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BigMan-TinyTractor

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About BigMan-TinyTractor

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    D-250

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hardy, VA

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  1. The Plot Thickens... More D-250 drivetrain problems...

    Bump. Any thoughts?
  2. Bizarre fuel issue with a D-250... Never witnessed this before.

    I understand completely, thanks. The fuel filter seems okay.
  3. D-250 clutch won't disengage!!! Help!

    After the clutch freed up, the range is stuck (won't even move) in high range. Any ideas?
  4. D250 parts?

    There are downloads here on this forum for parts manuals. They're super helpful for finding part numbers. Unfortunately I have found that parts for the Renault engine (I have a '76 D-250) have been super scarce and mostly come from Germany. Hopefully some folks here can give you some better direction than I can. Good luck with the parts hunting.
  5. ,Hi all... I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around. I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it. So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump. So here's where it gets weird. After each incident, the mower would no longer start. If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn. After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again... Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off. So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts? The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet. So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue? I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting. Thanks a bunch! Jacob
  6. Hello again... So I just posted recently concerning a stuck clutch on my D-250. I pulled the deck, inspected everything, got frustrated, posted on Red Square and got some pretty solid advice. So under the guidance of Garry and Squonk, I was able to "unstick" the clutch by jolting the thing loose in top gear. It worked perfectly... Except... Now the thing is physically stuck in high range and the lever won't budge. It definitely worked just fine only moments before the clutch trick. Did I break something in the gear box? I did remove and reinstall the deck which I initially thought may have been installed wrong and could have been making physical contact with the linkage, but upon further inspection, doesn't appear to be although I admit I can't see it all. I was SO happy... Lol... It was working again and now this... Seems to be my kind of luck. Any tips or tricks for this issue? Thanks so much for your replies ahead of time. I have also apparently developed a completely unrelated fuel issue which I'll post separately on the engine forum. Thanks y'all... I really appreciate it. I DID manage to get the grass cut... I don't really like mowing in high range 1st gear but it was the only option... I guess some good came out of the situation. Jacob
  7. D-250 clutch won't disengage!!! Help!

    Okay... It worked!!! I tried Squonk's method but the battery/starter didn't want to cooperate at cranking RPMs. I revisited Garry's method as it occurred to me that I first tried it in low range. Shifting on the fly in high range was impossible on level ground and the gear grinding scared me as I don't know how stout the gear box is or isn't. So I creeped it up an incline in granny low and turned around facing downhill. With the engine idle cranked all the way down (motor barely running to the point the alternator light was coming on), I began a descent in neutral and was able to sync the gears to top gear in low range. I then climbed the hill again and repeated the process only in low 4th... Started down the hill and threw the range lever over in to high gear, mashed the clutch, said a few cuss words and dumped it. All at once a big cloud of brown dust (dirt I'm assuming) blew out from under the mower (the deck was removed prior to this) and a couple interesting noises ensued and presto... It started working again! I have no idea what the dirt cloud was about unless somehow it vibrated loose crap out of places I can't see from any angle. The machine is relatively clean. Then something occurred to me and I may be in LALA land about it... There is a tiny hole in the bottom of the fake bell housing that's actually part of the oil pan assembly (isolated from the actual oil sump) so as to have screw driver access to the flywheel as well as drain any oil from the clutch that may sneak past the rear main seal I'm assuming. That hole is large enough to allow Mud Daubers to get in and they're bad here this year. I have no earthly clue if that's what it was or not but I don't know what would cause a clutch to stick after being parked in a functional state. Anyways, Thank you both so much for the help and quick responses. You boys saved my tail big time. I can only imagine that a new throw out bearing and clutch disk is nearly impossible to obtain. Cheers, guys... Thanks again! Jacob
  8. D-250 clutch won't disengage!!! Help!

    Garry, I tried that. It didn't work. Squonk, Ain't tried that. I'll letcha know.
  9. Hey guys and gals... Had something super weird happen. I went to start my D-250 (Renault Engine) and the clutch won't work. So, instead of mowing for my 4th of July cookout, I pulled the 60" deck out and climbed underneath. The clutch linkages are intact and the throw out lever was a little bit loose on the adjustment rod. I adjusted the slack out of the throw out lever and prayed... No change. I fear something is internally wrong with the clutch. The weird thing is that it worked fine when I last used it. How could something break sitting still? I'm frustrated and confused. I have a parts breakdown for the clutch assembly and I am dreading having to pull the whole motor to work on it. Any advice? Am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy 4th everyone!
  10. New to forum with some D-250 questions...

    Thanks so much.
  11. New to forum with some D-250 questions...

    @maxiblue Thanks for the heads up. Am I correct when I assert that the lift cylinder for the belly mower is also used for the three point linkage?
  12. Hi, keep in contact with me I have some pictures of how the 3 point hooks up. I have the rods that go to the 3 point arms to that rocker at the lift cylinder lf you need those rods I will give them to you.

  13. New to forum with some D-250 questions...

    Thank you all so much. To answer a couple inquiries, Hardy, VA is just outside of Roanoke, VA... 😀 I think I am starting to understand the situation. So, the same hydraulic cylinder that is used to raise and lower the belly mower is used to raise and lower the 3 point... Is that correct? The hydraulic pump works splendidly and the cylinder doesn't leak either. It appears as though the rotating linkage bar is double duty for 3 point and the deck... Which if that is true, is great news, because that means I'm down to bars and links to make this gal work. Thanks again everyone! Great forum. Jacob
  14. Greetings from Virginia everyone. I'm brand new to the forum as I just bought a '76 D-250 with the Renault 4 cyl in it. It runs very well and has been taken care of, however the previous owner was a working DIY guy and there is a fair amount of non-OEM mods done to it. He gave me a multitude of spare parts for it also. He gave me some 3 point parts and bracketing, etc... But it looks as if the tractor came from the factory without the lift option on it. I know this has been asked before, but are retrofits/OEM upgrades/DIY tinkerer options already in existence for conversion? I'm a touch let down at the lack of the factory option as the seller made it sound as though it was equipped with a 3 point... Which I definitely require. There is some good news. Me and the boys are born and bred shadetree mechanics and amateur fabricators, so I'm open to some non factory stuff. This tractor was purchased to work, not to show. Any links to the factory 3 point option? I've seen the diagram of the links and bars, but not the lift mechanism. Was it built into the transmission/gearbox? The frame has the necessary holes drilled... I'm sure they used the same frame with and without the 3 point option, but I have no clue. I have access to some fun hydraulic stuff as I am a forklift mechanic by trade. Thanks so much ahead of time for any help. Looking forward to interacting with you all, Jacob
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