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About Indianajohn

  • Rank
  • Birthday January 26

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    520H, 724Z, old Work Horse
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    North-central Indiana
  • Occupation
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Ham radio, anything mechanical

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  1. 520h PTO not disengaging

    Okay, I was able to pick up a Torrington B2420 on fleabay for $10, and the outer bearing from my local parts distributor for about $4. It is actually a mower spindle bearing. I ordered the seal from the local NAPA for $7. Now I just need to get that shaft which will be the most expensive part. I’m just not sure how far to press in that inner bearing. There is a slight step way down in there, but I’m not sure if it needs to go in that far or not. I have not been able to find mention of that anywhere. Does anybody know?
  2. 520h PTO not disengaging

    So I thought I would post this info for anyone in the future who may need it. The outer Fafnir bearing # is P204RR6 which is the same under Timken and probably others. The seal is a CR 14810 (same under SKF). The inner bearing is a Torrington J 2420, which is also Torrington B 2420, Koyo B 2420, NTN DCL 2420, IKO BA 2420, INA SCE 2420. Hope this may help someone else down the road, maybe give some options for folks who need parts in a hurry or just don’t have a dealer close (like me). Or maybe just working on a budget.....
  3. 520h PTO not disengaging

    As Paul Harvey used to say, and now for the rest of the story..... I got time this evening to tear into this thing. I removed the brake and tried to turn the pulley by hand. It would only move about a 1/4” back and forth. I kept working and tappy-tapping with a dead blow hammer and finally got it to rotate all the way around. I was then able to pull the pulley off. There was moisture inside where the bearing is, but I couldnt tell if it got past the seal inside or the stub shaft on the outside. There is a LOT of weeble-wobble in that shaft. I popped the bearing and shaft out and the bearing itself isn’t too bad, but the shaft is really worn out for some reason. So, I guess I am looking at a total rebuild of the pulley. The outer bearing is a Fafnir and I can read a number on it, so shouldn’t be a problem getting a replacement, but not sure what I’m looking at for the inner bearing, seal, and the shaft.
  4. 520h PTO not disengaging

    The only thing I did was remove the pin thru the u-shaped piece and swing the hoop out of the way to r&r the belt. I’m familiar with how this style clutch is supposed to work, as my old Case 446 has a similar system. Just uses a different style of actuating mechanism, and sealed ball bearings in the pulley. I did notice there is an lot of slop in the pin piece that the u-shaped piece pins to, but it was that way last year too. Haven’t had a chance to look at that manual yet (thanks, BTW), but I’m guessing there is a bearing there held in by that snap ring. I guess its my own fault for getting spring fever a couple of days ago when we actually had spring-like temps. Today, 32 and snow. Sure wish Mother Nature would quit screwing around with the jet stream! Shouldn’t be having to worry about heat in the middle of April.....
  5. 520h PTO not disengaging

    The blades spin just as fast whether the clutch is engaged or not. That’s why I thought at first that clutch disc was stuck. I adjusted the brake pad last year. Starting to think I am going to have to go into the clutch to figure this out. Is there a manual or write-up on rebuilding one of these clutches?
  6. 520h PTO not disengaging

    Just took the blade off my tractor today and put the mowing deck back on. Simple right? I thought so too until I realized that the blades were running all the time. Didn’t have this problem last year, and haven’t changed anything over the winter. At least not on the tractor, tho I did replace the belt and idler on the deck. The lever is in the disengaged position, and when the engine is off I can see a gap between the friction plate and the pulley assembly, and I can turn the pulley assembly by hand. Can’t see any reason why the deck is still running. Any ideas? Could something be dragging inside the clutch?
  7. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    Thank you! Yes, it is the newer type (no test switch). I would very much appreciate it! Really want to know if this new o.p. switch is working properly, then I will do a write-up here on how I did it. Hopefully this will save someone else a lot of money over the stock Onan switch. I will PM you with my info.
  8. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    We'll, I did try a clear/red LED touching it across the leads ( observing the same polarity as the other LEDs in that row), and it did not light when I turned the key on. I was using a 3 volt 35ma LED. I then tried connecting my Fluke DMM across the leads and trying again. Not a flicker of voltage. I'm starting to wonder if they didn't somehow damage something on the board when they removed the old LED. I'm assuming there has to be some sort of driver circuit for these things. Of course, with everything potted in the way it is, that pretty much makes repairing anything on the board an impossibility. May end up having to replace the whole unit after all......
  9. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    Well, the biggest problem is that not all LEDs use the same voltage. That's where I'm running into an issue. I've tried getting a voltage reading off the left over leads still sticking up, but have no success there. These are the clear/white LEDs that light up red, and they are potted into the module, so you can't just unsolder one to take into Radio Shack and match it up. In fact it's going to be a bit tricky replacing this one, because I'll have to carefully solder the new leads onto the stubs of the old leads. But at least I can report that the hour meter is now working properly, so I know that at least that side of the new switch is working as it should.
  10. Okay folks, I am dealing with the typical Onan oil pressure light switch issue, but with a bit of a twist. A DPO apparently got tired of seeing the light on and cut the leads and removed the LED! So, I'm wondering if anyone has ever replaced any of these LEDs, and what the correct replacement part would be? Would really prefer not to have the expen$e of replacing the whole light module just for lack of a single LED. BTW, I believe I have a found a cheap replacement for the high $ Onan oil pressure switch. I won't know for sure that it works properly tho until I can replace the LED. If it does work, I'll do write-up here on it with pics.
  11. Make your own ignition module Onan?

    Actually the TFI system is full electronic, using a reluctor wheel and pickup unit inside the distributor. It came after the EEC IV system which was Fords first electronic ignition system. That system used a box that was fender mounted, also with a reluctor and pickup in the distributor. The TFI came later and was mounted directly to the side of the distributor. I have experimented some with crank trigger ignition using both the original Ford module and the TFI, using an npn style prox sensor as described on Brian Millers site. I was trying to use it on the P224 on my skid loader, but never could get the timing where I needed it to be. Since I really needed to use the machine and was tired of fighting with it (and SWMBO was running out of patience), I finally bought good used stock parts from Boomer and gave up for the time being. I still have all the pieces laying around here and may try it again at some point. The only reason I tried it to begin with is that I already had everything on hand here except the pickup, and I was facing replacing both the module and coil on the P224. A lot of money that I was trying to avoid having to spend. Oh well...... This was my test bench when I was experimenting with the TFI unit.
  12. Make your own ignition module Onan?

    Wouldn't the Ford TFI module also work? Would think that it should. Where did you get your sensor from? Application? My 520H has apparently lost spark. If it's the module, I'd like to try this.
  13. 520 PTO lever and mule drive?

    Wanted to thank everyone for their responses. This thread kinda took on a life of its own! Amazing how much Wheel Horse knowledge is collected here. Thanks to your help, I have a spring on the way for the PTO rod. I took off the lower dash panel, as that seems to be the easiest way to get in there. Still doesn't look like an easy job, but I'm sure I'll figure out a way. Still don't have a mule drive yet, but hopefully soon. And I still don't understand why they only got a 42" deck for this big tractor. The only thing I can think of is that they planned to use it more for plowing snow than for mowing, so they bought the smallest (cheapest) deck they could get. Judging from the condition of the deck, it's obvious it wasn't used a lot. Conversely, the snow blade looks to have been used extensively. Kinda funny tho that they bought tire chains for it, but no wheel weights.
  14. Is this a Wheel Horse zero turn?

    Got a 724Z myself. 72" deck, 24 hp Onan engine. Yes, the 700 series were built by Dixie Chopper. You might not consider them to be a "true" Wheel Horse, but certainly not junk. It's true that the Eaton hydro units where the weak links, but they can be rebuilt and good used unit are still around if you look. Heavy duty decks that hold up quite well and a beefy frame made for a pretty decent ZT for their time.
  15. I put the 42" RD deck under my 520 recently, but I'm having a couple of issues. Not sure if it's a problem with a deck or the tractor tho. When I raise the deck off the ground, it hangs crooked. It's very high on one side and low on the other. I did check to make sure that the cross shaft that hooks into the brackets on the tractor is in its proper location with the "bushings" on the shaft inside the brackets. Don't know if this is a normal situation, but doesn't seem like it should be. Also, on the arm that hangs down from the tractor there is a pin that engages with the lifting bar on the deck. It barely sticks thru the slot in that bar. It appears that there should be a washer and a cotter pin or clip that should go in that pin once it is installed thru that bar. However, the pin doesn't stick thru the bar anywhere near enough to be able install those parts. No matter hard how hard I try to pull that arm over, I can't get that pin to go all the way thru the bar. Any thoughts?