6bg6ga

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About 6bg6ga

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  • Birthday 04/26/1953

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    616Z Its all I have

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  1. The only thing I can think of is possibly it has a hair line wire fracture that expands enough to work intermittently. But it shouldn't be working
  2. The purpose in my opinion of a forum is to learn and to share experiences Take a look at the following: Troubleshooting Charging: 1. With the engine running more than half throttle, measure the voltage at the A terminal, it should be 13 to 14.5 volts. If it is 12.5 or less, ground the F terminal, if the voltage goes up to 13 to 14.5, most likely the problem is the regulator. Other possibilities are the wire from the F terminal to the voltage regulator, and the ground on the regulator not being good. If the voltage at the A terminal is 14.5 to 17 volts when you ground the F terminal, the regulator cut-out section is probably not connecting the A terminal to the battery. If the unit is measuring 13 to 14.5 volts at the A [without an external ground applied to the F terminal] terminal, the voltage measured at the battery should be within .1 or.2 volts of the voltage measured at the A terminal, if it is the system is working correctly. 2. If the unit fails the above tests, disconnect it and remove it. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the F terminal and the A terminal. A normal reading would be 7 to 15 ohms. If it measures less than that remove the end frame and pull the armature assemble out and look at the field coil connected to the F terminal. If the insulation is scorched, or it looks as if it has been overheated it is probably shorted. 3. Inspect the brushes for wear or the leads being loose in the carbon. Look at the sides of the brushes to be sure the sides haven't worn into the indentations in the holders causing the brushes to "Hang Up". 4. With the armature out, use the ohmmeter to check from the copper commutator bars to the armature laminations or the shaft. It should show no resistance, infinity. If the reading is 0 ohms you have a shorted armature. If it is 40 or more ohms, it probably has carbon dust between the commutator bars and the frame or shaft. Blow it out all around the commutator and windings. Be warned this dust is black and messy, so do it where it won’t make a mess. Blow the field housing out at this time also. If these two tests are OK, the armature needs to be "GROWLED." This checks for shorted turns, and shorted bars in the armature. This requires a growler to do this test. Any good starter shop will have one. If the field coil needs to be replaced, one will likely need a pole shoe screw remover. This is a clamp device with a screwdriver bit on a wrench that clamps the bit in the head of the screw to remove the pole shoe that holds in the field coil. Sometimes they will come out with an impact wrench, but when the pole shoe is reinstalled one needs to be sure they it is installed perfectly straight or it will hit on the armature if the curve is not exactly parallel with the armature. At this point for most people, this would be a "take it to the shop" job. 5. Check the bushing in the end plate for looseness. If the bushing needs to be replaced one needs a blind bushing puller which costs $400.00, so this is another "shop job." I hope that nothing I have said in the thread has been taken wrong. I'm only trying to help as are others. I think the above paragraph will head you in the right direction. The thanks for this goes to 953 nut and its an excellent article and should help you understand and fix the problem.
  3. Simple Ohms Law exercise. Since I couldn't open the doc for some reason I appreciate you copying it for me to read. Its what I expected. I wish I had the tractor to play with. I'd make a simple spreadsheet to use in troubleshooting the charging system. Sometimes even thou you know what your doing its easier to simply record the voltage checks and this way one doesn't forget a test and one ends up covering all the bases. Its easier to look back and say Ah I know what the problem is.
  4. Did a little testing and came up with this little fact. You need 17 VAC off the stator of the P216V Onan engine in order to charge a good battery at 14.6 VDC. I switched from a standard transformer to a simple variac for testing simply because I could dial in a voltage I wanted and monitor the voltage and amperage from my variac's monitor panel instead of bringing out a second meter just to monitor the AC voltage being supplied to the stator regulator. My finding surprised me because I had assumed I would need more engine RPM to charge a battery. The 17VAC is easily supplied as its less than 1800 engine RPM.
  5. What is this diode system? You could replace the mag with a hall effect sensor or another trigger, add a 12 volt coil and be in business. You don't have to stick with a mag.
  6. Sir, you don't need new carb. You just need a needle and seat and possibly a top carb gasket and I'm 99.9% sure this will end your fuel problem. After that is done ONLY use regular gas without alcohol. The alcohol is hard on the needle and seat and also percolates inside the carb when warm.
  7. I can't seem to open the file but I will comment anyway. With all due respect to everyone here I've never bought the comment "I've never had to do that" There is a lot of information on the internet to support both trains of thought. I've found information both pro and con. Its bottom line now.....it don't work. You've got nothing to loose. Just try it. We can waste our time arguing this or you can simply try it. You've proven the field works so the only logical conclusion is the regulator isn't working. Now, since I troubleshoot every day of my life at work I've learned several things. Put away the I've never done that attitude and just try it and the second thing is when something doesn't work its usually the part that you felt you would never have a problem with. I'm also going to suggest another thing... disconnect the battery and test the relay coils. Check to see if there is an open in the coils. Check to see if the points give a contact closure. These are simple tests you can make before you decide to polarize the generator. Again, your not out anything.
  8. If that's the case its not happening. If it were me I would be checking the points in the regulator and cleaning them up and making sure they didn't stick and will make good contact. From there since it isn't hard to polarize I'd just do it and see if it worked. I would attach my meter on the battery and polarize it and see if the charging voltage came back in. Ok, in reading this post again you've already proven the capability for it to charge being it slowed down when the field cable was touched. Check the regulator then polarize it.
  9. I would do what Kavint76 said. Can't hurt.
  10. One more thing... If your plug has gotten soaked there is a chance its not going to fire even if you try to dry it so I would have a new one on hand. I generally take a small propane hand held torch and heat up the plug and use it for test purposes and then replace the plug with a new one.
  11. My opinion here.... You have several problems. First you mentioned that you had to install a fuel shut off valve that you turned off when done mowing. I suspect the needle and seat in the carb are bad and need replaced. I suspect that you have used alcohol impregnated gasoline which is harder than heck on carbs. Secondly..... I suspect the battery is not delivering its full cranking power. Take it to your battery store and simply have them test it. Your not out anything except 15 minutes to take it out of the tractor. I believe that I you change the needle and seat and check the float level your carb problem will be solved. I also believe your battery needs replaced and you need to check your battery connections and make sure they are clean and tight. This will at least make it crank and have the correct amount of gas so you have a fighting chance of it starting and running. From here you can see if there is an ignition problem or not. Someone mentioned the compression release..... I would check this after tackling the fuel problem and checking the mowers battery.
  12. I remember on a generator you had to briefly touch A to B on the regulator to get it to charge. After thinking on this all day I would try it.
  13. Ok, lets work on this then. Tell me exactly what is happening and maybe we can figure this out. I post a small schematic of the charging system. Does it crank the engine? Does it charge? Sounds like it isn't so lets get into the charging system. What I would do. Disconnect the battery. Take the regulator cover off. Take some 400 grit sandpaper and run thru the points (both sides) take sandpaper out and take a clean piece of newspaper and run thru the points and gently close the points so you clean the points up. Pull paper thru until the paper comes out clean. I cannot remember if the regular needs to be polarized or not as that may apply only to a generator.....not sure. I believe your points are either burned shut or pitted badly so no contact can be make.
  14. Glad to hear it is working now
  15. Tinbender, Don't take anything I said wrong. Its just that a coil isn't going to function with either an open primary or an open secondary. I would bet money the engine ran and the coil ended up going open. The only other possibility is that you didn't make connection with your probes when checking it. My money is on the coil going open because I have had that happen with automotive coils in the past.