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About 69-Raider-10

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    - 69' Raider 10
    - 68' Raider 12
    - 68' Commando 8
    - Couple other beaters that aren't Wheel Horse.
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Reading, PA
  • Occupation
    Permitting Manager / Director of Municipal Relations
  • Interests
    Guitars, Old well built machines, fast women, faster women.

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  1. Before and after of the k181 Yes, I primed it.
  2. Hello all. Just wanted to share a few pics of my 69' Raider 10 at roughly 85% complete! Still debating whether or not I want to totally repaint the tins or just wet sand and hit it with clear. I'm not doing an all original resto. Just repowering with a K181 thats been torn down and cleaned, new seals and gaskets, electrical connectors, wire replacement (about 90%), gas lines, points and condenser, rebuilt carb, and primed/painted. While I had that on the bench I rewired the chasis, scraped/cleaned/painted the tank tray, dash, various other parts, new nuts/bolts as needed, new tank, rewired lights with LED bulbs, new headlight cover, and LED tail-light. Some of the custom mods: All new stickers made to OEM specs , New Ags and rims for the back, new tires / rims on the front, stack muffler (Not pictured I think), and here is the one thing I did that I couldn't be happier with....I added a red LED light mounted on the dash wired straight to the ignition switch. When that key is on the light is on. No more running my battery dead by bumping the key when I get off, or just flat out leaving it on! I highly recommend this as it's already saved my keester about 4 times and I haven't even fired the motor. LOL. Now that I'm a supporter I can fire away with the pics! Wait for my next post. I just picked up a C120 that's been sitting in a barn for 35 years. I LOVE IT! Any advice on the final steps of making the changeover from SS to Points? I'm using the Kohlers ignition switch and wiring. I'd love to replace it though. Any idea where to get a replacement? Thanks all! 🤘✌ More pics..
  3. Piece of advice: FIRST: Call the wife and ask her to put a clean blanket and pillow out for unexpected company and immediately end the call with "Crap! Cop behind me gotta go!" THEN GO HOME and pull up with a tractor as big as a small car and not remotely practical to cut 3/4 of an acre of grass!!
  4. Agreed and I absolutely plan on it. Only reason I haven't done it yet is because I'm not entirely sure how? I'm hoping it's as easy as buying some merch, I saw a nice hat and shirt I like. If that's the case I'll be a supporter by day's end! Thanks for the reply!
  5. Toro Groundsmaster 220-D with 3cyl Diesel, hydraulic deck lift, runs and cuts, needs new pto switch, and battery. Seat is crap but Original. I have no idea bit assuming high hours. Engine is newer but not recent. I'd post a picture but I don't have the ability with the space I have left and the fact that I'm driving. On my way to see it so I need quick help if able. $500 a decent buy?
  6. *Update* Well, thanks to Garry and Nut, the Raider 12 is back up and humming again! I won't go into every detail because it would take awhile, but here are the highlights starting from when I created this thread: - Purchased points and condenser - Installed both but did nothing to the gap or timing. Did not start. - Noticed the condenser was different (Had sealed lead. Old one had lug) - Looked closer at the dash wiring, hack job. Rewired the panel with correct gauge wire and connectors. - Read replies to this thread and started on gapping and timing. - Gapped Points to.020 - cleaned and marked S & T on flywheel - metered points per pdf Nut supplied, and used Garry's advice on several other things. - The points were SO FAR out of whack it was crazy. They were Gapped around twice the required distance. - Timed the ignition which was obviously way outo as well. - Swapped plugs and reinstalled old condenser with better wiring. - Left ignition wire hang (M) and fired her up! Seems like shes missing a tad so I'm gonna adjust the Timing and carb again tomorrow. Also going to wire in, new lights, engine hour meter, Satellite radio, speakers, and 12v accessory power supply. Can't wait! Thanks again all.
  7. Nut, When you say most engines still run rough properly gapped to spec (I'm paraphrasing), am I to assume each engine will vary ever so slightly one way or the other, and I should keep adjusting until the engine runs smoothly? Could it take several tries before this happens? Thanks again!
  8. Excellent info. Thanks to the both of you. As soon as the weather breaks I'll get out there and use both of these and report back. Garry, Is there a reason I only have .23 mb of image space left to post? I had wanted to show an example of the condenser / points wiring but can't upload anything with that little space? Thanks again fellas!
  9. Can't sleep I'm so bummed. My Raider 12 I recently picked up decided to park itself in my side yard and I can't figure out what in tarnation is going on with it. She was running better than ever the day before. I had changed the oil, the plug, cleaned out the carb, set the throttle tighter with less play, cleaned the fins, sprayed DE-OX on the rusted electrical connections, tightened or replaced poor connectors showing bare wire, cleaned the grounds, and adjusted the high and low on the carb. Running beautifully after that. I was out toyin around with the cart picking up sticks and rocks, etc. for a couple hours, no problems whatsoever. Parked for the night and tarped her until I could make room in the shed. Came out the next day and went to fire her up and it just cranked and cranked. Didn't so much as hint that it wanted to turn over. Popped the cap and gas is fine, pulled the hose off the carb, cranked it and watched gas spurt out with no problem, took the plug out / grounded it / turned it over and watched it spark! So now I have two of the 3 majors checked off. I leave the plug out and put my hand over the hole and turn it, seems to have plenty of compression even with the ACR. Sounds no different than it did the day before either. I do some research and decide it must be the points or condenser. Went and picked them up yesterday and installed them, nothing. Granted, I didn't set the gap to .020, or time the ignition. Could that keep it from not starting though? I would think it would just run rough? I'm seriously bumming over this. I've been researching all day and everything I'm reading is not something I want to get involved in. I don't have the time or the space to toss this on the bench and tear her down to look for a piled up shaft, or an ever so slightly bent rod, etc.. I still have the K181 sitting on the bench just to get cleaned and new gaskets seals. That's been there for 3 weeks! (Ok, so I decided to paint it while its out, sue me). Seriously though, I need some pointers or some tough love. If I need to toss the motor on the dreaded future project bench and hunt down another one, I'll go do it I tell ya! Oh, two more quick things: The condenser that was on it had a lug with a screw. Attached to the screw was a wire from the magneto I'm guessing. Can't see what else it could have went to? And then a jumper from the lug to the points. The new condenser the guy from the shop gave me had a sealed lead with no lug. Does that sound right? I ended up hooking both to the point terminal. Could that be a problem? Finally, I was looking at my serial number (C070342) and comparing it to the manual's Engine ID sheet. It says a C denotes a 1967 but all other indications are pointing to it being a 68' Raider 12? What gives? Thanks in advance!
  10. Remind me to never challenge you to a duel.
  11. How's it coming along? I'm about halfway done my 69' 10 too and I'll tell ya....not having spark on a Solid State is like finding out which hole in the screen door is blocked. It SUCKS to the point I bought a Commando 8 and I'm now dropping the Kohler in her until I break down and switch the Tecumseh to 12 volt points, or I buy a new coil, stator, ignition, rectifier, etc.. LOL. Good luck to you and let me know if I can help in any way. I did find out A LOT about this tractor while tinkering, cleaning, and painting.
  12. Thanks Ed. Yeah, she's a beaut. That lever is the throttle. You push it forward and she's humming! I love it. You can work those RPMs with precision with that thing. I may make one for the Raider 10. Let me know what you find. I found my serial number over in the manual section for the 12's. It says "In Pennsylvania". That's wild. Never knew you could track them.
  13. Thanks Garry! Just located that and uploaded. Also edited topic to reflect 68'. Thanks again! It definitely has spacers. I just don't know why?