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About Oldman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday December 27

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1964-5 1045 & HY3 Pump
    1277/1477 "wheel-o-matic" and Haban Sicklebar
    Classic 312-8
    Raider 10 (Tecumseh)
    18 Auto (1" axle upgrade)-Loaded.
    A 90 Special Kohler K241AS & Generator.
  • favoritemodel
    !054 & HY-3

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    South Central,PA
  • Occupation
  • Interests
    Manic Mechanic is my name Wheel Horse is my game..
    Tractor's and related equipment.
    Shooting paper at the range.
    Arch-Top Guitar's

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. 1973 18 Auto Voltmeter Mod

    Sort of like this....... Oldman
  2. Hello, I didn't recall the number and I just repainted everything, dah-hah! It read 532 as well. 20hp? I run 10W-30.I usually remove the low idle screw and spray through with cleaner, then take my finger and cover the opening while it's running, block and unblock the passage and it opens up nicely, then install it set 1-1/4 turn. I think the little springs on those screws wear out and vibrate open? Oh, this whole machine was butchered, everywhere! The PTO clutch didn't even have the bearing sleeve on the back of the clutch plate, just rolled all over the place making sparks! Amazing how people just wing it. How hard is it to ask a few questions? Yes, built extremely well, times have changed. Finding that clutch plate took two years! I had it engineered to work with another set up on the backside of the plate until the correct part was found. How do you crimp those little brass rivets on the clutch pads? Do you have a small rivet press or something? Oldman
  3. 1973 18 Auto Voltmeter Mod

    Yes, I know, it's the Wing Series. I have one sitting in the box for when this one craps out on me! I have an ammeter in one of my other tractors than gets droplets in it and it still keeps on working, been meaning to change it. Oldman
  4. Hello, I tried to rework the Ammeter Circuit and decided it a simpler task to replace it with a nice Illuminated Volt-Meter.
  5. Excellent! I have the original pump and a replacement shaft, once the time and weather permits, LJ Power will be called for whatever I find needs replaced and whatever they have in stock? The spare hydro motor will be rebuilt as well. Going to pick up a replacement pedal and a spare set of mufflers while they are available. Yes, reverse is slow. I can tap the pedal while going backwards and it'll do fine, but I keep my right hand in the ready position on the motion lever! I had to re-adjust the carb yesterday probably due to temperature? She's a temperamental o'l girl but the relationship is worth it! Ha ha ha!
  6. Wheel Horse D-160 D-180 D-200 Mufflers

    I sent a pm, those I do need!
  7. Ya, I'll be running it parked and tuning the engine and it wants to escape the garage!getting good at grabbing the motion lever just in the nick of time!
  8. Toro 101064 Part 6-28 on the parts list Thank you for looking Oldman
  9. Hello, I am going to set the neutral pedal in sync with the hydro adjustment triangle on the side of my pump. Same principal as the manual having the tractor rear on jacks, loosening the set bolt 3/8th and moving the triangle back and forth via the slot on the triangle, only this time wrapping a bungee-cord around the clutch/neutral pedal securing it tightly in the down position. Start and run the engine as normal, set throttle at 3/4 minimum, begin moving the triangle forward and backward until the wheels cease turning. (Hopefully) Once achieved, set the 3/8th bolt ,turn off the engine and return tractor to the ground. Now it's time for a test run. I believe some fine tuning may be needed on the linkage too, compensating for wear and tear.This is a topic that many people have inquired about and after several collaboration with forum members, perhaps I will achieve "true" neutral having the pedal, triangle and linkage all in sync! I can't take credit for this process, many thanks to Sarge for the technical aspects of this procedure! Well, I followed the procedure and still found my tractor wanting to travel a bit reverse when suspended on stands until I barely touched the motion lever. The adjustment on the triangle could not rectify this. I believe the worn parts need replaced. There is the pedal assembly itself that may be "tweaked" underneath the machine, but very unorthodox! The rod, part number 6-17, I might be able to tweak this a bit, shrinking it slightly, that would correct the over travel, in theory.......I also noticed part number 6-28 the pedal itself, has had a repair on my machine. might consider replacing it.
  10. Say "D"-Man,

                     I have an 18 Auto as you know, should the dynamic brake stop the tractor while traveling in reverse? I usually have to move the motion lever a bit forward to stop. I followed the manual on adjusting the neutral stop, but no matter what, the machine wants to keep rolling while traveling in reverse. Most everyone I have asked just tells me they use the motion control on the 18 Auto. Also, A-Z has a complete turning brake assembly for sale, is that kit a nightmare to install?




    Thank you,


    1. "D"- Man

      "D"- Man

      I know very little about driving and stopping an 18 Automatic, although I have had two 18's, a D-180 and a D-200, I personally have had very little seat {driving} time all but one of the tractors we're purchased not in running condition.  The one that sort of ran only would do so for a short distance, then stop.

      I know the 18's and the D's are designed to stop by simply placing the motion control lever in the neutral position.  

  11. Quite the heard! I have a 312-8 as my main yard machine, clutch is really touchy, likes to do wheelies!
  12. Planned obsolescence . I'll stick with 18 Auto. I am also in want of the infamous C-195! I will use both implements "carefully". I used to assemble and or repair GLG lifts. They leak like crazy! Stay out of the line of fire, get into your skin! However, Tractors are a whole new bread, a bread all of their own per say. The dynamics of the system even mechanicall, I would be lost trying move a decent tractor and know the PTO's and what-not
  13. I cleaned up the blade and put it back on this week. I do cringe whenever I use an implement, hopefully it'll remain a happy machine! I have the rear blade too, but I doubt it is a good idea to use both? I like the compact, four wheel drive? You shouldn't have any traction issues!
  14. That's what I thought was the weakest link too, but then last year the hydro motor slipped a clip ring. The Pump Shaft Spline had begun to wear off too, so I would venture to say the torque wasn't all going to the coupling? I did pick up and extra shaft while it was available, a little on the salty side NOS, over 280.00, so I found a refurb. for 80.00! I ever do tear down on the transaxel I'll upgrade the bolts if they haven't been already. I find these Wheel Horse and a lot of the time things have already been swapped out, motors, transaxel's, etc.