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About 6bg6ga

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  • Birthday 04/26/1953

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    616Z Its all I have

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  1. Great job on the pictures.
  2. DuraSpark-I ignition system This California only version of the DuraSpark system is very similar to the DS-II, with the following exceptions: DY204 module (red sealing block, a.k.a. "grommet") Deleted coil resistor Low-impedance high-energy ignition coil The DuraSpark-I system coil charging currents are higher than the DuraSpark-II, and designed to achieve better emissions and mileage through more complete charge burning, and improved ignition of lean air/fuel mixtures. To allow increased coil output, the coil resistor was deleted, and an electronic dwell circuit added to allow full saturation of the coil, yet prevent coil overheating. While the equivalent to GM's original HEI, it was limited to California-only as it was more advanced and expensive to produce. This high cost and limited availability is one reason the less-powerful DuraSpark-II conversions have historically been more popular. With the much greater availability in today's market, and prices reduced to DS-II equivalents, the DuraSpark-I is seeing a large increase in popularity for upgrades and conversions. The large distributor cap designed for the DS-I to help prevent terminal spark jumping was also standardized for all DuraSpark versions to reduce long-term maintenance. While the DS-I is capable of firing over 0.080" spark plug gaps, the factory recommended gap was 0.055-0.060" in most models - much wider than the DS-II. Ford part numbers for the DuraSpark-I module are D7AE-12A199-A1B, D7AE-12A199-A1E, D7AE-12A199-A2B, and D7AZ-12A199-A. Ford part number for the low-impedance DS-1 ignition coil is D7AZ-12029-A. However, due to the special dwell circuit, many other high-energy coils may be used, such as the GM HEI external coil, the Ford TFI coil, and many aftermarket equivalents. Ford models using the DuraSpark-I (California-only) include: 1977 Custom 1978-'79 Fairmont 1977-'79 Granada 1977-'79 LTD 1977-'79 LTD II 1977 Maverick 1979 Mustang 1977-'78 Mustang II 1977-'79 Thunderbird Lincoln and Mercury equivalent models are similarly equipped. Its been many years since I have worked with the Dura-spark Ford's first electronic ignition. I remember I owned a Jet Boat with a 460 Ford engine in it and converted the points ignition to the Dura-Spark. It worked well. I would have to play with it myself to determine if the Dwell circuit change is in the TFI portion or in the module section of the ignition. The GM module as I pointed out is already proven as a good workable device for small engine ignitions. The hall effect sensor I posted is a workable unit per its specifications and ability to reset very fast. It a copy of what others have used at a reduced price.
  3. Well that is good to know. I did a quick search on it and it came up as a points type ignition system and I didn't look any further. Not taking time to do any further research or break it down internally I dismissed it as points only. I stand corrected. Maybe you would like to share the info you have collected on it with those interested here. Looking at your sensor I'm wondering it that could have been the problem because that type is slower in that the part I posted. Your sensor is more suited as a industrial counting device.
  4. I will post the PN Mouser Electronics # 934-551103M02A and the cost is about $9.50 plus shipping. In looking up the Ford TFI module...it is for points operation not a hall effect sensor. Look for a different Ford module to use or go with the GM module that I pictured that will work with a hall effect switch. The Ford module would work well in an Onan points setup or ANY other points setups to prolong the point life and to provide a better hotter ignition. I could write a page about why not to use or try to use it but instead I will simply post a link that will provide a usable cheap GM module. I believe I have posted the wiring and if not feel free to send a message and I will respond. https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEW-4-pin-IGNITION-MODULE-Replacement-for-HEI-Distributors-CHEVY-GM-OLDS-PONTIAC/823382634?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=10002&adid=22222222222077334354&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=84043920257895&wl4=kwd-4587643547969467&wl12=823382634_10000010324&wl14=4 pin gm ignition module&veh=sem The GM module is about $15 at the Walmart store check link above.
  5. You simply cannot fault someone for bringing something back from the dead. Its a great job. Well done.
  6. There are a number of different sensors that one can use depending on what your going to use for the other electronics. Its not going to be a 100% swap out. I haven't gone any further with mine simply because I have had some major projects at work and no time to devote to the ignition project. Basically you will need a sensor that you can turn on and off with the magnetic ring. I chose the GM ignition module for simplicity. The Ford I assume could be used also but I haven't researched it so I couldn't tell you at this point in time how to wire. I can tell you that a spacer is going to have to be milled so it can attach to the timing cover where the original sensor sat. The aftermarket sensor will then mount to that pad and the mounting distance must be determined. I can also tell you that there is going to have to be the capability to move the sensor to obtain the correct ignition timing. Its not going to be a simple swap and walk away project. I would suggest that if you don't have the time available for this project the simplist thing would be to purchase the Onan module. Digi-key and Mouser are a good source for Hall effect sensors. I'm not going to spell out any particular sensor simply because I haven't finished the project. Also, taking this shot in the dark I don't know at this point in time if there isn't a better hall effect sensor out there that might be better suited than the one that I chose. With respect to your no spark condition.... I would suggest that you conduct the ignition module test to see if the module is indeed bad or the problem is the coil. The basis procedure is available I would assume by downloading the 520H files in the download information section in the forum. It will spell out the exact procedure to check the module and to check the coil. I never throw parts at anything. I like to know exactly why something isn't working first and then repair as needed.
  7. I have not had good luck purchasing bearings off Ebay and I question Amazon quality also. If it were me I would go to the local bearing shop with both bearings in hand. The reason I suggest that you take the originals with you is there is another factor and that is the tolerance of the bearing. Some like (example) the 608Z is available in different tolerances. The 608Z NT is a precision motor bearing for the Bodine gear reduction motor. However, a standard 608Z ABCD tolerance bearing will vary so much that it cannot be used in that instance. Pay a little more and purchase only once and you will be happy that you don't have to make multiple purchases to obtain EXACTLY what you need. Having said that...generally a numbered bearing will exchange with another of the same number. So, the numbers have to be exactly the same. The example again the 608Z NT isn't the same as a 608Z ABCD or a 608ZZ.
  8. Every bearing has a number on it a part number. These can be cross referenced to other manufacturers other brands. As long as a number can be seen a replacement most of the time can be found actually about 99% of the time. There are a few proprietary bearings that cannot be purchased one of which is the shaft bearing for a Pro Charger P1200 supercharger of which the bearing manufacturer ONLY sells to Pro Charger. It however is a 65,000 RPM bearing. It is highly doubtful that Wheel Horse had any such agreement with a bearing manufacturer since the bearing used is a extremely common everyday type bearing.
  9. This spring started out normal I suppose. The wife generally mows the yard because she like to help and she enjoys doing the mowing. Concerned that she would over do herself trying to mow the back yard in her condition I insisted that since she won't listen to me and have me mow it that she would be mowing with a riding mower. She has MS by the way. Well, we went mower shopping one weekend and picked up a Craftsman 30" riding mower that supposedly only needed a belt. Long story short I ended up buying a variator pulley assembly for $225.00 plus shipping. Not too bad I thought because I only gave $100 for the mower and it had a new battery and a very nice running Craftsman/ Briggs 13.5 HP engine. Got the pulley installed and maybe I had too much tension on the belt because I thought I was running fine but couldn't see that I was burning up the new $20 belt from the engine pulley to the variator pulley. Took it apart again looking to see if I had made a mistake but everything looked fine. This time I backed the adjustment off that applies tension when you step on the drive peddle. Now it seems to work well and isn't smoking another new belt. Supposedly these variator pulley systems are used on a number of different riding mowers and tractors. I really wonder what genius designed this ho's dream. Meanwhile, time was moving by ever so quickly and the grass was getting higher as I was waiting for the parts to be delivered. Impatient and not wanting to bring a bailer in thru my 56" gate in the fence I purchased another used riding tractor a Poulan. which seems to work well despite the fact it doesn't have any rollers on the mower deck. Been mowing a while with the Poulan and the parts for the 30" mower finally arrive. Now, to try to sell the 30" Craftsman and recoup the money I put into it. Some of us never learn. I should have just spent a tidy sum to begin with and eliminated the hassle and the extra abomination sitting in my third stall in the garage taking up room that I use in reloading my other hobby. I can blame this all on the inability to purchase a Wheel Horse in my part of the country or my lack of patience or my cheapness when looking for a decent reasonably priced mower. Never again will I buy another mower with a variator pulley setup. I will point out that I'm not blaming the Craftsman brand just the general idea of the cursed variator pulley idea which was also available on a number of the lower priced brands. Now, with $800 plus tied up in two mowers, repair parts, and belts why didn't I just purchase someone's Wheel Horse and simply pay to have it shipped to me?
  10. Just so I understand you correctly ... you used the light circuit to power a relay. You then came off the battery with a fused wire to the relay that will power the pump. Absolutely the right way to do it. In doing it that way you have a live circuit in start and in run. You have used a relay so you didn't burden the ignition switch. You also protected the power wire running from the battery to the relay with its own fuse. This is the BEST way to accomplish the task. This is the best example I've seen so far of using common sense instead of trying to depend on a wiring diagram that may or may not be accurate/ correct. You got it done, its done right and it cannot be improved upon. GREAT JOB!!!!!!!
  11. To make things simple the pump needs to prime the carb for an easy start. Making it function in the start and the run position is the best of both worlds.
  12. Just a suggestion.. You should install a fuse from the battery to the fuel pump if you don't have one. I like the fact that you used a relay to control the fuel pump and didn't try to run it thru the ignition switch. Is the light switch circuit inactive when the ignition switch is in the off position? Some manufacturers have a live light circuit. I had a Yard Man that had a live light circuit that I had to remember to make sure it was turned off when I was done snow plowing.
  13. Now is the time to check the oil pressure...... once that is done you will be 1/2 way there. Either you have good pressure and you have rod wear or the pressure/ volume is low and you have pump problems. Solve this problem first and then its time to put the engine on the bench if the pump is good and you have good volume. I would suggest that if you have to go into the engine that you drain the oil and keep it provided you can drain it without getting dirt with it. Pull the pan and take a rod cap off and examine it and the crank. Look for any aluminum on the crank's rod journals. Look at the oil passage in the crank. If everything looks good purchase some plastigauge and use it following its directions to determine the clearance. Your either going to come up with excessive rod to crank clearance or the pump simply isn't putting out enough volume to lubricate properly.
  14. I don't think there is any "One Best" solvent/cleaner/penetrating oil. Each seems to work good for specific needs. I'm old with old school ideas and I'm a lacquer thinner guy when it comes to carbs. Prior to using it I know I need to strip the unit of its plastic float for example and its gaskets. I know when I'm done with cleaning a carb in lacquer thinner its going to be kit time. Freeze off for me isn't an option for I know that in my collection of cleaners, solvents, and penetrating oils I have a secret mixture that works with one application and works well.