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About 6bg6ga

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/26/1953

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    616Z Its all I have

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  1. Good point and I'm going to add to it. In addition to using either an adhesive label or wire markers I highly recommend using clear heat shrink tubing over the label marker. This way in 10 years and your tracing something out its a simple matter of wiping off the dust and exposing a label that can be read still.
  2. Good question. The acid fumes are generally associated with battery terminal corrosion. The sealed newer batteries don't have quite the problem as the older batteries with the large cell caps. Having said this there still isn't a battery that is going to be free of corrosion therefore normal maintenance procedures should be followed. In other words preventative maintenance should be used. There is no absolute coating one can use in an attempt to get away from corrosion so the best thing is keep it clean as you would your body and the problem won't come up again.
  3. Actually your post ties in with good connections or cleaning up connections so you can get a good connection. Many times I have seen people with cars that won't crank over and its a simple clean the connections on the battery fix. So, the battery is a really good point to start anytime you have a voltage/current problem. Sometimes connections can look great but remember it only takes a minute or two to verify the connection that you thought was good and was actually the problem.
  4. You might want to be a little more specific when trying to describe your problems. First post should have said something like the engine starts most of the time and when it doesn't start right up it will if I jump the solenoid. This would have hastened up the advice and type of advice given to solve your problem. Just a thought. Soldering components on a circuit boar is childs play. First, use a iron/pencil type soldering iron less than 40 watts to limit damage to circuit boards. Sometimes its easier to snip the component leads next to the component and this allows you to use a pair of needle nose plyers to remove the lead once you have the solder heated up. The best method is to use a desoldering station to heat the solder and remove it completely with the use of a vacuum pump.
  5. Ignition switch connectors.

    When you purchase quality connectors that fit properly you don't need the click style simply because they fit very tight. In addition to the "Good" connectors I would suggest purchasing the CORRECT crimp tool for those connectors and it is a T&B crimp tool. The T&B crimp tool as its called don't make the typical flat crimp like the cheap tools do. Instead it actually pushes the metal up to really grip the wire. If you look at the tool you can probably see what I'm trying to explain. This particular tool is made by Klein tool and will do a variety of gauges 22-14 and 10-12
  6. My tractor melted

    If there is room in the engine shroud you could use a Onan http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-For-John-Deere-Onan-318-420-P-B-Engine-16-20HP-/391723779094?hash=item5b348e8416:g:57wAAOSw4CFYwPZg At a cost of $12.66 in place of the more expensive unit. Same hookup (2) AC terminals, one B+(12VDC battery) and the chassis ground to the regulator case. If no room simply mount a 12 vdc fan to cool the regulator case.
  7. My tractor melted

    You are correct. All current passes thru the ammeter and thus the positive leg. Disconnect the positive and your dead in the water.
  8. My tractor melted

    The voltage regulator is more than several diodes and since you cannot take it apart you cannot check it. It contains a few diodes and also regulation that limits the output voltage. My suggestion would be to put it on the bench and feed it AC on the AC terminals, a ground via the case probably, and a battery just like you would have on your tractor. If you happen to have a variac you can easily dial up the AC voltage feeding it and also measure the DC voltage from it as its connected to the battery. If you don't have a variac and happen to have a transformer that is close to the AC that would be supplied from your stator then connect the transformer to the regulators AC input and check the output. Also one might want to make up a cord that has a light bulb in series with the hot leg. Plug the transformer into this cord/receptacle. This will protect the transformer and will light brightly if the regulator is shorted thus saving the transformer you using for test purposes.
  9. My tractor melted

    Actually current runs thru the ammeter not voltage.
  10. I would secure a piece of plywood and attach the existing to the plywood. Use long nails to secure wire so you can make the bends and so forth. I think you can grasp the idea. Design the circuit using the notes and observations from other members here that have done re-wiring and are experienced with it. Train yourself to think outside of the box. You do no have to have an out of the box ignition switch for example you can make about anything work if you use your head. Making the loom... With the harness secured to the plywood one can now take measurements and cut wire to the desired lengths. I would suggest a trip to the auto parts store to buy a spool of split loom covering material that the wires can be inserted into. ( Just like the newer cars use a flexible split plastic type covering. This will do several things. One provide a nice looking finished project look and secondly provide protection to the wiring. Please do not use wire nuts or cheap crimp type connectors. The proper the best tool to use would be a K&B crimp tool along with the proper sized crimp connectors and appropriate heat shrink tubing. This is of course my opinions here and may not be shared by others. * Note* I did this when I installed all the aftermarket spark control and ignition upgrades to my supercharged Z-28 LT4 when I had it. When I was done all the wiring looked factory and was neat and tidy.
  11. Using thick paper gasket for intake?

    I still have a sheet of gasket material that parts stores used to sell and its probably over 40 years old along with a sheet of cork gasket material. These are saved for those special needs that seem to come up once in a while. I generally take a piece of paper and put a very light even coat of grease on the casting and then put the paper over it and then pull off. Once this is done I transfer the paper to the gasket and the grease is transferred to the gasket material and then simply cut the gasket. Or, if you have a can of blue simply spray the casting and press and release the gasket material and the blue will mark the gasket material.
  12. Backfiring Engine when under increased load

    Good catch there 953.. I made the mistaken assumption that everyone here knew NOT to run gas with ethanol in ANY small engine. Definitely part of the problem. I will gladly pay the .50 a gal extra to not purchase gas with ethanol in it. I am. I belong to the gun of the month club. I have wheel weight lead to buy and reloading components to purchase. I have to cut corners somehow. to feed my shooting obsession.
  13. Backfiring Engine when under increased load

    If your cheap like me you put kerosene in the oil to free up the lifter and use water down the carb to clean carbon deposits off pistons.
  14. Backfiring Engine when under increased load

    Its not an oil/gas mix so I will say no. My mowers are currently running on early July gas without a problem. Its got to most likely be a fuel pressure or carb problem in my humble opinion.
  15. 22hp predator vtwin swap?

    I think an Onan would look nice sitting in that tractor.