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About BrianK

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    Somonauk, IL

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  1. Toro Hydro Filter

    For closure's sake; I called Toro 2 more times. Two different people. I did actually call 2 different dealers. One wouldn't answer. The other, as suspected, didn't know. In fact he said he has NO info on the filter at all and doesn't get any spec sheets from toro. He called me back a couple hours later, took the time to search online, toros site and just regular ole google, came up with nothing but "gurus online in the forums going to the Napa/Wix filter" haha. The second time I called toro I got specific with them, and requested to talk with an engineer, or email, or something...ANYTHING. I'm in their system 3 times now, name and number with a case file and what really grinds my gears is she recommended I call a different dealer. Really? She said they're not "set up to patch people through to engineers, nor do they have the engineers info...no extension or anything. 😡 So that in and of itself is enough BS and smoke up my cheerio to make me switch to Napa Gold/Wix permanently. Customer service is big with me and if all you're going to do is give your customers numbers to service centers, you can go pound sand because you're not getting my money. Swapped the toro for a Napa Gold 1410/Wix 5140 (same exact filter, I spec'd both out) and cut open the toro. Excuse my shavings, I was in a hurry and didn't care. Compared to a Wix that @squonk cut open a few years ago; I need to be fair here and say the Toro filter looks to be of somewhat ok quality. Coil spring on top, filter media is epoxied in place, and the filter is clamped at the seam instead of glued like a lot of brands. I don't know what the "flutes" are for in the bottom retaining ring. Having said that, I don't know if I care for the rubber/silicone gasket. I don't know why it's there...hell, NO ONE KNOWS. One thing I do know, however, is that some companies use this as a bypass "valve". There is no anti-drainback valve on these filters that's typically found on engine oil filters but in some cases they use it as one in the same...similar to this one... Usually the bypass is metal and in the top of the filter but there's a ton of different designs and we're talking about hydraulic, so....Whatever is in the toro may not be traditional but no one definitively knows what it's for...and the pop tarts at toro don't even know what a bypass valve is. Regardless, I don't like it. Obviously people have been using the toro and have been fine...or have they? No way to tell for sure, too many variables. Oh, and I contacted Baldwin, gave them the the toro number and they replied with "we do not have a cross reference for that number and we cannot guarantee and exact match/replacement. Take that for what it's worth. Anyway, judge for yourselves but IMHO the differences favor the Wix.
  2. This might help get you started.
  3. Ok, well I bought the motor and bought a shaft seal; SKF 6903. Both will be here in a few days so I will tear down the motor for an initial inspection. Unknown condition but it was cheap so I took the risk. Ill probably refurb it even if it doesn't need it since I'll have it tore down anyway. I should be able to tell fairly quickly if it's compatible...which it should be. If it doesn't need anything major replaced I'll throw the seal on it and put it in the tractor. Then we can all learn somethin... If all's well I'll have a complete spare piston-piston hydro setup for the 160...you know, for when my son destroys the one that's on it.
  4. Do you know if this is a diagram from the hydro/trans manual, owners manual etc? Looking up the 165A and D series take me to the manual I already have; Hydrogear and Piston-Piston 1965 - 1982. I would have thought it would show the alternate motor shaft and any other changes. According to my research the last year 165 was made in '82. Unless I missed something, which is entirely possible.
  5. Thought of that as well Dave. Ill have to cross-reference the rest of the parts to get a better idea, ie: pump housing ID, bearings etc and if they're identical all id have to do is chuck up the shaft in the lathe and shave er down.
  6. Unfortunately this assembly isn't in my possession. I was wondering that as well; whether or not there was some type of shaft seal.
  7. Awesome, thanks for the info. One of the parts im looking for is the shaft. Id either have to modify it to work in the c-160 housing or find a way to seal the end off. Hmm...Unless I added the brake, of course.
  8. Ok Wheel Horse wizards. I'm looking at getting some spare parts for my C-160. Came across a motor for a D series and it looks the same as whats on my standard system, even has the same part number on the manifold housing, except for one thing. Anyone know why the shaft is sticking out past the pump end cap? I don't see this in the manual. Are they compatible? Looks like some type of consumer modified secondary pto.
  9. Tractor sounds normal to me. I don't have an eaton but I do have a sundstrand that is similar, if memory serves me ATM. To me, your jerkiness is a sign of a good strong pump. I would be more concerned if it sort of "stalled" and took extra time to build pressure. I have the same thing you describe on my c-160; jerking as well as the sound. In fact, I can pop the front tires off the ground now if I move the lever too fast, its that jerky, but adjusting speed while moving and once the oil is warm its much smoother. I run 10W-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic. I think its just simply the design of the motor and at least, on my tractor, its that way because I don't have "brakes". Its a dynamic braking system based solely off pump pressure. The controls are a bit crude and the length of travel/throw for these pumps is far too short for the swash plate, IMO. Needs better linkage. I work on and around probably 50 or more hydro pumps of all kinds for my day job and all of them have a constant whine and grunt while loading pressure. As long as you're not hearing any metal on metal, pinging, grinding, knocking, ticking, scraping, scratching etc. I think you're good to go. FWIW I've used Wix filters on my vehicles with Mobil 1 for over 15 years now and they've never let me down. Wix is a large company and I haven't found a re-branded product they make I wasn't happy with, ie: Napa, Mobil 1 etc. I had a Napa/Wix 1410 on after I rebuilt my pump and motor a couple months ago. After the oil change a couple weeks ago I put on a Toro. I'm skeptical because I don't know who makes it. I've done some research and I cant find any info. Every time I look at it I pray to baby jesus it isn't made by Fram or the like. If I find out it is, id leave work early to get that vile, nasty cardboard and paper towel stuffed disgrace off my sweet sweet horse. Then ill probably change the oil again and sit in my garage asking for forgiveness while I try to come up with an excuse for my negligence. I've cut open a fram before....never again. ANYWAY...whew, I need a drink. I compared the wix and toro filters during the change. The wix had bigger inlet ports but less of them than the toro. Gasket diameter was smaller than the toro but the wix filter was longer. I doubt any of that matters, however, I hear tell the toro filter has a 10 micron filter rating whilst the wix is around 20. That info is worth considering. GPM or flow rate is affected by the quality of the filter media as well so if the charge pump is working harder to push oil through the filter, you will get more whining. Might also consider taking a look at your strainer as well. Those get clogged up and pumps get angry about it quick. I called toro today because this is bugging me. The guy I talked to had no clue who made the filters for them. Not only that, he couldn't even give me the specs on it...and thats after he put me on hold for 5 minutes while he tried to figure it out. As a topper, he told me "if you have access to the internet, you could GOOGLE it and try to find out more info". Really dude?! He then suggested I call a local authorized toro dealer....haha, sure. Contamination is nothing to play with when dealing with variable or fixed displacement/piston pumps. This 13 gpm pump I replaced last week blew up simply because it got some water in the system from a leaking heat exchanger. WATER. I may have to cut open both filters and compare for peace of mind.
  10. Toro Hydro Filter

    Interesting, fellas. I agree. Over the years who knows how many times they've switched because of money, some engineer, penny pinching bean counter or otherwise. I can't imagine having the original filter on that Electro...good lord, I would have melt down. See...this is what im afraid of. After my rebuild I put on a Napa/Wix filter. I have nothing but good to say about them, been using them on all my engines for 15 plus years. I don't know Toro, it scares me. In fact, I called them today and they couldn't tell me who made it for them. The guy couldn't even tell me the specs on the filter. WTH? Gave me a number to an authorized dealer....yea OK, ill call THEM, sure. I have a Toro one on now, but I don't like not knowing. I went through a lot of work on that pump and motor to just throw on a filter made by friggin FRAM or some other disgraceful puke of a company that stuffs their filters with paper towels. Not sure if you can tell its bothering me or not haha. Hmm, even differences in the design of the two filters you posted. I went to Baldwin's website for a cross-reference and they don't have an equivalent filter for the Toro 79-5270. Looks like they have some quality products FWIW.
  11. Anyone know who makes Toro's hydro filters? I called toro and they don't know. The question has seemed to have stumped Google as well. Would like some specs too...micron rating, gpm, absence of bypass valve etc. I read somewhere, someone thought the toro 79-5270 (mine) had a bypass valve.
  12. C-160 Hydro issues

    Haha yep...though I'd be lying if I said I'd mind. I like moving snow for some strange reason. It sure does help. I didn't really lose traction at all unless I floored it. I need to fab something up as well, would just be easier to manage. You bet, glad I could help. I think my bench vise is 4" wide. With the bend radius, the total length came out to just over 5 and a half inches for the vertical bend and just under 5" for the horizontal bend...the part you hold on to when turning...with the rod end about flush with the end of the vice. That seemed like the max length you'd want. Any more than that and a full rotation of the handle would be too much and you'd have to get your upper arm involved in the work.
  13. C-160 Hydro issues

    Well another brief update and wanted to let you guys know I'm still kickin this project. 🤘🏻 Things are still working out as planned. The past couple weeks have been spent tying up loose ends and trying to figure everything out with the blower and what not. I got everything in pieces so it all went together a bit slower than I would have liked, going by the manuals and pics online, since I didn't take it apart...put me at a wee bit of a handicap. I got the blower on and it seems I had all the parts, minus a couple little things, EXCEPT the chute crank handle. 🤔 Weird. I would have sworn I had it, had you asked me. I looked through everything, and no dice. The snowblower parts breakdown was no help at all as far as rod dimensions so I decided to guesstimate and make my own after a few days of googling didn't turn up a used one. I guess it comes as no surprise, however shocking, Toro wants $97 for the crank handle rod alone 😲....which is asinine. I took some measurements, went to Menards and bought a 3/8 rod for $8, a bronze bushing for the hole in the support for $1 (to prevent any further wallering) a locking collar for $1 and a cap nut for the end of the rod for $.50 because this one didn't come with a rotatable handle on the end, and I wanted one. The handle on Amazon was about $9 Prime. Fired up the torch and a little while later; Works great...and ill be dad gummed, I get that thing installed and get a text message the next morning from the guy I borrowed the trailer from to pick this whole mess up in.....yep, I left the rod in the trailer. Dummy. O well, mines better anyway. I guessed right on the diameter but my setup has a bushing, a crank handle and it's 7" longer so toro can go pound sand. I added a bunch of oil to the gearbox, greased the worm gear, chute sprocket, guide ring, auger shaft bearing and found out the the hard way that the 90 degree auger shaft gearbox was packed with grease because the output shaft oil seals are bad so I'll be rebuilding that this summer. I don't have chains but I got the wheel weights on. I read that some guys leave the tiller on to help. I had it sittting there so I decided to try it. Oh man does that help with steering. Well we got about a half inch of snow yesterday so guess what I did haha. Fully knowing everything was gonna melt today in the 42 degree wave, I didn't care. It was the perfect functionality test and would give me time to work out any kinks before the next hammering. I ran her at about 3/4 throttle and the snow was so light, that second stage created a whiteout that made me look like the abominable snowman within the first 10' of blowing. This tractor gave no crap at all what was attached to it either. It's like I had nothing on it, flying up and down the driveway like it was a joy ride, plastering mine and the neighbors house with a wheelhorse blizzard. I couldn't be more pleased...and the neighbors knew it if they were outside, thats for sure. If they were on the fence about me being crazy before, I pushed them over last night. I was laughing my fool head off, soaked to the bone and didn't care, belly laughing up and down the driveway at full speed completely covered in snow. I'd bet money I was the only house in town that cleared their drive but man oh man I haven't had that much fun in a long time. Of course there's a bunch more satisfaction that went along with it...everything finally coming together and all. I know you guys know exactly the feeling I'm talkin about. Anyway, it worked great and I can't wait to get some real accumulation. I'll keep you guys posted. I did get my inspection camera and tried to get into the trans tonight but it's much harder than expected trying to see everything without dunking the lense in oil. I have no idea how it's going to work or if we're even going to be able to see anything interesting but it's fun to mess around. I was in the case for a good 10 minutes lookin around and everything looks clean as a whistle. I got a couple shots, nothing great, but I want to get up close to some more gears. There's a gear almost right at the opening for the fill tube so I don't know if I'll get video of it running but I'm gonna try. Bottom of the fill tube. Motor output gear. Thanks again guys, Ill be checkin' in soon.
  14. C-160 Battery/Electrical Question

    Good idea on the extra cables....and YESSIR!, my dad was a ford guy haha.
  15. C-160 Battery/Electrical Question

    Exactly what I needed!