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Gadget

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About Gadget

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    520H, 244H
  • favoritemodel
    244-H

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southwest Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

556 profile views
  1. 244 Steering Shaft Removal

    244H steering gear Just in case there was any question that these gears can indeed wear out, here is what the old one looked like! I got lucky, the roll pin came out without any drama and the steering wheel released from the shaft very easily. I am sure there is a correct way to do this but I removed the 4 nuts and bolts that hold the plastic "dashboard" which gave me just enough wiggle room to remove the shaft assembly through the bottom (removed the deck) and feed the new shaft, collar, bushing etc back from the bottom up. Problem solved, steers as it should. Thanks again.
  2. 244 Steering Shaft Removal

    Thanks everyone: Pacer: 1) Looks like the 200 series is a whole different animal than the 606 that is being posted about. From what I understand with the 200 series there is a large washer that has an off center hole (eccentric?), you loosen the bolt holding the fan gear and depending on how you orient the washer (which is under the fan gear) the teeth on the shaft end up nearer or farther from the from the teeth on the fan gear (I am not a know-it-all so if I am mistaken PLEASE correct me) 2) It needs some dental work, the teeth on the shaft gear are worn I would estimate 50% from new so matter how far back I try to locate the eccentric they dont mesh well (lots of slop) I will send a photo when I get it apart 3) I dont have a shop manual for the 200 series but it looks to me (again please correct me) that I have to remove the steering wheel, a c-clip, a collar (with a set screw) and lord knows what else and them pull the old shaft up and out top. Any thoughts on that process??? Thanks TW
  3. Hi, I have searched through the forum and found info or removing steering wheel, and shaft. I could still use a little advice: I tried to get a replacement from all the vendors on this site but no luck so I am going with one on fleabay (looks like OEM) however it says "200 Series" so I have to assume its the correct shaft. When I looked up the part number, I came up with 78-8180 so that's my best guess. I see lots of posts on larger machines but for us little guys... not so much. The gear at the bottom end of the shaft has worn to the point where if skips (teeth worn) so I figured I needed to replace the gear. I now understand that it comes pre pressed onto the shaft. Looks straightforward except for removing the steering wheel from the shaft: Is this a roll pin situation, and if so, with the pin removed (drilled out if I cant get it with a pin punch) can I use a puller to separate the wheel from the shaft (I have seen a download on that but its on a larger tractor) Any other input on what to beware of when changing the shaft would be appreciated. Thanks in advance TW
  4. Electric PTO Clutch 1993 244H

    Still looking!!
  5. Electric PTO Clutch 1993 244H

    Hi all, Looking for an Electric PTO clutch (complete) for my 1993 (I think) 244H. Onan Vertical shaft, E 140 V Call, text, PM or email. 239 699 6173
  6. FWIW Many Marine Supply stores carry non skid in rolls up to 6". You can trim it to the size and shape you want with an old pair of scissors. Just my .02
  7. mower deck

    I don't know what Model deck you are working on but from the two I have had experience with, there isn't anything special about the washers. Local hardware or Big-box store might be able to help. If you know the model number of your deck it might help some of the guys pinpoint what you need. There are manuals posted here for many models so if you know what you have, you can look at the manuals and see the parts exploded view. Good luck!
  8. Custom 2" Heave Duty Hitch

    Changed Status to Closed Thanks everyone, this item has been sold.
  9. I have a Custom 2" Heavy Duty Hitch for sale. Comes with mounting plates and hardware. It is brand new, never got to tow anything with it. I ordered it from one of the vendors on this site. He did a great job of making and shipping it, it was well worth what I paid for it. About the time I got it, I decided (sadly) I needed to part with the 520-H that it was intended for. I hope one of you guys can use it. I hope that the vendor (I don't want to mention his name without his permission) will understand why I am re-selling it this price. I will split the cost of shipping with the buyer, probably around 20 bucks more or less depending on where its going and how you want it shipped. Thanks Todd
  10. Hi! I am looking for the deck attachment hardware show in the photo. I need the whole thing, brackets, nut, bolt, washers and hairpin if you want to part with them. I have a 244-H with a 42" SD deck. I think (because most of the ID tag is gone) ... its a model 78230 3900001 and up. The bracket part #s are (I think) 86-9250 and 86-9240, Bracket W.A. - Lift, Upper and Lower Feel free to PM or email or however you want to contact me. Thanks in advance for the help Todd
  11. 419XT Mower uneven cutting

    http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/63198-48-sd-mower-leveling/ Here's how I finally got mine to cut level at the highest possible point. Hope it helps
  12. This should have most of you experienced guys shaking your heads: The grass in South FL, is St Augustine, due to the way it grows (runners that form thick spongy mats) you have to set the deck height VERY high. With my 520, when you raise the deck to its higher range, it gets slightly out of level side to side. I checked and rechecked for anything bent or damaged. When you lower the deck, it comes back into level but unfortunately, in my case, that makes the cut heights to low, and you scalp the grass. I need the blades to be almost 5" from the floor to compensate for the weight of the tractor (and my big a##) sinking down in the mat of St Augustine. You can get the front and back adjustment level (Toro says 1/8 or so higher in the rear) with the stock guide-wheels at normal mowing height but there is no side to side adjustment so........ added larger guide-wheels welded a clevis to the footrests and the deck on eigther side, and found some turnbuckles that allow for plenty of easy adjustment, and can be removed easily (one pin) when you need to service the deck. Works like a charm and only about $10.00 worth of materials I just thought I would post this up in case anyone needed to mow at the highest available limit of the deck with a 520
  13. ONAN CLEANING EXPERT'S NEEDED

    You might wanna make some notes about how the throttle linkages are BEFORE you take it all apart. I had to remove the forward one (where the cable clamps) and the spring to the governor. I didn't have to take the oil filter off. Once you get everything loose, the cover kind of lift up slightly out, then down and to the rear. Reinstall in reverse order. On mine, some of the bolts holding the "tin" on were longer than the others, so you might want to make notes about which ones came out of which hole. After going thru all the effort of doing what you are doing, I found everything very clean. BUT it was a GREAT learning experience. For me anyway, being new to these machines, nothing makes me learn faster than taking something apart and putting it back together. At least now I know, as will you, that everything is clean and air is flowing as it should. I learned (I think) that the air flows from left to right, very basic for the more experienced guys here but not for me. I know that there are many posts about venting the covers and they make sense, but I am starting to think that when you vent the covers, you are making an exhaust port, I had thought they were intakes. Like I said, No way to learn other than breaking out the wrenches. Good luck
  14. This is a question in two parts Part 1: What is the recommended RPM for operation of the Onan 220? I know that sounds obvious, to many of you but not to me, and I know it depends upon what attachment you are using and what the load is. Here's where I'm at: Throttle all the way up, I max out at about 3200, then it creeps back to around 3000. almost all I do is mow with th 48" deck, Seems that a higher RPM will give a cleaner cut, when I really push the throttle up, and hold it in position I can get it to about 3500 but I have to keep my hand on it or it will creep back. I fiddled a little with the linkage and then I stopped thinking that the governor needed to be properly set. Part 2: I am not lazy, I did a search on this and couldn't get the answer, If it is already posted somewhere, just say so. One of the things I like about you guys is that you don't pounce on us for asking questions that may have been answered somewhere else already. I belong to an auto motive form and those guys are ruthless, you are not. Back to the question. I can find and have downloaded just about every manual I can find that applies to this machine and I cannot a "Repair" manual for the tractor. I can find service manuals but nothing that is step by step repair like a shop manual would. I am missing something? Part 3: Lacking anything else, can someone at least tell me if I need to make adjustments to the governor and if so tell me how I can find out how to do it? I thought I had CLEANED and degunked everything until I started reading more closely the posts and photos about chaff building up behind the flywheel and blocking airflow to the rear cylinder. Even though I could do a visual with a flashlight and it looked clean, I though I better check anyway. I took the "tin" off and everything was surprisingly clean so I decided not to push my luck and bolted it back together. At least now I know its moving air as it should. Thanks for the info on that. I have attacked a picture or two of that process and a (not so good) view of the throttle governor linkages. Thanks!
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