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graywolf1939

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About graywolf1939

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    C1100 Special

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  • Location
    Leicester, Massachusetts

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  1. Torque spec for remounting flywheel

    He sure is !
  2. Torque spec for remounting flywheel

    Thank you Garry, I see that it is 50 to 55 lbs.
  3. Torque spec for remounting flywheel

    What is the specification for torque limit when remounting a flywheel on an ONAN P218 engine ? This would be the CENTER bolt, not the four around the center bolt.
  4. WH Model 518 will not start

    You are probably correct Howie, I can't think of any other thing that could cause the key to break. It ran a whole season however after I replaced the ignition trigger ring and module before this happened, so maybe it slowly loosened. I will use a torque wrench when I replace the key.
  5. WH Model 518 will not start

    You are correct Garry, that certainly can happen. I checked compression, it is 120 and 121 PSI. And, the plugs do fire installed, but the timing is off. I found a broken flywheel shaft key. That is causing the problem. I don't know how it broke however. Thank you for your reply Garry !
  6. Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]

    This is the key that is listed for the WH model 518-H, P218 Onan engine. My question is, which way does this mount on the crankshaft? If you insert the long end into the flywheel, there is not enough reach on the other end to reach the slot in the trigger ring. If you insert the long end into the trigger ring slot, the stub end is not long enough for the flywheel slot !! Are there TWO keys that must be used ? If there is only one key, does that mean that the trigger ring does not need a key in it's larger spaced slot, but uses just a friction fit on the crankshaft ?
  7. Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]

    Great job with demo photos Andrew! As others have mentioned, a picture is worth a thousand words. I have a 1988 Model 518-H that suddenly would not start after turning it off and trying to restart within 1 minute. One backfire and never to start again. Long story short, I pulled the flywheel today and found the key that mounts on the crankshaft and extends into the ignition ring broken. The only piece remaining was the part that sits into the depression in the crankshaft. I was looking at your photos of your repair of ignition module, but I could not detect the key beyond the end of the shaft in your photo. As I do not have the missing part of the key, I "assume" (bad word) that this key actually does extend all the way into the larger key-way slot in the ignition ring? The long key that sits in the flywheel and extends a bit beyond the inside of the flywheel was OK. The Ignition ring was free to move without it's locking key to the drive shaft, thus throwing the starting effort way off timing as it could free-wheel around the crank shaft.
  8. WH Model 518 will not start

    A further update. I removed the top of the carburetor and both bowls were clean, full of fuel, floats worked well, jets clear of any crap. I used a can of Sea foam, some in the carb., the rest in the fuel tank, no change, turns over well but will not start. I next checked the compression to see if I had a bad valve. Struck out here also, both cylinders read 120 lbs. My service tech. where I bought my 518 in 1988 says everything that I have checked says the engine start. The plugs are wet, so they are getting gas, the spark plugs are firing OK when I removed them and checked their firing. The only thing remaining is the key on the engine shaft. It is an elongated key on one end, that this longer extension is what ios also keyed into the ignition ring. If it is somehow slipping or not engaging properly, it will throw off the timing and cause a non start. What puzzles me is the fact that I have turned the flywheel by hand, and the plugs fire every time at about 12 degrees before TDC. So why won't the damn engine start ???? I guess I have everyone stumped on this forum, plenty of reads, no replies. Tomorrow I pull the flywheel again and check the key.
  9. The magnet ring and ignition module as well as the coil and condenser was replaced in 2016. It ran the rest of the 2016 mowing season with no problems. In the Spring of 2017 It started fine. A few minutes later I tried to start it again, it backfired once, would not start ever again. I got back to troubleshooting the ignition problem this Spring, it still would not start. It would turn over OK, it would backfire up through the carburetor once or twice while cranking over. I checked the coil (1 year old bought from AFC) and the primary was shorted and secondary read 70 ohms!! Bad coil. I replaced the coil today, I now have spark, but it still will not start, and it occasionally backfires while cranking. Battery is at full charge, gas is fresh, plugs are brand new. Removing one plug and checking for spark while turning the flywheel by hand yields a spark at near top dead center mark on flywheel, just about 1/2" to left of the TDC mark. So if timing is on the mark, gas is fresh, plugs have spark and are new, why will this Onan not start ??? Could the ignition module be intermittent? Could the flywheel key be damaged somewhat ( seems unlikely seeing the plug fires at near TDC) causing erratic timing? I am puzzled.
  10. In 2016, my H518 died one hot summer day while mowing after 1 hour. I had to change out the ignition module, the magnet ring and the coil along with the condenser. The tractor worked fine the rest of the summer in 2016. Then in the Spring of 2017 I had to move the tractor in the garage. It started fine, I moved it to a new location withing the garage but after shutting off the engine, I decided that it had to move a little further. It started, backfired and quit and never started again. I never had time to get back to troubleshooting the problem until yesterday. Using a test light, the ignition module tested fine, the plugs were new, gas to carburetor OK, but it still would not start. I disconnected the coil and here is what I found: the Primary read zero "0" ohms, and the Secondary read 70 ohms. Bad Coil after only one season. The part number that I ordered was 541-0522 in 2016. The original coil lasted 26 years !!! Does this speak well for aftermarket knock-off parts? Probably built in China ? I am ordering a replacement from Power Parts in Minnesota that carries the OEM part number of 166-0761, and looks exactly like the one that failed after 26 years. Has anyone else had per-mature ignition coil failures ???
  11. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    I cut my first lawn yesterday since repairing the ignition issues, it sure felt good to have this great tractor running well again. I also have to change the filter and oil soon. The weather has been great here in MA, all the bad storms have been going south into the Middle Atlantic states, and other fronts have gone into the northern New England states, however we are very dry, lawns are turning brown and we need to water the garden every day, luckily we have an artesian well. Hope you have a great summer also and safe from Tornadoes
  12. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    SUCCESS !!!! Replaced the black ignition ring with a new one (Gray) strong magnets, and the beast roared to life !!! Just to sum up the problems, the coil secondary was bad also, open winding. The ignition module may be still OK, I will check this out later on the bench to see if the circuit will operate with a makeshift tester. Now the H518 has a new capacitor, a new coil, a new ignition module (and heat shield spacer), and a new ignition ring. The former parts lasted 29 years, so if these new parts last that long I will be 102 years old and probably won't even be able to mount the horse any longer !!! LOL As a side note, after removing all the parts to get at the ignition module and ignition ring, as well as the coil, I can now do this blindfolded, sort of like field stripping my old M14 from Army days. Thank you to all who contributed some really GREAT information regarding this problem, may you all win the lottery !! Dick
  13. 518H 18HP Onan

    Hi Jess, I did not get a chance to try out the Ignition rotor because the battery was dead and won't hold a charge, so I bought a new battery at Tractor Supply this afternoon, haven't installed it yet. However, the old ring was indeed a black one, and the magnets were weak, one of them was so weak that it wouldn't even hold a paper clip !!! The new gray ring magnets were plenty strong. Hopefully I will riding the range once again next week. Have a great weekend everyone, and Happy Father's Day to all dad's out there in Wheel Horse land.
  14. 518H 18HP Onan

    I just received mine also Jess, I have been so darn busy here that I haven't had time to pull the flywheel off and change out the rotor. I did check the magnets in the new rotor and they are strong enough to hold an envelope opener knife !!! I will check out the old one hopefully on Thursday.
  15. 518H 18HP Onan

    I can tell you guys from personal experience, the engine crank shaft has a very small slot cut into the shaft in which the ignition rotor outer edge positions itself. I discovered this when I was reassembling the flywheel the first time. I noticed that the large keyway slot on the ring was NOT lined up with the keyway on the crank shaft. I tried to move the ring (rotate it back) by my fingers and it would not budge. At this point I called my WH dealer who told me DO NOT grab with a screwdriver because it would break the plastic ring. So, I decided to carefully use a needle nose pliers to try and get it to rotate. I was finally able to rotate the ring to the aligned position. The the key fit into the large slot in the ring and the raised part of the key sat nicely into the slot in the crank shaft, and the key had a small rear amount of key length that would align with the flywheel slot. As Jess stated, the stator ring mounts with three screws so there is no adjustments here. The Ignition module mounts with two screws, and there is absolutely no adjustment to be made here either. The only possible adjustment that can be made is with the insulator thickness. Obviously you can have minimum spacing with no spacer in which the IM is right up against the engine housing, and by adding more spacers, 1, 2, etc, you will increase the spacing that the pickup head has from the body of the engine, and therefore the Ignition ring magnet alignment. Perfect alignment would occur when the center of the Ignition module pickup head is dead center with the magnet/s on the edge of the ring. GW, great info, love it. As for my test light that I bought at an automotive part (DAP) store, I hope it is Ok for this purpose (WH testing) I will do a current draw test this weekend to see if I am drawing in the range of 3 to 4 amps (12V/3.1 Ohms primary winding) which should indicate that the lamp being used in my light probe is not introducing an error (no ON/OFF that is clearly indicated when cranking over the engine).
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