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mikekot3

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About mikekot3

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    416-8

Profile Information

  • Location
    amherst ma

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  1. I did disconnect the ignition kill wire to the coils but it made no change. I took apart all the connections to the dash area and cleaned them with my terminal brush tools and put dielectric grease on them. The tractor now runs fine. Basically I had a bunch of voltage drops to take care of. I will now figure out which terminal pair I have in the wrong spot in the 9 way molex connetor. I bought an old wiring harness to compare to. What terminals are used at the fuse box so I can replace them them?
  2. Thanks Howie for the feedback. I asked small engine warehouse via email for a better diagram but no response yet. I was worried I would snap off the terminal on the coils as it were very tight. I sprayed some lube on it let it soak in. I will try starting it with out the kill wire off also. I learned that trick on youtube's "Taryl fixes all" . He is funny and I learned a lot from him. Also the correct ignition switch is Toro 103990 about 25 dollars at the dealer for my application.
  3. I have not gotten a reply back from small engine warehouse as of 8/16/2018 evening. I bought two Briggs and Stratton ignition spark testers. When cranking the engine I saw no spark. I took the engine shroud off and tested the ignition coils. With my Fluke 88 dvom I measured the ignition coils at 6.35 K ohms each approximately. The service manual did not show a specification that I could find. I checked the two inline diodes to the coils. I got about .5 volts and OL when I reversed the leads on both diodes. My assumption that this is good thus far. The ignition switch is original to the tractor. It has five terminals on it but only four are used. I cleaned the switch terminals with a wire brush and added some dielectric grease. My thoughts are that I need to check for voltage at each position on the switch key off and then in crank and start. Then do a voltage drop to the starter. There are a bunch of safety interlocks I need to figure out also. Please advise if I made any errors and if I am on the right track or not.
  4. 416 wiring harness

    Thanks for the spare chassis wiring harness for my 416-8 tractor. I am sure I will have it in a few days.
  5. 416 wiring harness

    Hi Richmondred, What year of 416-8 wiring harness do you have? Is the 9 way connector corroded and any other damage? I have an Onan application tractor. Thank you, Mike mkotarba@Hotmail.com
  6. very nice shop 953nut !
  7. Another very nice tractor woo hoo !
  8. Yes I was wondering why the diagram did not show the relays either. There are two I believe on the engine. I will ask them the send me a diagram that show them if they will give it to me. That would really help. Garry
  9. If need be I will get the kit that has the ignition switch on the engine itself if it comes to that.
  10. Yes I asked them about that Lee. They said it would work fine in a 416 tractor. I have a briggs and Stratton spark tester coming on sunday to narrow it down the problem areas.
  11. I will take a look at the switch this weekend. The engine as provided by small engine warehouse has relays mounted to it. Here is a diagram they provided to me for their harness. small engine warehouse wiring diagram D_WH520-Wire-BV.PDF
  12. Wheel Horse 416H

    Hi, Where did you get a replacement wiring harness? Please advise. Mike
  13. My original engine was an onan p216 engine. The new engine is a vanguard v-twin 23 hp. I have purchased the service manual from briggs and stratton directly which is part number 272144. The new engine is model: 386447 03124042 Type is: 3048-G1 Code is : 14122611 The old toro model is : 73420 serial number 5900434. Thank for the advice I have received thus far.
  14. My 416-8 tractor I have repowered with a small engine warehouse Briggs and Stratton 23hp vanguard engine two years ago. This week the tractor ran fine and I cut most of the grass until it rained out. I thought I would finish the lawn the next day but I will not run correctly. The tractor will crank but will not start. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter already to no avail. I removed the spark plug and used starting fluid in the cylinder but It did not help any. When cranking the engine is the clear fuel filter housing supposed to fill up most of the way? It seems to be only filled about 1/4 of the way. I found a bad terminal in the engine to chassis 9 pin molex connector for the starter which I bypassed until I get a terminal remover tool. I bought a new molex connector body and terminals for this type of repair a few years ago. Another weird thing is when it did start and run in the past the switch is turned to start I have to turn on the head light switch for it crank over. Once it started I would turn off the head light switch to disengage the starter. The switch and head light trick has been working for two years. I am presuming I put the wrong terminal in the wrong spot in the 9 way connector 2 years ago but I worked fine other wise for two years. Is there any other trouble spots I need to test on the tractor? I have a fluke dvom for testing purposes if needed. Thank you in advance.
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