120 8 speed. 61-12K802 - 14063 / 6071. After cleaning it all up I found someone has painted the rear wheel JD yellow...with a brush I think! I'll never understand why people do that kind of thing but I guess that's just me. The thing that really jumped out at me was the engine though. It is completely primer gray, block, tins, coil, breather, and it says on the label "Export or Replacement engine". I have heard of these before but haven't found a whole lot of info out there about them. Some blue, some primer gray. I think the year is a 1998 made on the 194th day. It has a 10 digit serial number, the first two digits are 28, and the next three are 194. Does that sound right? I am a junkie about the history of a machine, so I love to research and find out all the little details. The engine runs great the little bit I have ran it, which was just to load and unload it. The oil looks new and it's been parked in a garage since last year. Overall, the tractors in decent shape. It needs new front tires or tubes, steering links (which I have), a headlight lens, some wiring repaired, and some rear end leaks fixed. At least that's all I've found while I was cleaning it up. Oh, and the back wheels repainted! What do you all know about these replacement engines? Would someone have ordered the engine and done the swap themselves, or was this a dealer thing that they would have taken it in to the local WH dealer to have done? What year did Kohler start doing these replacement engines and what year did they stop? Also, the debri screen on the front of engine is plastic, when did they change over from metal screens?
  5. I have for sale a 1990 Toro Wheel Horse 520H with 934 hours on a working hour meter (shows 933 in photo but has been ran since). Model number 4120OE01. It is being sold with a 48" side discharge mower deck, a 48" snow dozer blade (no extension kit), front and rear tire chains and a homemade set of concrete wheel weights. The known wiring harness problems have been addressed and the factory fuse block removed and replaced with new inline fusible links that have been soldered and heat shrinked, several wiring connectors have been replaced, and all safety switches and gauges tested and work. This has the 20HP Onan P220 engine that starts up and runs great. It has a fresh oil change with a Napa Gold filter and Napa premium oil . The hydro is strong in forward and reverse. It has newer Deestone bar ag tires on the rear which have one season of mowing and plowing on them. The front tires have tubes in them. It has new bushings installed on the PTO lever and brake pedal. A new return spring installed on the PTO lever. The brake and hydro linkage have been adjusted and work work well. The hydraulic cylinder leaks a little but comes with a rebuild kit for it that is included in the sale. The seat has some open cracks and the front of the hood has a little damage. Overall a good tractor for the ageThe mower deck is in good overall condition but does have one hole through the side of the deck (see photos). Spindles spin free and smooth, and blades are good shape. It has new (last year) genuine Toro greasable rear wheels installed on it. Part of the knob on the front mule drive is broke off but still works as it should. Both belts are in working order.The snow blade is in great condition. It has a super heavy duty custom cutting edge on it (see photos). It does not have the 520H forward swept front axle extension kit on it, but one can be purchased from www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com as well as many other optional parts for these machines. Without the extension kit, the blade rubs the front tires when in the angled position, and the front of the right footrest has been bent up to accommodate the angle lever handle. Thank you, Ron
  6. Thank you for the tip 953 nut. I am excited to get this back together.
  7. No worries, and your right, regardless, it is a solid motor. Hmm....interesting. So does that mean once I reach my limit I can't post any more pictures ever, unless I become a "supporter"?
  8. Is there a technique one can do with plasticgauge that checks out-of-roundness of the rod journal? Also I have not found anywhere that says to use plasticgauge on bearingless rods like these small engines use. Does one use it on these small engines like you would on engines with bearings? This is the first small engine I tore into with the intent of rebuilding it.
  9. Considering the history of the tractor that I know and the original documentation I have for the tractor, engine, mower deck, and snow thrower, including the original warranty cards still in the original letters and envelope I personally do believe it is all original. Especially considering how meticulous the original owner was, I can't see him changing the engine and putting the original SN decal engine shroud on a different motor. If he changed the engine, I would have all the info for that engine. This is model years when they used K301 blocks bored to the K241 specs in order to use up end of the run production inventory, so it has the K301 casted block.
  10. Took it to a show and swap meet a couple of weeks ago and had a great time, funny thing was is John Deere was the featured tractor this year and as you can see in the pics they were out numbered. It was only the second year for this show. It is held in Osceola, Iowa, and a couple of fellow Wheel Horse enthusiast got it started last year. We had about 25 more machines this year, so it's growing. Okay, picture size limits are fighting me so will add another post. Okay, apparently I can't post ANY more pictures at all! Whats with that?!
  11. So the old Kohler K241 in my C-101 seemed to have developed a quiet knock once it got warmed up and under load. Since, to my knowledge, it is the original engine and has not been touched other than routine maintenance, and I need to replace some gaskets because of oil leaks, I decided to pull it out of the tractor and tear it down and inspect it. After putting a mic to everything the only thing I can tell it may be, is the rod journal on the crank, it is slightly out of round but I think still with in specs. Granted, I don't have expensive measurement tools, my micrometer is a dial mic and only goes out to .001. So the crank rod journal spec is 1.500 and that is what it measures one way and 90 degrees to that it measures 1.499. See specs below. I did check the valve clearance after tearing it down on both valves, The intake valve was good at .009 and the exhaust valve was over at .020 so I brought it down to .018, would the exhaust valve being over gapped ever so slightly have been the knock that I was hearing? At this point I think I am planning on honing the bore, installing new rings and putting it back together. Here are the specs and numbers; Piston New spec. 3.2432" wear limit 3.238 My piston 3.240 Cylinder bore parallel to stroke top 3.249 Middle 3.249 bottom 3.250 Cylinder bore perpendicular to stroke Top 3.250 Mid 3.249 Bot 3.249 My Rod journal measured inline with rod length 1.500 Measured perpendicular to rod length 1.500 Crank rod journal spec New 1.5000/1.4995 max wear 1.4990 Max out of round .0005 My crank rod journal measured centered inline with bore (Piston rod at bottom of stroke) 1.499 Measured off set from bore (piston rod half way up/down stroke) 1.500 Like I said, my mic only measures out to .001 so the crank rod journal measurements are what may be in question at this point. But, even so, I don't see anything that explains a quiet knock under load after it is warmed up. Any ideas? Oh yeah, there was quit a bit of carbon build up on top of the valves, around the valves, on the top of the piston and on the cylinder head. Towards the to of the first photo you can see an entire ridge of carbon along the gasket surface between the exhaust valve and piston. The third pic is the inside of the oil pan after just taking it off, that is how clean the inside of a 38 year old engine can be when it is properly maintained. You could have white glove tested it, I couldn't believe it!
  12. 1st wheel Horse!!!

    Welcome to the club leepster! I am a WH babe as well getting my first a couple months ago. Ron
  13. I love this little C-101! Changed the seat over and installed the blade and played with it a little yesterday. Looking for a rock shaft for it though so I can play with the tiller.
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