R. L. Addison

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About R. L. Addison

  • Rank
    R. L. Addison (dunngawn)
  • Birthday 06/21/1943

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1979 C141 - Stock, 1979 C141 - Modified, Rear hydraulic lift added (90, 91, 92, not sure) big base K321
  • favoritemodel
    Most

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pekin, Il. 61554
  • Occupation
    Retired,- Machine Repairman, 2nd line mission
  • Interests
    Wheel Horses,

Recent Profile Visitors

648 profile views
  1. 10, 12, 14 are all the same - 16 (K341) is same diameter, but about twice as wide.
  2. My release lever's are always rattling (and never) used on my C141's, and a source of noise and wear. My bet would be that is the main reason for elimination. I have run one for two years or more with the lever in the spare parts bin, and I think that is a good place for it unless / or until I sell it. I think PO put the wrong idler (too small) on the other one, and when I check it out, that lever I'm thinking will join the first. The first & only clue was the belt coming off while pushing snow (temperature barely above zero).
  3. I have a habit of replacing dashes with slide throttle & choke controls ( like the 74 & up "B" & "C" series ) as I get along with them better with my arthritis and at the same time I go the solenoid starter control. Can"t do it many more times though, I have just two new backer plates & plastic dash plates left, and I'd like to find some project tractors to keep me out of mischief.
  4. I have lined up the shaft hole in a drill press, clamped every thing solid, raised the drill out of the hole, (when happy with alignment) & put mating part on shaft & drilled, and been pretty successful that way, but I would probably sent it out too, knowing someone who could do a job like that. There are many machine shops that would have botched a job like that. That one looks to me to be superior.
  5. I have a good K532 if you would rather keep it.
  6. Sounds to me like a "busted Piston" with the smoke, maybe lost one governor weight?
  7. My experience when I autopsy bad switches regardless of symptoms, is that the charging system, feeding back through the switch, overloads the terminal, it gets hot, and burns the contacts inside, they melt the plastic or in some instances the heat collapses the springs, and sometimes even burns into the terminal disc allowing intermittant contact, thus causing frustration and foul thoughts.
  8. I would try a new switch. I've seen this before on a couple vehicles, and it cured the malady.
  9. I have several parts for a "D" series (basically an entire tractor except for rear tires & rims. I cannot as of this minute submit pictures as I remain financially embarrassed, and supporting this website is part of my goal with these sales. The hour meter from this tractor shows 386.5 hours, (back hoe & loader unit) and I think this could be accurate from what I have seen. 1975 D200 model 1 0631 serial 84324 Clutch- Complete, rivet heads well below facings, $175.00 Coupling- Disc & splined driver, engine to hydro pump, excellent condition, $ 45.00 splined driver, hydro driver, excellent condition $ 30.00 P.T.O. unit complete, cracked pulley, missing midship bearing, coupling frozen $ 45.00 Front axle, pin, spindles, wheels, tie rods, bellcrank, bushing, bolt, & draglink (very little wear) 1" $ 175.00 Cylinders- midmount & rear, (each) $ 40.00 Axles & Rear hub (fixable second hub included if requested) $ 50.00 Hyd. lift valve- (no Float detent) $ 100.00 Midmount (center) lift shaft & trunions $ 25.00 Hyd. manifold $ 60.00 Steering column (needs work) $ 25.00 Steering wheel (sun bleached) $ 20.00 Engine (K532) No smoke, runs good (inquire) (complete, runable) $ 450.00 I have all sheet metal etc. and will help in any way I can if you need anything not listed. I hope I am not out of line on these prices. I've had "D"'s in the past, but prefer "C"'s. I have other parts also, Ron Addison (309) 241- 7289
  10. The difference in the model # is the letter "a" follows the K321 for small base (K321as for small base) and big base will be K321s (s for starter). I personally prefer the big base over the "a" base as I have had the starter wire to the solenoid and coil wire break several times from vibration, and I have had belt slippage under heavier load. I have replaced one of my engines (with a big base engine) and see less problems. (Direct Bolt on.)
  11. I would love to have that weed mower, unfortunately with this scam, I'm "fresh out" of money & luck.
  12. I just went through that very thing with a K532 and when I switched two wires on the ign. switch it started up. (Coil wire was hooked to the acc. terminal.)
  13. Sounds to me like it may have been at least short blocked, or more. Seems to me I remember that type #'s on replacements.
  14. My first WH was a roundhood 854 in about 1967, and can't remember not having at least one, and sometimes as many as a dozen (a couple times ) since. Only one I could write a history even close to this on, but I could never do it as well as you have!
  15. I also will put the trunion on an anvil or something solid and smack it several times with a heavy hammer as a last resort. this disturbs the roots that grow between the threads (lol). Seriously that usually works for me (after soaking).