raider9

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About raider9

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Raider 9, Commando 6
  • favoritemodel
    Raider 9

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Navy
  • Location
    New Franklin, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Maintenance supervisor
  • Interests
    wheel horses and Mopars

Recent Profile Visitors

384 profile views
  1. I decided to only paint the gearbox because I like the original patina too much. It took me a while to get it attached because of a seized hitch pin, but It's all done and I've used it once so far. The patch I tilled was grassy and had never been tilled before. It ate it up with no issues. Just threw it in low gear and sat back.
  2. Sorry! It took me forever to get back on here and post these. I used her all winter long but the carb float got a hole and then the threads for the bowl wore out. I bought a used one and rebuilt it. She's running like a top again now. Fun little machine! The 10 Horse works great, you just have to be careful on how fast you let the clutch out. First time I took it out I did a wheelie and about flipped over backwards due to the torque of it. Hope you like the pics!
  3. I realize I'm like 2 years late, but I ran into the same issue and I wanted to add this post so that other people can find the right tube. Jacks small engine carries a tube that fits the wheel horse 16x5.50-8 tires. Here's the link to the page. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/martin-wheel/t408
  4. I didn't think to take before pictures. I guess I just get too excited to get to work. I've only had it for 2 weeks now and it's almost ready to role. I love making them run again. Anyway, I'll snap some pictures when I get home and post them. I had to buy a fuel pump and carb rebuild kit and then I'll have to figure out how to make a 10HP engine pulley line up on a 6 HP tractor.
  5. Bought a Commando 6 with a snow blower and wheel weights for $250. It was in bad shape and kind of mangled up, so I'm just rat rodding it out. I had a spare Tecumseh HH100 sitting on the shelf and that's also what came on the tractor I bought, so I'm taking the two and making one that runs. It's not going to be original but it sure is fun. The picture is after I completed a lot of work. Thinking about keeping it as my winter set up when I'm done with it.
  6. I bought a 36" Tiller and I broke it all the way down for a rebuild. I'm on my way to getting it back together now. First piece is painted and even though it's not very big it's all new!! Love my wheel horse!! OH yeah.... GO INDIANS!!!
  7. I appreciate the offer. I got mine fixed for now. That cast rod is pretty nice stuff. If it breaks again I'll just make one at work myself.
  8. We have cast iron rod for our stick welder at work. I'm going to have one of my guys try to fix it. Worst case I'll end up buying one from a vendor here, or for $100 at partstree.com. Thanks for the help!
  9. I found it on partstree.com for $100 plus shipping. Let me know if anyone has one for cheaper please. Thanks again!
  10. I stayed up late last night to finish up on my mower deck. I had predicted Wednesday for the trial run but I just Couldn't wait. Anyway, The deck was working great until my pivot arm broke in half. It looks like someone before me welded it once already. Some dummy (ME!!!) didn't realize you need a pin to lock the deck in the front bracket and I hit a bump that jarred it loose. Needless to say I ended up with a broken pivot arm and a hard lesson learned. I looked a little on ebay but haven't had much success. The deck is a 1967 RL-426. I've attached some pictures. It's item 70 in the the drawing which is part # 6725. Let me know if anyone can help me out. Thanks!
  11. I have a 68 raider 9 model 1-6931. I recently ran into the same issue and it also seemed to happen gradually. I've read three or four other posts of people having the same issue as well. My tractor didn't have the tab on the guard or any sign of one ever being there. I've not been able to figure out why, but I think somehow a batch of these got off the line without the tab? I don't know that this could be true but I fixed mine by doing the following: 1) installing a bolt that extends from the frame out towards the belt guard. It's a bit redneck but it works great. I drilled a hole in the frame and ran the bolt from the inside out. Then I ran a nut down the bolt to lock it in place. The bolt has to be located in a way that the idler/tension pulley will pinch the belt between the bolt and the bracket on the back of the pulley. The bolt basically acts as the tab that's missing on the guard. An easier, less redneck fix, would be just to buy the belt guard with the tab and install it. whatever works for you 2) I found that If I had the tabs bent to close to the belt it didn't work very well at all, even with the modification I made. They need to be spaced out a little from the belt. There purpose is not to stop the belt but rather to help hold it off of the PTO pulley on the engine when the clutch pedal is pressed. When the clutch is pressed in, the belt should stop completely and slip inside of the PTO pulley. I hope this helps you and good luck!!
  12. Cut the bad spots out and sandblasted the rl-426 mowing deck. Welded in new patches and new diverter wall. Put Belzona (Metal and ceramic epoxy) on the underside of the deck. Primed and painted the outside. The Belzona was pretty expensive so I only used it on the high impact/abrasion areas. The towers and the back side of the diverter wall will be primed and painted to protect them from corrosion. Towers have new seals and bearings. I bought new belts for it and all new hardwear. Should be ready by Wednesday for her first run in the yard.
  13. Sand blasted and ready for patches to be welded in. Bought the belzona ceramic s metal coating for the underside. I will keep adding pictures as I go.
  14. It's supposed to be some of the best stuff out there to defend against abrasion corrosion and impact. Only problem is I think it's pretty expensive. I'm trying to work a deal with the sales rep right now. If I can get it cheap enough I'll use it and take pictures.
  15. Here's the website for the kind I want to use. http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000/1321.aspx It's expensive but I'm thinking it'll make my deck last another 50 years.