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ohiofarmer

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About ohiofarmer

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    416-8 with Onan 520-H with Onan Raider 10 with Kohler cast iron
  • favoritemodel
    Raider 10

Profile Information

  • Location
    greenville ohio
  • Occupation
    Carpenter and rentals
  • Interests
    Old japanese Motorcycles and quality older things that will last a lifetime.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Restoration Help

    I decided to try this and the results were amazing. Being cautious, I took an old seat pan from a 1075 roller. the seat sits directly on the pan and there are deep pits and heavy rust beneath along with paint scratched or worn down to the primer. So, in other words, the patina was from bad to just plain ugly. Here is what i tried, and I would not change a thing. On the deep pitting, I used a Harbor freight flap sanding disc that was very worn just enough to take off the rust that was sticking up above the surface. If i would have had some 100 grit emery cloth, that might have been better. i followed that up with some 220 grit wet sanding and just went for the correct feel as in not really taking too much off, but " i cannot stand to have high spots of rust sticking up through the paint" kind of feel. the rust pits and scratches will still be there, but where the paint is all there, it will be flat. i followed that with 600 grit and used a light touch and plenty of soap in the water to sort of polish the paint further. the paint starts to show its beauty, but that beauty will not show when it dries. To stabilize the rust, I used a rust oxidizer that contained oxalic acid and kept it wet for 5 minutes or so when you could see the bright areas of metal that all the paint was sanded off turn slightly blue. Then rinse the part and apply just a bit to those areas again. After that dried, I found a few black streaks from the oxidizer in the paint and polished them off with 600 sand paper. You will know when the look of the piece suits you. I applied Rustoleum 2X clear to the surface in almost a continuos fashion with a short 2 minute set time. this stuff sets up in a hurry. be careful in high humidity, as a white bloom can cloud the finish. I think that celebrating the battle scars is great on some of your herd. The 2X clear coat is UV stabilized so hopefully, it will last. You can sand the blems off the next day and buff [maybe a few days later] or leave it alone. you can actually handle the piece in an hour and it feels dry, but it is still gassing out a bunch of odor. i plan to take it a step farther. I did get a little white bloom on one spot, so I will sand it enough to flatten it a little and then hit it with a higher grade of clear so as to deepen the finish and clarity and then not go too far with the buffing. Then it should really look like an oiled finish The first two pictures are half the pan sanded and half original. the next pictire is rust converter. I then took a bit of black Rusteoleum and wiped it on the really rough stuff and wiped most of it off with thinner. The last two are with the clear on and not yet sanded. That is where I am right now, about 2-3 hours shop time.. Remember this is just an experiment and I would let a real project dry longer . This all got done in 8 hours total including dry times.Thanks to cshannuth for giving me the motivation to try this
  2. 312 Won't Crank Over????

    Not that I am brilliant at diagnosing problems, but i had a recent problem that 'acted ' like a safety switch. One of the wires was loose from the ammeter. Another time the clutch got out of adjustment and the safety switch did not work even though the switch was OK
  3. 312-8 electrical woes

    So post it up here. Who knows, it might help the OP
  4. 312-8 electrical woes

    Well, since we are talking tools to check things, I have a story or two. I have a little honda CB100 and the little guy would run about five miles and shut down. After cooling down some, it was start stop, rinse and repeat. i took it to a retired farmer who also wrenched part time at the auto sales in town. We started the bike and he used a timing light and noted that it would make spark, but the light was not bright at all. A mounting screw for the points was barely touching the cover and when it heated a bit, the result was a full short. We re- mounted and adjusted the base of the points spring, and all was good. A lot of guys check for spark by laying the plug on the engine block, but on the occasion the spark is weak, the plug will not fire at all once it is screwed into the block. it actually takes MORE energy to light the plug once inserted into the pressure and gasoline vapor than it does outside the block. [Source=Dansmc.com, a motorcyle repair site]. For that reason, I own a cheap Harbor Freight timing light and it has saved me tons of time. It is easy to see even one little miss with this light and even to judge how strong the spark is.Also, you can know whether or not it is sparking while cranking the engine Just a few weeks ago, the timing light caught my C-141 lying to me about an ignition problem. the VOM showed 12 volts present at the coil, but the thing would not fire. The timing light showed one spark event when I hit the starter and another when i ended cranking the engine. Further testing with the VOM showed that the coil voltage went away upon cranking. We used a temporary hot lead to the coil and it started right up. It was a bad switch. These machines are very simple as compared to auto engines, but sometimes there is a huge benefit with a small investment in tools
  5. Mower decks spacers

    From a resto-mod perspective, here is what I did. My mower deck had two little thin blocks of Delrin close to where the spacers are shown in the pictures Like Davoman has posted above. The trouble with that is dirt and moisture built up between those thin bottom blocks and rust made the slide bar drag. I had some Formica laying about and decided to just make a slide surface to support 100% of the slide bar. I made it about 1.5 inches wide and cut notches to capture it between the studs that those plastic spacer connect to i polished the underside of the slide bar to a mirror finish and used clear silicone grease between it and the slide bar. I applied red synthetic grease on the underside of the Formica to seal out moisture between the Formica and the deck surface because I did not have time to use paint. the slide action works very well two years later. if you use the belt shields over the pulleys, nobody will see it anyway. This is what I used to polish the bottom of the slide bar. https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=polycarbide
  6. 312-8 electrical woes

    Yes, this place is full of guys who love to help others. I try to have respect for their time by searching old threads. What some seem not to realize is that it may take a half hour or so to write and then edit a post. That kind of effort sometimes is not appreciated. Other times it may appear to be so and some other life issue got in the way.. i have seen some new members post their identical problem on this forum and other forums at the same time as in the scattergun approach. I will not accuse the OP of this, just saying it happens sometimes. I made a statement I regretted a few weeks ago, and the guy i offended took the time to explain a few things in private. I apologized to him privately and publicly as well. Now we are buddies Now 6, i am gonna ask you something--- Have you bought your first Wheel horse as of yet??? It will make you a happier person than ever before and when i bought mine, my feet even started smelling better. Wheel horses usually get cheaper in the fall and winter, and the magic time to buy stuff for me seems to be between late fall and the time income tax refunds are issued. Anyway, i hope the OP comes back. If not then we can all wish him well and hope his tractor runs again.
  7. So an update.... I am keeping this thing even if all i use it for is a shop camera. It is super easy to use and it has a 4X zoom. the screen is large enough to take pictures of dis-assembly and use them later and quickly zoom in on the details I probably can even add notes to the piccs. Now the phone is easy to start as all I have to do is click the thing on and use a 4 digit code. Maybe the thing finally learned that I am not interested in activating it for telephone service and just gave up. BTW, Kroger has a 14 day return privilege in case you are a cautious shopper like me I am hoping to be able to load a map program that uses GPS and is not GoogleMaps. i suspect that the included Google Maps app is somehow triggering the phone to keep asking me to activate it. My wife uses Google Maps and it is pretty creepy all the other things it does to her phone because it keeps sending stuff to our gmail account i use a tough ;military grade flip phone and although the outside screen is dead and the larger inside main screen is a bit compromised, my wife's retired flip phone [a twin of mine] can always be recalled to active duty. There is another one lost in the barn somewhere in a lumber pile. It was cheaper to replace the phone than to look for it at the time. Verizon quit giving phones away with their contracts, so i will run on what i have and continue to beat them to death in my pocket.I like my old phone as it has great battery life and a good flashlight
  8. Harbor Freight 14 HP rescued from the dead

    The 520 is a hydro
  9. C160 switch and spark issues

    And also======== Since you pulled the wiring harness from another tractor, i would suggest that you pull the key switch from that tractor as well. I went through something similar to your situation and it was caused by a key switch that tested OK for voltage to the coil and points, but when I turned the key to the cranking position and cranked the engine,no spark because the voltage to the coil went away.during the cranking event only. Sounds like a simple fix, but it was a nightmare to diagnose because I kept making the assumption that once the coil was "on" it would stay that way during the cranking of the engine. Change that switch. If for no other reason you know that it matches the wiring harness
  10. Preferred snow plow blade edge?

    Could you flip the edge upside down? I have one just about worn out that I really will not use much, but i am considering doing just that. You may have to weld some tabs on the worn edge to get it to stabilize against the blade body
  11. Harbor Freight 14 HP rescued from the dead

    And info on the aftermarket exhaust pipe if it is not too much trouble
  12. Harbor Freight 14 HP rescued from the dead

    If you buy a Predator, do it at the start of mowing season on the 90 day free warranty. If it prooves out, buy the two year extended warranty. Be looking for anything like a pooched starter wiring or oil leaks right before the end of the warranty. Even if HFT replaces the engine, you can buy the warranty again for 50 bucks. Almost like renting an engine for 25 bucks a year. I bought one and the electric starter wiring went to smoke. instead of an early replacement, I just pull started it for almost two years and got it replaced at one week before the warranty expired. I could not believe it when they offered another warranty on the replacement engine. Also be aware that the stock muffler on the Predator faces forward and would burn up the hood on your tractor. i run mine without a hood. i suppose that you could cut the muffler pipe and re-weld it to turn sideways, but the pipe appears to be cast iron Of course you could buy that 22 horsepower Predator for $700---- but you could buy a decent Wheel horse for that----
  13. Harbor Freight 14 HP rescued from the dead

    it runs a 48" deck just fine. Unlike some of the other predators, the maximum torque rates come at 2500 RPM. It uses a lot less fuel as well.. Not really hacking on the Onans, but i was ignorant and got too many leaves on the air intake and cooked mine
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