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About classicdmax

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    73' 16h hydro
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    rhode island
  • Occupation
    Remodeling contractor
  • Interests
    The outdoors, rock crawling in the jeep, riding my sled, my tractor, my family

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446 profile views
  1. Ah good thinking, wasn't considering any of the seals its not a very practicle design for easy operation. You shouldn't need tools to release pressure for pushing or towing
  2. Is it possible to weld a tab to end of this valve to aid in operating push valve. I haven't yet had the need to push the tractor, but have tried to open valve and it seems to be frozen
  3. Good info thanks to both
  4. I recently had same issue. I replaced carb with an eBay jobby I bought last summer as a spare and so far so good. (I thought it only cost me $40 or so) Although I did have to remove the choke linkage and clock the flag for proper operation. Just pried it off, rotated 180deg and pressed back on. All my fuel lines were already previously replaced except from pump to carb. So replaced that as well. but prior firing and sending fuel thru the carb, I left the carb side of fuel line discontnected, pulled the coil wire, and turned over a couple times to clear out any crud that may have been in there. Good thing I did because quite a bit of debris came out. Also ordered a rebuild kit for oem carb and will rebuild to have that as a spare now Also note, it was recommended to me to do an oil change as cheap insurance as you may have gotten fuel thru the intake and now in the crankcase essentially thinning down your oil. I did as suggested and found my fairly fresh oil to be very dirty, and gassy smelling.
  5. Thanks I'll check it out
  6. Drained oil yesterday and it did seem a bit gassy. I ran the tractor a couple minutes to loosen up the oil, but it really didn't seem all that warm when draining.....temps were cold. Also dumped a random qt of fresh oil thru to help flush any remaining residue thru. Left the drain plug off overnight because I felt the thick oil wasnt completely drained. Been using amsoil 30wt 4 stroke oil thanks for the help fellas
  7. There seems to be a lot of slop in belt, recently installed new tensioner pulley and new WH #7478 belt. While tractor is running if I apply a bit of pressure to parking brake bar which applies more pressure to belt the slop clears up a bit....I think maybe a new spring would help
  8. Where can I get parking brake spring? aforementioned spring above is discontinued thanks
  9. I built this last fall for a customer, 12'x12'. 3/4" advantec over 2x6pt. Used 9 solid concrete blocks for footings. 2x4 walls 16"oc, 2x6 roof 16"oc. Sliding barn doors and 1 window. Loft over half floor footprint. T111 siding, Finger jointed red cedar trim. Perimeter also got 1/4"X1/4" galv mesh down 10" below grade, 10" out to keep rodents from residing underneath. These aren't cheap to build right. Also did a 12x16 with an attached 8x16 lean to a couple years back same setup. Unfortunately I cannot upload the pic for some reason sorry Here we go
  10. I did check the oil and it seemed fine, but you're right I should change it. I did buy oil yesterday but guess I was being a bit lazy. I'll check that gas station site later today, but am fairly certain there is no ethanol free at the pump in my area
  11. I was functioning fine, although I thought it seemed to have some play/slot whilst running. This being my first horse this could be the norm as I have nothing to compare to
  12. Good idea, but how do I know what I just removed was the correct size? whwre can I find what would be correct for my tractor. Ps I know I ask these questions and the answers are probably around here somewhere close.... Sorry, thought I had a signature for my posts its a 73 16h hydro
  13. Can I just take old drive belt to my local ma pop auto parts store and match length? I'm thinking of trying to go a size shorter if it's not too much shorter than what I removed for there seemed tone some slop when running. Also waiting on delivery of new belt tensioning spring which may help with that....
  14. Today i removed the instruction placard along with steel backing plate...operated tractor and reverse seemed much better. I believe the steel backing plate to be the culprit in limiting travel of hydro shift lever. I used a 1/2" dia metal rasp bit in my drill press as a diy mill and elongated the forward and reverse slots as well as widened the corners a bit. Seems much better in reverse now, at least a bit more speed
  15. thanks