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Eric Friedrichsen

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About Eric Friedrichsen

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/10/1938

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1972 Commando 800,
    1989, 414-8, Modified with 520h front end and reduction gear steering
  • favoritemodel
    Commando 800

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Air_Force
  • Location
    Wilton, CT
  • Occupation
    Retired Airline Pilot

Recent Profile Visitors

1,520 profile views
  1. Bagged out steering bushing hole?

    Yes,, as I remember, it did have two flat spots to keep it from spinning with the shaft. Eric
  2. Bagged out steering bushing hole?

    Hi Mikeeyre74, It is a mounted sleeve bearing. A frictionless bearing is not needed as there is very little motion there. Could you mount it underneath with a steel support plate and only the bolt heads would project through on the top. The cover tube over the shaft (on the exterior I made from an old backpack blower tube. You could make one to cover the bearing or bolt heads. Good luck, Eric
  3. Bagged out steering bushing hole?

    A couple of years ago I restored a much abused 414/8 that had a similar problem (among many). I used a mounted sleeve bearing from McMaster Carr that I modified to accept an angled zerk and now it is part of my routine servicing. The inst. panel on the 400 series tractor is different then yours but yours looks easier to make this modification. I then fastened the steering shaft lock under the bearing. The result is a smooth shaft with no play in that location. See the attached picture. Eric
  4. Lift Assist?

    Dear kto434, Go to the "Implements and Attachments" thread and search under the title "Plow Modification" by Eric Friedrichsen, December 2, 2017. I wrote up a simple modification that has been very successful for me. My hands are arthritic and I have trouble lifting the manual assist for the 48" plow on my 414/8. that has A-Frame extensions because of my swept forward front axle. There are 4 pictures and instructions on the simple modification. I am now using 3 springs and am finding it very helpful. In fact it is so light that on a side to side unevenness the plow on the low side has a tendency to float. If I were you I would try the 3 springs and if it is too light than take one off. You will only be out less than 10 dollars. Eric
  5. Snow Plow Scrapper Blade

    I used a 1/2" x 4" poly edge on a 48" blade that I installed before last season began on my 414/8. I have a 450' asphalt drive with parking area and turn around. I plowed all last winter and 7 times this winter (so far) and the blade edge shows NO perceptible wear (just a little rounding on the outside corners). Before installing the edge I chamfered the the cutting edge with my wood plane so that it mated at the correct angle with the driveway surface. I am very pleased with the poly edge. It doesn't wear and it doesn't scratch. The only negative is that it looks a little klutzy being 1/2" thick. For me that is OK as performance trumps looks. I also use the rubber tire chains modified to 2 link spacing. I have also found them to work well. as they don't scratch the drive. I have found the traction to be a little less than steel chains when pushing up the hill on the drive. The slipping of the rubber chains does not mark the drive and the straps show little evidence of wear. I used to use steel chains and they really marked the drive when slipping. Conclusion: I am very satisfied with the poly blade edge and the rubber tire chains. Eric
  6. Plow Modification

    Success!! I plowed twice during the last snowstorm. The first time was 5" of wet snow and the second time was 1". The modification worked perfectly. Even though the lower bar is only held in position by spring pressure it did not move. The force I have to exert on the up/down handle is about half what it was before the modification, especially in the up motion when the plow is in the down position. Ideally I would like to find a spring with a little more spring rate. The spring I used was a McMaster Carr: 94135K92, Length 8", Ext. Length 13.5", Breakout Pressure 11.62lbs, Rate 6.25 lbs/inch, cost 10.92ea The next spring they have available is: 94135K93, Length 8", Ext. Length 12.73", Breakout Pressure 15.14lbs, Rate 8.36 lbs/inch, cost 12.30ea I would like to find a spring with the following approximate specs. length 8", Ext. Length 13.0", Breakout Pressure 13lbs, rate 7.25 lbs/inch I am a little afraid to use the McMAster Carr k93 spring as it might not give the plow enough down pressure. The K92 spring worked just fine and there was no float of the plow. Somewhere there is a balance point where the plow will not have enough down force. If I find a better spring I'll let you know. Meanwhile the K92 spring works just fine I am just trying to fine tune the application. Eric
  7. Plow Modification

    Oops, I hit the wrong button on the computer and it posted the note before I was finished. Here are the rest of the mods I did: trailer hubs (modified with zerk fittings) and trailer wheels 13 " steering wheel pillow block bearings on upper steering shaft and lower steering shaft forward, zerk fittings added to all bearings, shimmed all steering bushings electric fuel pump rewired entire tractor to eliminate nuisance "safety" switches (I know, I know, I am careful). added amp meter and hour meter changed engines to a Kohler M14T that I modified to have an alternator and high torque starter motor (kept the manual rope starter), Old M14S I'll rebuild for a spare added a brake pedal return stop added electric tail lights and flashing red LED light 2000 lumen LED headlights There is still a little play in the steering but it is much better and lighter than it was. Eric I don't know Ed. I only have experience with an 857 and a commando 800 and they were fine. I think something that can aggravate the steering is the weight of the cast iron M14 and the surface area of the wide front tires. The reduction gear steering + the 13" steering wheel + 25lbs air pressure in the front tires and adjusting the toe in perfectly all makes the steering acceptable.
  8. Plow Modification

    Tankman, About 4 years ago I picked up a much abused 414-8 and restored it to be a working tractor. I found the steering to be excessively stiff and after fooling around with all of the adjustments I still couldn't get the steering effort to be acceptable. On RS I found a very good thread describing changing to the 520HC front end (reduction gear steering and swept forward axles). The thread also described using trailer hubs and wheels. I followed the advice on the thread and found it to be excellent. The only mod I did to the hubs was to drill and tap them for grease fittings. The mods I did to the tractor are: 520HC front end 520HC reduction gear steering
  9. Plow Modification

    The bar is not attached. I just angle it and lever it underneath the frame and it goes very easily. It is held in place solely by spring pressure which also holds it centered. A couple of test runs I did and it seems to work fine. Only a good session working the plow will tell whether or not there are any problems. Eric
  10. 54” wear bar for snow blade Warn

    I have a 1/2" x 4" vinyl wear bar on my 48" plow and using it all of last winter on a 450' asphalt driveway there was no perceptible wear and also no scratching of the driveway. Before i mounted the vinyl edge I planed a chamfer on it with my carpenters wood plane so it would have an edge at the proper angle. I have found it to be much better than a steel edge. Eric
  11. Plow Modification

    Two years ago I modified my 414-8 to reduction gear steering and swept forward front axle. My plow frame had to have frame extensions added to it in order to be able to angle the plow. The plow extensions meant that there was added leverage on my manual lift. As I am now 79 years old and have arthritic hands the added weight was almost impossible to lift the plow. I measured the dead weight of the plow and it was 113.5 lbs for a 48 inch blade. After spending time thinking about it I decided to try to relieve some of the weight with springs. I found on the McMaster Carr website the following corrosion proof extension spring 94135K92. My plow travel measured at around 3" and I wanted the spring to have some pressure to hold the plow in the up position so I determined that I wanted a spring with a total travel of 5". The above spring has a break out pressure of 11.62lbs and a spring rate of 6.25lbs/inch which means that if I could support the spring just under the frame and suspended from the hood hinge pin I would have an up pressure of almost 18lbs and a pressure up of 36.62 lbs when the plow was down and still have one inch of travel remaining tin the spring. I purchased two of the springs (around $20.00 + ship) and installed them simply as shown in the attached pictures. The 1/2" steel rod I had in my stock and it was 14" long so I found that to be just about perfect. With the mounting method shown the only thing retaining the rod is the pressure of the springs. Note that one of the springs has to go between the angle wire and the frame. The mounting is very quick and easy With the plow in the up position place one spring between the angle operating rod and then feed the 1/2" rod through the lower eyes. Cock the rod so that it fits under the frame and then lever the other end under its side of the frame. plumb up and straighten the rod and adjust the springs so that they do not rub and it is ready to go. I measured the amt of weight the springs relieved and it is more than half. Without springs the weight on the blade was 113.5 lbs. With the springs installed the weight was 48.5 lbs. This was much lighter and it gives the side effect of less wear on the plow actuating linkage. I store the tractor with the plow in the up position so there is less static stretch on the springs. I have no idea how this will last or if operationally it will be successful but initially it is promising. I'll let you know after the first snow if it is working ok. Picture 1:Springs hanging loosely from the hood hinge pin. Picture 2:Shows how the 1/2" rod (14 " long) slips through the springs. Picture 3: Shows how the rod is cocked at an angle and levered underneath the frame ( note the position of one of the springs positioned between the angle actuating rod and the frame. Picture 4: Shows the final installation
  12. Mower Spindle Pulley Removal

    I was too quick to write this request. After writing the request I went out to my shop and gave it 3 more hits on the brass drift and what do you know- it broke free and I now have it apart. Thanks anyway. Eric
  13. Mower Spindle Pulley Removal

    I have a 42" SD mower, model# 78345 off of my 414/8 that I have to change the bearings on the center spindle. I am having a difficult time removing the double pulley. After removing the nut and lock washer, soaking the shaft with penetrating oiI, heating the pulley and wailing away with a hammer and a brass drift, the shaft has not budged. I have checked for previous threads on the RS site but none seem to address this problem (that I have found). Does anyone have some ideas? Thanks. Eric
  14. And now...the Back Stories

    Retired Wrencher, Here is the last picture I have of the 857 at Olivebridge, NY taken in the late 1970's. The boy driving is my oldest son Ken. He is the little blond guy sitting in the trailer in the first picture. His younger brother Garrett is sitting in the front of the trailer with no shirt and a big smile. The others are neighbor children. You might notice that the 857 has a different hood. A few years before this picture was taken my father-in-law parked the tractor in the back of his property where he was working. This was on a hill. and evidently the tractor was not in gear nor was the parking brake set because the tractor started rolling down the hill. It stopped when it crashed into the corner of the pump house resulting in damage to the house and a bent hood and air cleaner. He repaired the pump house and put on a new air cleaner and hood. That is how the tractor is operating today. Eric
  15. And now...the Back Stories

    Close, It is Ashoken Reservoir near the village of Olivebridge.
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