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About graywolf1939

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Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    C1100 Special

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  • Location
    Leicester, Massachusetts

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  1. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    I cut my first lawn yesterday since repairing the ignition issues, it sure felt good to have this great tractor running well again. I also have to change the filter and oil soon. The weather has been great here in MA, all the bad storms have been going south into the Middle Atlantic states, and other fronts have gone into the northern New England states, however we are very dry, lawns are turning brown and we need to water the garden every day, luckily we have an artesian well. Hope you have a great summer also and safe from Tornadoes
  2. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    SUCCESS !!!! Replaced the black ignition ring with a new one (Gray) strong magnets, and the beast roared to life !!! Just to sum up the problems, the coil secondary was bad also, open winding. The ignition module may be still OK, I will check this out later on the bench to see if the circuit will operate with a makeshift tester. Now the H518 has a new capacitor, a new coil, a new ignition module (and heat shield spacer), and a new ignition ring. The former parts lasted 29 years, so if these new parts last that long I will be 102 years old and probably won't even be able to mount the horse any longer !!! LOL As a side note, after removing all the parts to get at the ignition module and ignition ring, as well as the coil, I can now do this blindfolded, sort of like field stripping my old M14 from Army days. Thank you to all who contributed some really GREAT information regarding this problem, may you all win the lottery !! Dick
  3. 518H 18HP Onan

    Hi Jess, I did not get a chance to try out the Ignition rotor because the battery was dead and won't hold a charge, so I bought a new battery at Tractor Supply this afternoon, haven't installed it yet. However, the old ring was indeed a black one, and the magnets were weak, one of them was so weak that it wouldn't even hold a paper clip !!! The new gray ring magnets were plenty strong. Hopefully I will riding the range once again next week. Have a great weekend everyone, and Happy Father's Day to all dad's out there in Wheel Horse land.
  4. 518H 18HP Onan

    I just received mine also Jess, I have been so darn busy here that I haven't had time to pull the flywheel off and change out the rotor. I did check the magnets in the new rotor and they are strong enough to hold an envelope opener knife !!! I will check out the old one hopefully on Thursday.
  5. 518H 18HP Onan

    I can tell you guys from personal experience, the engine crank shaft has a very small slot cut into the shaft in which the ignition rotor outer edge positions itself. I discovered this when I was reassembling the flywheel the first time. I noticed that the large keyway slot on the ring was NOT lined up with the keyway on the crank shaft. I tried to move the ring (rotate it back) by my fingers and it would not budge. At this point I called my WH dealer who told me DO NOT grab with a screwdriver because it would break the plastic ring. So, I decided to carefully use a needle nose pliers to try and get it to rotate. I was finally able to rotate the ring to the aligned position. The the key fit into the large slot in the ring and the raised part of the key sat nicely into the slot in the crank shaft, and the key had a small rear amount of key length that would align with the flywheel slot. As Jess stated, the stator ring mounts with three screws so there is no adjustments here. The Ignition module mounts with two screws, and there is absolutely no adjustment to be made here either. The only possible adjustment that can be made is with the insulator thickness. Obviously you can have minimum spacing with no spacer in which the IM is right up against the engine housing, and by adding more spacers, 1, 2, etc, you will increase the spacing that the pickup head has from the body of the engine, and therefore the Ignition ring magnet alignment. Perfect alignment would occur when the center of the Ignition module pickup head is dead center with the magnet/s on the edge of the ring. GW, great info, love it. As for my test light that I bought at an automotive part (DAP) store, I hope it is Ok for this purpose (WH testing) I will do a current draw test this weekend to see if I am drawing in the range of 3 to 4 amps (12V/3.1 Ohms primary winding) which should indicate that the lamp being used in my light probe is not introducing an error (no ON/OFF that is clearly indicated when cranking over the engine).
  6. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    Got it, thank you Jess !!
  7. 518H 18HP Onan

    Jess, another point to consider regarding the screen guard over the flywheel. The danger of leaving this off is from grass and debris being sucked into the air intake and tube up to the air filter. When I cut my big lawn area up back (more like a field that needs a goat), I constantly have to lean over and brush away all the grass & hay that clogs the screen. I will bet that most of us have the same issue. This screen, when clogged sufficiently, and add in a hot day out in full sunlight, and over an hour of constant mowing, the temperature rise on the Ignition Module must be quite high. Save Old Iron, I have a new coil, ONAN part, 3.4 ohms on primary , new ignition module, original ignition rotor. When I used my test meter (clip to positive terminal on coil and probe tip to Negative terminal on coil, and crank over the engine, the light stays ON but it seems also to dim slightly (flicker) as it cranks. Could this be a weak magnet in the Rotor seeing this part was never replaced ? ALL, I have built several computers and was thinking that maybe a closed loop liquid cooling system like the ones used in power computer that Gamers use, might be worth a try on my 518. The coolant line could be run against the IM if there is sufficient room, and this would certainly keep the IM cool under all load conditions.
  8. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    I cannot find "Save Old Iron: comments on Jess's page, where is it ?
  9. 518H 18HP Onan

    I have a new rotor on order also, the coil was bad on mine, secondary was open. I have a new IM installed also, and a new capacitor. The engine would crank over very fast, had plenty of gas getting to carb. and plugs are good, so that only left the rotor and weak magnets. If the rotor magnets are weak, there is no way the IM circuit will energize and allow current to pass through the Primary of the coil to ground .
  10. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    Good evening Jeff, when I had the flywheel off a few days ago, the ignition ring was really stuck because I had to try to turn it back about 90 degrees to get the key lined up on the shaft before I could place the flywheel back on. It was really stuck on there after 28 years. I finally got it turning, and it does sit in a small groove cut into the drive shaft, that is why I asked if anyone had taken one off. I don't know if you have to pry it up out of the groove, or some other technique. I think Boomer will know, he must have changed out many. I didn't get a chance to take things apart today, the grass was too long after yesterdays rain so I had to use the walk behind and you can imagine how long it takes to cut over 1 acre. Cheers, Dick Thanks for the info RubyCon1, that is a neat way to check the IM, and the trigger ring magnets also. According to another post, I forgot who, but they said a flat blade screwdriver held between finger and brought close to the ring should be able to support the screw driver if the magnets are still strong, otherwise replace the ring.
  11. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    How did you pull this ring out Jeff, it seems as though it sits in a groove on the crank shaft. As for testing this little devil, I am going to see if I can use the old module and the old ring to build a test set up. If you look at the schematic of the ignition system, when the spinning ring with it's magnet comes in line with the pickup head on the ignition module, the circuitry inside the module produces a ground for the primary winding of the coil completing the electrical circuit. This allows the current flowing in the primary of the coil to produce a stepped up high voltage in the secondary of the coil and ultimately the spark at the plugs. Curious minds want to know...LOL Cheers, Dick
  12. 518 still will not start !!! Grrr

    Hi Jeff, yes, I seem to remember the ring WAS BLACK because it had slipped around on the crank shaft about 90 degrees when I removed the flywheel, so I had to slip it back to align it to the key-way slot. Damn......now I have to take the whole doggone shroud etc etc off again, pull the flywheel, etc to check out and more than likely replace the ring. It would make some logical sense that the magnets may be weak because as I check the negative side of the coil with my light tester, the light dims but has what seems to be a very weak flicker. If the magnetic pulse is too weak, the circuit in the module will not produce a solid ground for the primary of the coil. Without a strong current in the primary of the coil, the secondary of the coil will not produce a high enough voltage to cause a spark jump in the plug electrodes. I guess I know what I will be doing tomorrow morning !!!
  13. My 518 bought new in 1988 started having electrical problems when hot (typical coil/ignition module issues) so I replaced both. The coil was bad, secondary was open, but while I had the flywheel off I cleaned the engine, replaced the ignition module, but not the ignition ring as it looked fine. After the parts arrived, I installed the ignition module and made sure the ring (which had moved while removing the flywheel) had the key-way lined up with the new key on the crankshaft, and installed the new coil. Engine cranks over fine, carb is getting fuel, no spark to plugs. The test light lights when on the neg. terminal of the coil and dims when cranking (stays dim while cranking, I cannot see pulsing action. The test light on the positive side of the coil is lit and stays lit while cranking dimming slightly. I pulled one plug and checked for spark while cranking...nothing, no spark on a good plug. The new insulator "IS" on the back of the ignition module. Can the ignition ring be bad? If so, how, it looked fine, no cracks, no damage noticeable.

    Thank you Steve for your reply. I am able to do some modifying OK, I just wanted to hear from the Wheel Horse family to see if anyone has actually had to replace or rebuild their 1980, C1100 Special B&S engine. I can't believe I am the first...the engine is still running, starts right up, but no power to work.

    Thank you Marv, have a great weekend Dick