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About Furious

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Wheel Horse Information

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  • Military Member
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    Tacoma, WA

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  1. 42" SD Deck Questions

    Yes, I agree, the deck is weak on the discharge side. I bolted the c channel in, next step will be to weld in a reinforcing bar. Seen some pictures so it should be fairly easy. I also purchased some reinforcement plates for where the spindles mount. I'll make sure everything is square and level then weld them in. The shell should be bulletproof then.
  2. 42" SD Deck Questions

    Update. I got the deck mostly level. I think there are several issues at once here. First, I think the deck is sprung on the discharge side or at least what I think "sprung" means anyway. I took some pipe clamps and pulled the sides in until the top of the deck was level across the width then bolted 1/4" c-channel to the top to hold it in place (my welder died a few months ago). I think that took care of that part. Then it was on to the center pulley which I found was "tilted" forward, probably from over tightening the mule drive belt. I then hammered that back to level. Unfortunately without a welder I can't really reinforce that so I'm expecting it to give way again. Next, I had to shim each blade individually so that when the deck is installed they're all within 1/8-1/4" of each other. Took about 4 hours and multiple installs and removals but the deck mows pretty well now. I'll need to eventually replace my mid mount hooks because they're fairly worn but at least I can mow without creating unsightly strips. Long post but I wanted to update everyone. I'll try to post some pics later.
  3. 42" SD Deck Questions

    Thanks for the reply Ed and I agree, pictures will definitely help. To answer your questions, it is installed properly in the attach-a-matic, however I noticed that the attach-a-matic hooks do have some wear. All the wheels are brand new old stock, 2 new 6" adjustment wheels, 3 anti-scalp on the front and 2 on the back. I will be bringing it into my garage this afternoon and checking level and distances as I've seen suggested on other threads. I'll let you know what I discover. One question I do have is that when I installed the blades, I noticed that they are actually "lower" than the deck shell. That is, if I were to set the deck on the ground without the anti-scalp wheels, the deck would rest on the spindle shafts vice the shell...if that makes sense. It's not a lot, maybe 1/4" below the shell.
  4. I have a '68 Electro 12 and recently purchased a good used '90s 42" deck model 15-42SC01. The deck is in great shape, new blades, bearings, all new wheels, no rust. I installed it on the Electro 12 yesterday per the Wheel Horse manual and tried a test cut. Deck runs fine but cuts uneven side to side. It's not leaving a strip, just cutting lower. I haven't been able to determine what side is lower yet, I'll get to that tonight. Any ideas on how what I can do to get an even cut? I can post some pictures later tonight and I'll have a better idea of what side is cutting uneven after I hit a strip in the front yard.
  5. 42" mower deck spindles

    I have a 1969 Electro 12 with a 42" deck that needs new spindles. I have the old, double d style spindles and would like to find the same if possible. The spindle housings are completely shot. If I have to buy newer style spindles, I'll need the pulleys that go along with them. Thanks.
  6. '68 Electro 12

    Here's a more up to date pic of the Electro 12.
  7. 1277 Parts

    I have a 1967 1277 that I'm parting out. Hood, seat pan in good shape, no dents, some surface rust. I'll upload photos soon. Also have the hydro transaxle assembly. No idea how much shipping would be, but if you're interested, I can inquire. $30.00 ea for the hood and seat pan. Make an offer on the hydro. I have lots of other parts from the tractor, let me know what you're looking for and I'll see if I have it. In the military and moving in the springtime, so anything not gone is going to have to go to the dump.
  8. '68 Electro 12

    Yeah, exactly. Know anywhere I can get one? Or enough parts that I can build one? Looks like I'd only really need the blower and I could modify another brand to fit. I have a John Deere L111 that I could scavenge parts from. Gotta get some newer pictures of the tractor. I did a little restoration, painting, mechanical, etc. runs like a top now.
  9. '68 Electro 12

    Hi all. It's been a while since I posted. Got the old Electro 12 running like a top. I have a plow, tiller, and 42" SD deck. Does anyone know if there are any bagger systems that will work with this tractor/deck or if one can be adapted or built from scratch?
  10. K301 Drive Pulley

    I have a 68 Electro 12 with a Kohler K301. The Drive pulley is cracked and I'm trying to find a replacement. It's cast iron, 5.25" diameter with a 1 1/8" bore for a 5/8" vbelt.
  11. Electro 12

    Looking for a 10 amp stator for my 1969 electro 12 charging system, or a used flywheel compatible with the K301 that uses a 15 amp alternator. The flywheel on my K301 is for the 10 amp system that is no longer available and a 15 amp stator is too big. Thanks
  12. '68 Electro 12

    Yeah, forgot to mention that. Took the flywheel off when I got it home and found out the alternator was melted. Maybe it had something to do with the screwy wiring. Any ideas?
  13. '68 Electro 12

    Well, I used the simple wiring diagram provided by 953 Nut (thank you) and she fired right up. The engine runs really well. A little puff of white smoke when I first started it, but nothing after. Now the next question is what do I do about the charging system?
  14. '68 Electro 12

    Here's a picture of the "Indak" switch which was the main ignition switch. The second picture is of the voltage regulator. The question I have I whether I can use this switch with an external coil, battery points ignition. If so, how do I wire it? If not, what type of switch should I get? The tractor has a bendix type starter with a sticker that clearly reads NEGATIVE ground alternator charging system. How they ever wired it for positive ground is beyond me.
  15. '68 Electro 12

    Ok, so I got the tractor home. Hard to take pictures of the wiring since it's so bad. I did a little exploring and determined that it used to be a magneto ignition using a starter like the late production models. It now has an external coil and points, but, it's wired for positive ground. One switch(original ignition switch) has 5 terminals. The other switch that the guys said controls the coil has 3. Any ideas on how I should move forward? Thanks