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About giddyap

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/11/1950

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors

    551 Suburban
    551 project

  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Solon, Ohio
  • Occupation
    Retired from Delphi Packard Electric, Warren Ohio
  • Interests
    landscaping, Lionel trains, garden tractors

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  1. Aha, I suspected tracking was messed up.Thanks Wallfish. I found this by Half-breeder, DIY Go Karts, July 2013 for complete article http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=23785 "If" there is room the typical way to improve Ackerman is reverse the spindles to a rearward facing position, and the 'geometry' is corrected('if' mounting holes line up w/ Ackerman angle 'line' on the spindles)... Example of Ackerman w/ 'trailing' arms.Another way to correct Ackerman(for forward facing spindles) is 'extending' the tierod connection point, on the spindle arm, 'past' the kingpin and 'outward', towards the wheels to lineup w/ the 'line' to create Ackerman...This procedure is not widely used/done, due to clearance issues...(the one on the 'right').. .A 3rd way, which I did, because of clearance issues w/ wheels vs spindles, was take the distance that you would use for the above(2nd) example tie-rods, but move them inward instead of out, crossing them over/past the pitman arm... by using a pitman arm 'plate' to separate the 2 arm connections from each other, and create the necessary movement needed for proper Ackerman...
  2. Update. I have most everything roughed in. I decided the rake was too drastic to just bolt the engine on the frame.so I made a plate to level the engine. 2 bearing flanges sit nearly under the tower for the jack shaft so that took some time making it fit. Those pulleys will sit safely under the foot rest. With the jackshaft lower than a 551 Suburban engine pulley,.I'm hoping everything works as it should Wife thinks it won't be long before I complete it and then what will I have to keep busy? Well after the bugs are all out, I will most likely paint it.
  3. I can almost double the ground clearance doing the same and moving the arm to the top. More complex because the spindle is curved. My 2 rough cut pieces will come in handy when I goof up the original
  4. The second roll pin went in the first without giving me grief. A do-over may prove different so I'll let sleeping dogs lie. I'll see how the washer wears and hopefully change it in time to prevent a disaster. I may relocate the drag link arm to the top of the flipped axle. Either way, this side needs beefing up, too. The cut face has a slight dome surface to prevent hanging up.
  5. First and foremost, I HAVE A HANDLE. My preserved Wheel Horse is my avatar so please don't despair that this post is about my chopping and hacking. My photo shows there was less to work with than originally thought. I could only add a flat washer and may add another roll pin inside the one in place. Already I feel a whole lot better since the spindle fell off while pushing her around the garage
  6. Yikes, you are describing the other side of my axle w/o the washers as I bought it. I may have to buy fabricated spindles so the stress is distributed to the top and bottom.
  7. Some of my working years when Packard Electric was a division of GM, I was a glorfied inspector
  8. I will make the cut as 953 nut demostrates. I must mention the obvious. after the spindle is removed. Thrust washers much better than wheel bearing I was thinking about. If you guys are engineers post those degrees
  9. This newbie is astonished that a senior member also didn't know the name of that thing I described. But then again I have been known to not have a sense of humor. LOL
  10. Oops, Sorry Wallfiish for giving credit to another for the spindle fix. I also thought about lock-tite or cutting off the axle protrusion which would expose the spindle rod. Smooth the two cut surfaces and pin them back together. Good to know the jackshaft is viable, so I ordered the parts.
  11. Yesterday I saw how I might be able to mount the engine directly on the frame. Doing so would keep the gas tank inside the hood and the block centered with the frame. This creates the problem where the drive pulley is now way out of line but my hot rod will look much better than having the engine way offset.To get the belt back inline I'm going to add a set of ball bearing flanges between the engine and transaxle, 3/4" keyed shaft and two drive pulleys on the shaft. two belts instead of one. Don't know what its called and if it doesn't work I go back to plan A. thebigbearingstore.com surpluscenter.com 953nut thanks for the fix. Pushing her around the garage the spindle fell off.
  12. ebinmaine, indeed it is trial and different trial. My biggest fault is overkill, too much thought makes something too complex. KISS is always the goal and it is fun getting there
  13. Wallfish, another thank-you for the additional info. Being this is my first custom I'm learning by trial and error. In doing so, I failed to realize my ideas may not be sound and appreciate your oversight. I will not be surprised if it falls apart. BTW my project is just something I have to do and for no special reason other than wasting time and money.
  14. Quick release wheelie bars made from 1960s Cub mower deck carrier - bars rest under axle, frozen slot hitch stops the bars Ross steering column and foot rests from 102 Cub Cadet Wallfish, thanks for info. If I go 4" drive pulley I will have 1:1 Is that OK?
  15. This is my first born custom and is still under construction. Only one of the hoods, gutted frame, seat tray and seat are from my recently acquired 551 Suburban. A newer 3 speed transaxle and belt guard will round out the remaining Wheel Horse parts. The front axle is flipped and moved forward 6 inches. Its origin along with the tie rods and steering column comes from a 102 Cub Cadet. Taking 2 steps back for every advance is part of the fun. But now I'm at a loss and overwhelmed at all the V drive pulleys available at Phoenix pulleys. Can anyone suggest what pulley I should use with the 13 hp Predator? Thanks in advance