Jump to content

Indianajohn

Members
  • Content count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About Indianajohn

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday January 26

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    520H, 724Z, old Work Horse
  • favoritemodel
    520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    North-central Indiana
  • Occupation
    Self-employed
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Ham radio, anything mechanical

Recent Profile Visitors

338 profile views
  1. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    Thank you! Yes, it is the newer type (no test switch). I would very much appreciate it! Really want to know if this new o.p. switch is working properly, then I will do a write-up here on how I did it. Hopefully this will save someone else a lot of money over the stock Onan switch. I will PM you with my info.
  2. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    We'll, I did try a clear/red LED touching it across the leads ( observing the same polarity as the other LEDs in that row), and it did not light when I turned the key on. I was using a 3 volt 35ma LED. I then tried connecting my Fluke DMM across the leads and trying again. Not a flicker of voltage. I'm starting to wonder if they didn't somehow damage something on the board when they removed the old LED. I'm assuming there has to be some sort of driver circuit for these things. Of course, with everything potted in the way it is, that pretty much makes repairing anything on the board an impossibility. May end up having to replace the whole unit after all......
  3. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    Well, the biggest problem is that not all LEDs use the same voltage. That's where I'm running into an issue. I've tried getting a voltage reading off the left over leads still sticking up, but have no success there. These are the clear/white LEDs that light up red, and they are potted into the module, so you can't just unsolder one to take into Radio Shack and match it up. In fact it's going to be a bit tricky replacing this one, because I'll have to carefully solder the new leads onto the stubs of the old leads. But at least I can report that the hour meter is now working properly, so I know that at least that side of the new switch is working as it should.
  4. Okay folks, I am dealing with the typical Onan oil pressure light switch issue, but with a bit of a twist. A DPO apparently got tired of seeing the light on and cut the leads and removed the LED! So, I'm wondering if anyone has ever replaced any of these LEDs, and what the correct replacement part would be? Would really prefer not to have the expen$e of replacing the whole light module just for lack of a single LED. BTW, I believe I have a found a cheap replacement for the high $ Onan oil pressure switch. I won't know for sure that it works properly tho until I can replace the LED. If it does work, I'll do write-up here on it with pics.
  5. Make your own ignition module Onan?

    Actually the TFI system is full electronic, using a reluctor wheel and pickup unit inside the distributor. It came after the EEC IV system which was Fords first electronic ignition system. That system used a box that was fender mounted, also with a reluctor and pickup in the distributor. The TFI came later and was mounted directly to the side of the distributor. I have experimented some with crank trigger ignition using both the original Ford module and the TFI, using an npn style prox sensor as described on Brian Millers site. I was trying to use it on the P224 on my skid loader, but never could get the timing where I needed it to be. Since I really needed to use the machine and was tired of fighting with it (and SWMBO was running out of patience), I finally bought good used stock parts from Boomer and gave up for the time being. I still have all the pieces laying around here and may try it again at some point. The only reason I tried it to begin with is that I already had everything on hand here except the pickup, and I was facing replacing both the module and coil on the P224. A lot of money that I was trying to avoid having to spend. Oh well...... This was my test bench when I was experimenting with the TFI unit.
  6. Make your own ignition module Onan?

    Wouldn't the Ford TFI module also work? Would think that it should. Where did you get your sensor from? Application? My 520H has apparently lost spark. If it's the module, I'd like to try this.
  7. 520 PTO lever and mule drive?

    Wanted to thank everyone for their responses. This thread kinda took on a life of its own! Amazing how much Wheel Horse knowledge is collected here. Thanks to your help, I have a spring on the way for the PTO rod. I took off the lower dash panel, as that seems to be the easiest way to get in there. Still doesn't look like an easy job, but I'm sure I'll figure out a way. Still don't have a mule drive yet, but hopefully soon. And I still don't understand why they only got a 42" deck for this big tractor. The only thing I can think of is that they planned to use it more for plowing snow than for mowing, so they bought the smallest (cheapest) deck they could get. Judging from the condition of the deck, it's obvious it wasn't used a lot. Conversely, the snow blade looks to have been used extensively. Kinda funny tho that they bought tire chains for it, but no wheel weights.
  8. Is this a Wheel Horse zero turn?

    Got a 724Z myself. 72" deck, 24 hp Onan engine. Yes, the 700 series were built by Dixie Chopper. You might not consider them to be a "true" Wheel Horse, but certainly not junk. It's true that the Eaton hydro units where the weak links, but they can be rebuilt and good used unit are still around if you look. Heavy duty decks that hold up quite well and a beefy frame made for a pretty decent ZT for their time.
  9. I put the 42" RD deck under my 520 recently, but I'm having a couple of issues. Not sure if it's a problem with a deck or the tractor tho. When I raise the deck off the ground, it hangs crooked. It's very high on one side and low on the other. I did check to make sure that the cross shaft that hooks into the brackets on the tractor is in its proper location with the "bushings" on the shaft inside the brackets. Don't know if this is a normal situation, but doesn't seem like it should be. Also, on the arm that hangs down from the tractor there is a pin that engages with the lifting bar on the deck. It barely sticks thru the slot in that bar. It appears that there should be a washer and a cotter pin or clip that should go in that pin once it is installed thru that bar. However, the pin doesn't stick thru the bar anywhere near enough to be able install those parts. No matter hard how hard I try to pull that arm over, I can't get that pin to go all the way thru the bar. Any thoughts?
  10. Repair fuel sender?

    Thought I would finally post an update on this project. I was able to get the sending unit apart and repair the broken rheostat wire inside by soldering. Wasn't easy, but it does work after a fashion now. Since I ended up having to shorten the wire by a couple of turns before soldering it, the gauge won't go full scale anymore. But at least it does work well enough to satisfy me. I'm more interested in knowing when I'm about to run out of gas than when the tank is full. I was able to carefully grind the heads off the rivets to separate the housing and get to the rheostat to repair it. I then used very short 10-32 screws and nuts to reassemble it. So I would call the repair a qualified success. As usual, YMMV.
  11. 520 PTO lever and mule drive?

    Pullies, bearings, and belts I can get at cost since own a shop. In fact I could probably build a mule drive from scratch if I had to, but right now I just don't have the time. Spring is here and things are starting to get busy in the shop. I'm still hoping the PO will come up with the original mule drive, but I'm not counting on it.
  12. 520 PTO lever and mule drive?

    I see mule drives on fleabay from $25 and free shipping, up to $125. Don't understand why there's such a disparity in pricing, when they are all pretty much the same thing. I guess there are some real optimists out there, or they're smoking some really good sh*t!
  13. 520 PTO lever and mule drive?

    I did see that spring in the diagram, but it wasn't clear where it went or what it did. Ed's photo helps a lot. And Ed, that's quite the pile of mule drives there! I've seen lots of these on fleabay, but many times they don't give the model of what tractor they came off of, and they all look the same in the pictures so as a newbie to these tractors, it's a bit confusing to say the least. Don't want to spend money on something I can't use. Good to know that I won't have to be too picky looking for one. Thanks for the responses guys!
  14. Gentleman ( and ladies, if we have any here), got a couple of semi related questions. What is supposed to keep the PTO lever in the off position on a 520H? Is there supposed to be some kind of spring loading on this thing? On mine, somebody had a bungee cord wrapped around the lever where it goes into the side of the dash to hold it in place. I know that ain't right! But without the cord it just flops back and forth (mostly forth, which makes it a pain to start). Not seeing anything on the parts diagram. Next question. I finally got the mower deck for this thing. It's in great shape, apparently used very little and stored indoors, but it's only a 42" rear discharge. Why they had such a small deck for such a big tractor I'll never know. Anyway, we weren't able to find the mule drive but they are going to keep looking. But I may need to find one on my own. Been looking on fleabay, but not sure what I need. I see lots of Wheel Horse mule drives for different model tractors and they all look the same to me. Do I have to have one off another 520? Or will any of these mule drives that fits the Quick Attach hitch work? Do most Wheel Horse tractors use the same drive? Thanks!
  15. Got the 520H back together!

    Thanks to Dave, I got the hydraulics line I needed for my 520H and finally got it put back together. I actually got the line a couple of weeks ago, but didn't get the chance to work on it until this week. First my mother-in-law passed away suddenly a couple weeks ago, then four days after her funeral, I had to go in the hospital for a heart cath and stent so I couldn't do anything for a week after that. Then a week ago my father-in-law went into the hospital for an infection that had turned septic. We didn't get him out until this Monday. So things have been rather crazy in my life lately. Since things are finally getting back to normal, I was finally able to spend some time in the shop this week. I did drain out what little oil was left in the transaxle and replaced it with fresh 10w30 Rotella. It was nice to finally get to drive it around the yard yesterday. The tractor still has a couple of minor issues. Biggest issue is the gas gauge sending unit, and I have posted a thread about that in the electrical section. I also have a wonky light switch, so I need to find another one of those. I'm also missing the handle for the hydraulic lift lever, and the knob for the choke. No biggie. They are both still available from Toro, the handle isn't cheap tho. The engine runs good, tho it does burn a little oil when it's cold but goes away when it warms. Don't know what was put in it for oil tho, or if it's maybe diluted with gas. Haven't had the chance to do anything with the engine yet. Also I noticed that when I turn on the key, all the lights come on (as they should) except for the oil. Don't know if the bulb is burned out or even if they are replaceable. Also have to replace one of the tail light lenses, as well as both bulbs, one of the headlight bulbs, and a couple of the gauge bulbs. Also need to fix/adjust the switch for the parking brake light. Again, minor issues. Overall, I am pretty happy with this machine so far. BTW, I have tried to put that 520H club thingy in my signature, but can't figure out how to do that on my iPad. Pics below.
×