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About Vixmith

  • Rank
  • Birthday 12/16/1947

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1981 C-175A; 1990 520 H
  • favoritemodel
    520 H

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Waterford, Ohio

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629 profile views
  1. zerk fittings and greasing

    Hey Tankman, Great and thorough reply. Thanx BuKu ! I was just hoping they might have moved the zerk and I wouldn't have to easy -out it. :>( Rainy day work, along with finding the zerk(s) on the steering gears. Would like to locate them then run a remote tubing and pipe fitting line to a more convenient place for my grease gun. That's a common method or greasing bearings in industrial practice. Thanx again.
  2. zerk fittings and greasing

    Tankman, How do I know if that front axle zerk is missing on my 520H? My C160 and my C175 both had that fitting and I regularly greased it. Was on the bottom center of axle. Can't find one on my 1990 520H. Maybe in a different location ??
  3. Seat for 520H

    I would appreciate recommendations for a replacement seat for my 1990 520H. Original seat has several holes and sponge sticking out. Big problem is me sliding sideways when mowing along a slope. Thanx for the help.
  4. C 175 , pig in a poke

    Paint look so good you might want to just park it and look at it ... {:>) I have a c175 A like this.. fouled plugs badly because I mowed and tilled long garden with it on a sidewise tilt. That burnt out the rings till it used much oil and fouled plugs... the internal lube system wasn't much on the Kohler KT 17 engine.. Hope you don't have that problem.
  5. What is destroying my belts?

    Hello, Fellows of the Red Horse. I have been away from this interesting BEM challenge and just returned to scan the entries. So far, I missed the part where formariz offered the conclusion to his way over-directed, almost-too-much-help-offered studies and trials. Please let me know what the conclusion, final conclusion, is. My summer has been put on hold awaiting such revelation. Thanx BuKu, VGS
  6. What is destroying my belts?

    Hello Formariz, Your BEM (Belt Eating Monster) issue has been a thoroughly interesting read for me over the last couple of days....with interruptions of course. The expertise and experience shared on this website is unparalleled. Please allow me to offer - as someone above called it - my 2 cents. My knowledge of V-belts comes from being an engineer in several industrial plants. and I will open with apologies to anyone offended because I do not intend to lecture. Just hoping to share experience learned the hard way so others don't have to. Ed Kennell was one of the first I noted to mention the tensioning part of the problem. I had surmised that to be a key to what was causing the BEM. There are also a couple of other things that happen when belts are run too long without enough tension. The v-grooves in the pulleys wear...not just wider but they wear curved wider sides in the grooves. Proper v-belt function depends on having the correct profile belt in a matching profile groove. When the two do not match you will get belt slippage and wear in both the driver and the driven sheaves. (on fans in plants this was common and manifested as a belt squeak - very loud at times.) When replacing the belts, it is always a good idea to gauge the grooves in all the sheaves. You can get plastic sheave gauges from an industrial supply. Like Grainger. And you NEVER want the belt to contact the bottom of the sheave groove. The drive surface is the sloped sides of belt and sheave. I know you said you replaced the sheaves on you mower, but in one of the later photos it appeared you were still using the original main 2-grooved sheave where the engine belt connects. ALSO, I would not rely on just the sheaves being "new". With your experiences on this BEM, I would gauge even the new sheaves.....all around the sheave. Very glad you found a belt that seems to work much better. And that it turned out to be the least expensive belt. Another issue is the way a v-belt acts when it wraps around a sheave: as it wraps, it acts like our bellies do when we lean down to get a beer from the bottom shelf in the fridge; It forms a "belly" that squeezes out to the sides. This "belly" formation results in heating as it crowds its way into the groove. One solution is to use what Gates Belts used to call a "grip notch" belt. Notches in the belly of the belt allow it to wrap the sheave and close up the spaces between the notches without squeezing so much out against the sheave. They run cooler and are always rated higher horsepower than a straight bellied v-belt. Just be careful that grass, etc cannot be drawn in between the sheave and belt during operation. That does not appear to be a problem with your manicured lawn - beautiful BTW. When I was working every day in a plant, I always had a handy copy of the Gates Belt green catalog. (even used it on my PE exam) Checked for you on line and here is a link to their current "design manual". Please check out the TROUBLESHOOTING section that starts on page D39 I trust you will find other sections interesting and useful. http://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/industrial/power-transmission/catalogs/heavy_duty_vbelt_drive_design_manual.pdf?la=en Especially its discussion on aligning sheaves with a straight edge. (page D31) OK... So I prevaricated. This entry now looks like a lecture. Sorry. From my teaching days. Thanx BuKu, And good luck ! Vic Smith, PE
  7. 48" deck from 520HC rebuild

    Cleat, Thanx BuKu for the blade-checking info. Always get lots of helpful stuff from this site. BTW, since I am asking, I have a C-175A with a KT-17 engine. Bought new in 1981. when mowing or tilling I sometimes ran long distances on a slant. I believe that contributed to ring wear due to loss of lubrication inside the engine. It was using lots of oil, so I took engine to a rebuilder. .......Then life happened and it has been ignored for a long time. Planning to re-install the engine this summer. Is there any modification I can do before reinstalling that will make the internal engine lube better? It does NOT have a spin-on engine oil filter so I don't think it has much of an oil pump. Thanx, Vic
  8. 48" deck from 520HC rebuild

    Cleat, this is an outstanding rebuild very professionally done! Appreciate it much with all your info. My 48" SD deck is in need of much the same and if you don't mind I will attempt to plagiarize your work. My deck is leaving some streaks in the lawn, as if some of the blades are not cutting level with others. what did you do to check blade alignment horizontally and vertically? Asking because it appeared there was some warpage remaining after you repaired all the cracks on the stripped down deck. Great job ! Wish I had your talent. Thanx, VGS
  9. 1990 520H Hydro Change Procedure

    Wow.... A long , but interesting discussion thread. just about whether to keep Teflon and other trash out of the Hydrostatic transmission and Hydraulic system... Yes, Keep it out. Most all hydraulic systems use a suction strainer - a metal screen of not-too-fine mesh. This is to keep catastrophes out of the pump without causing cavitation by choking the pump inlet. Cavitation rapidly accelerates pump wear. After the pump, a very few hydraulic systems use a pressure-side filter. Such a filter will have a cast steel housing with disposable element inside, all designed to contain the hydraulic pressure without creating high pressure drop across the filter element. Following the control valve(s) and actuators or hydraulic motors, most hydraulic systems then have a spin-on can filter in the line where oil returns to reservoir. Both the high pressure filter and the return line filters will have a bypass valve method so that oil flow is not impeded by a blocked filter. This is usually a spring holding the filter element that allows the element to be bypassed by oil flow when the pressure drop across the element exceeds design limit. The transmission and hydraulic pump on our 520H's and other WH stalwarts will not be happy if we let any Teflon enter them. Thanx BuKu for all the discussion on this thread.
  10. 1990 520H Hydro Change Procedure

    Cleat, et. al., You raise an extremely good point about Teflon tape. As a maintenance engineer and instructor of college level hydraulics and pneumatics, I have had some experience with hydraulic stuff. Have some cutaways and dis-assembled parts that failed. Have used them for examples. One was a hydraulic pump that had been destroyed by Teflon tape. When mechanics had done some piping, they wrapped the male pipe ends with Teflon tape but started about 1/4" before the end of the fitting / pipe. This resulted in Teflon tape dropping over the end of the male pipe thread. It subsequently found its way to the hydraulic pump and gathered in the clearances, creating destructive wear. The pump had to be replaced. Correction was as Cleat recommends, "Hold the sealant back 1 1/2 threads from the end" in this case the end of the bolt. I would expect Teflon paste to do the same thing as tape inside pumps and valves. The other problem with venting via the bolt is that next time you remove it, there is always the opportunity for whatever sealant used the previous time can fall from the bolt into the transmission. Just another reason that I prefer venting air back up through the fill tube with my small tygon tubing in the funnel. Less chance of foreign crap getting into the transmission, which is a Hydraulic machine, or of leaks cropping up in hard-to-reach places - which forces the need for the sealant in the first place. Thanx to echoffmann for opening this discussion thread. Always happy to learn and to share lessons learned.
  11. 1990 520H Hydro Change Procedure

    Hello fellow Red Square folks, posting the pix I mentioned in comment #5 above in this thread for my funnel and tube tool to fill the 520H's transmission: #1 shows funnel in fill tube to note how far down it goes into the tube. #2 shows measuring the tube alongside the dipstick to see how far to let it hang down the fill tube below the bottom of the funnel. #3 shows my sloppy duct taping of the tygon air vent tube in the top of the funnel. Avoiding any possibility of a siphon. Hope this is of some benefit to others.. Thanx, VGS Cleat, You are absolutely right. Had so much trouble getting the Hi-Res pix from my cell phone re-sized for downloading to RS that I lost focus on what they were actually showing....early 0n-set Alzheimiers' ???? {:>)) (RE-sizing the .jpg file.) In fact I have never had to use this method for adding engine oil. It flows easily into the larger engine fill tube with no air-locking. Only used it for the transmission oil fill. When I bought this tractor last spring, I had to add 2 qts to transmission just to get it to load onto trailer. Figger the shop guy had changed the oil and had so much trouble getting new oil in that he just said "Close enough!" and stopped. Added another quart when I got it home. That's when I figgered out this vented funnel. No leaks since topping off. Runs great. Thanx for the correction. Apologies to everybody my erroneous pix confused. ~ VGS
  12. 1990 520H Hydro Change Procedure

    Hello fellow Red Square folks, posting the pix I mentioned in comment #5 above in this thread for my funnel and tube tool to fill the 520H's transmission: #1 shows funnel in fill tube to note how far down it goes into the tube. #2 shows measuring the tube alongside the dipstick to see how far to let it hang down the fill tube below the bottom of the funnel. #3 shows my sloppy duct taping of the tygon air vent tube in the top of the funnel. Avoiding any possibility of a siphon. Hope this is of some benefit to others.. Thanx, VGS
  13. Phatboy, I don't think I would take this advice....That could turn into TWO mothers-in-law.... Ha, Ha.... That is a cherry 520H !!
  14. 1990 520H Hydro Change Procedure

    When re-filling through the dipstick tube I had much trouble because the oil was trying to go down and the air inside the empty transmission was trying to escape through the same dipstick tube. Nothing would move. My solution: Get a length of 1/4" tygon tubing and insert it through a 6" plastic funnel letting the end hang down to a point equal to the length of the "full" mark on the dipstick. You will want to measure from where the funnel rests on the dipstick tube. Duct tape it there so it will not move when filling transmission. When the new oil goes down the dipstick tube, the air escapes up the tygon tubing until the oil level inside the transmission reaches the bottom of the tygon tubing, ie., the full mark on the dipstick. Then it will air lock again and stop letting oil go down the funnel. Makes no messes because I left the end above the funnel long enough but not a siphon. Works well. Definitely speeds up oil going into the transmission. May have to take funnel/tube arrangement out and run the transmission a couple of times till you get the complete 5 Qt's into the transmission. NOTE: recommend you measure how much oil you drain so you will know how much to put back in. Good Luck. I will try to get some pic's of this arrangement on here later this evening. Really like my 520H !
  15. Buying 520h in three days

    For that noisy mower deck, the first thing I would check is the deck v_belt that is under the cover plates on top of the deck. Be sure the belt has no cracks, missing chunks, and that it is fitted properly to the V pulleys and the spring-loaded idler pulley. That idler pulley needs to be clean and moving back and forth freely with its spring attached. I had one go bad and it would twist when I engaged the mower. Had a hidden break on one edge. Found the correct belt at a local hardware store. Low cost. New belt quieted the deck and made it run very well. Easier and cheaper than the spindle bearings. From looks of this 520H I would guess PO kept the bearings greased, too. Great Looking Tractor ! Good Luck !