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  1. problem starter

    191-2416 is the current part number for your starter. It Supersedes/Replaces the early 191-1667 part number. The 191-2416 fits all of the BGE gensets. 99.9% of all genuine Onan replacement parts are still made in the US. However, this particular starter is made in China. The OEM version is not made in the same factory as the cheap ebay/amazon ones. I've compared them side by side and the genuine version is of a much better build quality. Are they worth 5X as much? Depends on if it's easy or difficult to swap one out. In an RV, not easy unfortunately. YMMV.
  2. 6100 carb 20hp Onan

    Here is a side by side of the early and late style "Nikki" Onan carb bowl gaskets. One corner makes all the difference! Also is a pic of that itty bittty teeny tiny ball and spring that can and will disappear if you are not VERY careful when cleaning the later style carbs with accelerator pumps. Tip of a ball point pen for reference. Ball is attached to the small end of spring and ball end goes in first. The long brass piece on the bowl cover has to go "inside" the spring when assembling.
  3. Do you have or know where I can get the spec on the degree of angle the intake valve seat bore sits, in the block to the face of the cylinder head end. I've had some TIG repair done to the bottom of the counter bore in the block for the valve seat, and am preparing to bore the valve seat hole oversized to fit your .062 oversized valve seat. Looks to be in the neighborhood of 15 degrees. I could sweep the face of the adjacent exhaust valve, but not comfortable with that, given being of a degree one way or the other could impact alignment with the valve stem to the valve guide.

    I have not seen any machine drawings or machining specs, in relation to the valve seat bore in the block itself, as original machined by Onan.

    Any help or redirection would be greatly appreciated.


  4. No Spark

    Here is the coil and module testing info. New coil if needed is under $100.00 Ignitiontest.pdf CoilTest.pdf
  5. On an 16 horse power b43m

    Several different styles of rings were used, early and later style. Important to measure the original compression rings to determine the correct replacements. 5/64 early, part # 113-0314. 1/16 late, part # 113-0310. No mic or calipers handy? A nickel is close to 5/64 and a penny is close to 1/16. Check the fit in a piston groove with your pocket change. Parts get changed over the years so you can't always go by the book with Onan piston rings.
  6. Picking up another one

    You're welcome! The production orders were reissued over and over. Hey Onan! Wheelhorse calling, We need another 500 of the P220G with spec of 10955D. Thanks, WH. Your Onan engine was made Dec 1992. First digits in the serial, L92. Letter is the month. A=Jan, B=Feb etc.
  7. Picking up another one

    Nice score on the 520-H! Here is the Onan factory production order for it.
  8. 416-8 resurrection

    In addition to the advice already mentioned, the cylinders will be very dry after 10 years! Before trying to get it to fire up first remove the spark plugs and squirt/pour some fresh motor oil into the cylinders. At least 2-3 teaspoons worth. Turn engine over with the starter for 3-5 seconds. Might place some rags over the plug holes to catch any oil that might escape. Also the specific Onan engine model is P216G.
  9. Vacuum oil removal

    Agree the 520-H is a great machine! Disagree that Onan engine parts are getting scarce. We are not having any problems getting them. Cummins/Onan is still manufacturing all the common replacement parts. Pistons, rings, con rods, carbs, gaskets, seals, stators, voltage regulators etc. Millions of parts in stock at the Onan warehouse in Mephis. Also a vast amount of NOS, New Old Stock parts available. On the oil drain pipe nipple, as others have already stated, Loctite or any good thread sealant at the pan will eliminate leaks etc.
  10. Thinking about 520H Repower

    The new gaskets might show up tomorrow, Saturday. Monday only if USPS gets lost! Use a High Temp anti sieze on the head bolts. Nickel based is good but the copper stuff is OK too. No anti seize? Motor oil is better than nothing. Torque the bolts to 5 Ft-Lb, then 10 Ft-Lb, then go around again at 14-16 Ft-Lb. Wait a minute or two, go around again and double check the torque. Graphoil gaskets compress when torqued, more so than non graphoil gaskets, and will settle slightly. Have never had to retorque Onan air-cooled head gaskets once done as described. Good Luck!
  11. Onan P220G

    +1 on the above. If the valves have never been adjusted that may be all it needs unless it has other issues.
  12. Onan rods

    The oil "spurt" holes were designed to lube the cam above the rods. At some point they figured out enough oil is thrown off the crank/rods to keep the cam happy without the need for those holes. Eliminating both the oil holes/grooves and the hole in the I-beam casting improved the overall strength of the rods. Shot peening the new style rods was/is done to improve the fatigue life of the Aluminum alloy used.
  13. Onan rods

    The oil hole and the groove, along with the hole in the beam section were eliminated long ago by Onan engineers. New style 18HP & 20HP con rods have casting # 170-4447A, B, C etc.
  14. 520-H turns over/won't start

    Sure can! Rotor is a 166-0767 and the module is a 166-0785. Have you done the module test in the manual? Ignitiontest.pdf
  15. 516H Onan

    New filter adapters discontinued long ago. Used ones available. First, can you make out the Onan ID sticker info on the top of the engine shroud? If so, what are the full model and spec numbers? Second, pull the plastic plug from the side cover and take a look. Can you see the block off plate? Two bolts holding it. Should be an oil sensor screwed into the plate.