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Johndeereelfman last won the day on August 6 2016

Johndeereelfman had the most liked content!

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About Johndeereelfman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday August 11

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    John Deere and Wheel Horse
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lititz, PA 17543
  • Occupation
    Master Carpenter

Recent Profile Visitors

1,421 profile views
  1. Yeah, speaking of not being in a hurry!!! Restoration is still in process and that was started two years.
  2. As already stated, prep work is the key to a great finish. Take your time and don't be in a hurry to finish the project. You will get excited and want to hurry, but keep yourself from rushing. Priming your parts and making sure they are clean and smooth will help you to achieve the ultimate finish results. Some guys will wet sand parts after each part is finished with the finish coat, however I get better results in wet sanding each part after applying two coats. In other words, I apply two coats, wet sand, apply two additional coats, wet sand again, and keep following this process until I'm happy with the results. When wet sanding, start out with a lower grit and work yourself up from there. Final wet sanding should be a 1500 or 2000 grit paper. If you are planning on using a clear coat, be sure to purchase a clear coat that will be compatible with the type o paint that you choose to use for your project. Some say that Lacquer can't be used over Enamel, but I found that it can be if you allow your enameled parts to dry or cure properly before applying the Lacquer. If going with a Lacquer finish coat, I'd recommend at least 4 coats minimum, since you'll be sanding through almost two coats when it comes time to polish out the finish. Some guys use Bondo or putty to fill in rust pits, however I find it more suiting to just build up the paint (primer) until all of the pits are filled and smooth. Just make sure you allow enough time for the paint to cure, as rushing it will only cause the paint to shrink and eventually crack. If there are a lot of pits to fill, I will use a different color of primer to fill the pits then that of the primer color used to coat the tractor. This will aid in determining when you have the pits filled to the correct height of the frame, hood, footrests, etc. metal. After sanding, whether it be the primer coat or wet sanding the finish coat, always make sure the you wipe the prepped area clean before applying another coat. I like to use rubbing alcohol as it doesn't leave a film and dries quickly. It also softens the last coat a little to help the next coat adhere better. I've been using this for years and never had any problems. There are numerous tricks of the trade on this site, so before starting your project, take a look around and read through some of the threads. Many guys have some really good tips, whereas some use the basic standard methods. All in all though, we are all just trying to help each other out and passing along what works best for each of us. Good Luck to you, and looking forward to following along with you each step of the way!
  3. Adult pedal tractors?

    Haven't built one yet, but plan on doing it in the future. As soon as I can find a Snapper rear engine rider, like Tom Hanks used in the movie Forest Gump, for the right price, construction will be underway.
  4. Not sure why you say you cannot acquire the Tallman's Ag paint. I see that you are from around my area, and if you are close to the Ephrata area in Lancaster County, then you can acquire this paint brand from Paul B. Zimmerman's hardware store. If not close by, you can also purchase it online as well. Not trying to talk you out of your paint brand, but if you'd try the Tallman's brand, I'd be willing to bet that you'll never go back to your other brands. I've tried numerous brands myself throughout the years, but once I've tried Tallman's, I'm a firm believer that this is the best paint brand to work with. This paint is available in spray cans, quarts, and gallons, as is the clear coating, so no matter what your choice of method may be, they have you covered. I really like the shine that it gives even without clear coating, however as with any finish, the prep work is the key to achieving the nicest results. You can't expect to get a smooth automotive type shine by only applying one or two coats of color and one or two coats of clear without doing the hard work in between.
  5. RJ-58 Restoration

    Hey Guys, just wanted to drop in and say I didn't forget about you all. This year has just been very busy at work and I haven't had the time to get back on this tractor restoration. I'm very sorry, as I know what it's like to follow someone's post and then the poster just seems to disappear without giving the finished results. That's not my method, and I'm not deserting you guys. Somethings are just a little more important right now and from the way things looks, time won't be on my side anytime soon. I will get back to this tractor eventually, and rest assured, when I do, I will continue to post my progress. I hope you all can understand and will continue to watch for updates as time allows. Thanks Guys!!
  6. New to red square

    aboard Jake! Glad to see another PA'r here. Not too far from you, although I am far enough away to be out of range of the mushroom farm smell!!
  7. Year of manufacture is April 24, 1959. Since the letter "D" is the fourth letter of the alphabet, this "D" represents the 4th month of the year (April). The "24" represents the day of that month, and the "9" means the year such as 1959.
  8. May Trade for a Farmall Cub

    Too bad you aren't closer to Pennsylvania Terry, as we have a guy in Hershey that sells all years of these cubs. All red, red with the white grilles, all yellow, and yellow with the white grille. If you're planning on attending the big show, Hershey isn't that far from the show grounds and might be worth your trip to stop in and see him. He's located just off Route 743 just outside of Hershey. I believe you could find some of the tractors and implements listed under a Harrisburg Craigslist search. He usually has some pretty good attachments for sale.
  9. RJ-58 Restoration

    Sorry for the delay guys. Yes, I am planning on working on this tractor again, and hopefully soon. The weather here in PA is starting to warm up, however not quite to my liking just yet. Then there is the rain for what seem like every other day. Since I do all of my painting outside, I need the weather to be just a tad bit warmer yet. As soon as progress gets back underway, I will be posting again, I promise. Although, I guess I should renew my site supporter so that I can post pictures. I'll have to get the supporter dues sent out within the next week or two. Hope I can find the contacts mailing address again!
  10. RJ-58 Restoration

    No, no updates lately slim. The weather didn't hold out for me long enough to finish last year, and since my garage isn't insulated, nor does it have enough room inside, I'll have to wait for Spring to finish this project. Sorry Sir! I usually work on remodeling the house over the Winter months, just so I can stay busy. I also just took notice that my membership is about to expire, so I guess I need to get that updated as well.
  11. What are your other hobbies?

    I collect a "few" Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars! These pictures were from about six years ago, but currently the collection has tripled. At last count, there were just about 3,000 cars total. I also collect 1/16th scale farm tractor toys, and currently have a little over 2,000 pieces of those.
  12. Vacumn Attachment

    I know it's not a Wheel Horse product, but it may give you some insight or help in identifying some of your pieces.
  13. When do you paint your Wheels?

    When mounting my tires, I use gas line hose. Split it length wise, then run it around the edge of your rim and cut it to length. I use the gas line hose on the bottom edge, and for the top edge, I use a rubber channel that John Deere uses for around the edge of the dash to protect the fiberglass hoods. Once the tire is mounted, I tape off the entire tire, as I hate over spray on tires!!! If you choose to tape off the tires, use the blue painters tape, as standard masking tape will melt in the sun or heat and will cause the glue to stick to the surface of your tires.
  14. RJ-58 Restoration

    Not much progress today, as it was another disappointing day! The good: - I polished the belt guard and got that installed - I got the rear lift cable, clamp, and hitch assembly installed. - I got the brake rod and spring installed. The bad: - When I went to install the lift arm and brake/clutch pedal, I found that I needed to strip the paint from the cross member as there was no way to slide either of these pieces on. - After finally getting the lift arm installed, I realized that I never painted the lever that latches in the clip while in the raised position. - I painted the steering bushing and individual tie-rod bushing silver, however the fixed tie-rod bushing is painted red. - When I went to install the brake/clutch pedal spring, I found that I never painted the metal plate tab that attaches to the transmission plate. I finally called it a day and walked away from it. Tomorrow's another day!
  15. RJ-58 Restoration

    Got some more work done on the RJ today, although I ran into bad news. I'll get to that shortly. Anyway, I got the frame all polished up and after running to the hardware store for more stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers, I was able to get it attached to the transmission. I also polished the front axle and spindles, so they were all assembled as well. After getting the idler arm, idler pulley, and the clutch arm all polished and ready for assembly, only then did I realize that the rear wheel needed to be removed. No big deal. However, when I went to slide the idler arm through the transmission covers, I couldn't get around from having the arm all scratched up. Frustration Number 1!!! So after calming down by walking away from the project for about an hour, I figured I'll install the front wheels. After putting the first wheel on, I found that I apparently grabbed the wrong set of rims for this tractor, as the hubs on these rims aren't wide enough for the spindles. Frustrating Number 2!!! So after digging through the garage, I found another set of wheels that I'm pretty sure are the original wheels for this tractor. Only trouble is, they are full of calcium and don't appear to be in the best of shape. I couldn't break the valve stems loose, however after spraying PB Blaster around the beads, I was amazed to find out how well the beads broke. I eventually cut the valve stems off with my Dremel and cutting wheel as the stems were brass. I got the tires removed and found that the calcium was contained inside an inner tube so the insides of the rims aren't bad at all. In fact, the sides that you see in the pictures below, are the only bad areas of the rims. The backsides are in good shape and should clean up well. After the tires were removed, I installed all of the grease zerks along with the zerk caps and spindle caps that I bought from Glenn. I sure hope tomorrow goes a lot better than today did!!!