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About mikeeyre74

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/04/1974

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1977 C120 8 speed (worker), 1976 C120 Automatic (disassembled project/restoration tractor), 1976 C-120 8-speed (Just arrived, on deck for repair 10/2017), 1963 Model 753, 1998 522xi (worker), 1962 Model 552 (on deck for repair), 1994 520H (worker), various carcasses strewn about the yard..
  • favoritemodel
    C-120 Auto or 520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    Barkhamsted / CT
  • Occupation
    Social Worker
  • Interests
    Beer, Tractors, Chickens, Jiu Jitsu

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. ID? Or is it home made? Curious parts...

    I could go take more pics of particular stuff if anyone was dying to know more about it. I just thought it was hysterical..
  2. Saw this in town this morning. What a curious thing! Mike
  3. I have a 1976-77 c120 auto that doesn’t have hydraulic lift. Sundstrand transmission. I also have a c125 parts tractor that has an Eaton tranny that was equipped with a hydro lift and all the associated parts. The c120 just got all rebuilt, so it’s in much better shape than the 125, which is beaten. My question is: can I use the hydraulic ram and valve for the hand control from the 125 on the 120? I know I’m going to need something swapped out in the sunstrand transmission to make the hydraulics plug in to/work, but is this idea feasible? I originally picked up the 125 as a parts tractor because of the Eaton transmission that it had, in case I couldn’t get the Sundstrand back together again, but I think I have it put together well enough now to get the job done, but I do like the hydraulic option. I’ll swap it over if I have to, but.... thoughts?
  4. 520h no charge question

    The 9 pin was removed by the PO and it was all shucked in favor of bullet connectors and shrink wrap. I've got batt voltage at the fuse on both sides..so that should be good?
  5. 520h no charge question

    My 520 isn’t charging. I have 12.6 V at the battery, and I have checked all the fuses and cleaned terminals. I suspect it is the voltage regulator. I’m getting 2.9 V at the B plus terminal at idle, and up to about 7 V at full throttle. My question is, when the engine is off with the key switch on, shouldn’t I get battery voltage to the B+ terminal? Right now, I get nothing until it’s running.
  6. Why does my 520 keep catching fire?

    In the meantime, while I try and source another one of these boards for the LED's, if I just unplug the board, will that be sufficient to keep things running without fires? These boards aren't all that cheap and I'm not sureI'm gonna be able to finding, even.. To answer your question, yes, the harness was modified. The P.O. had the Molex connector removed after it melted down and everything was soldered directly, without connectors. It appears to be well done, with heat shrink tubing on all wires. They did not bother to install the lights in the dashboard though, and none of them work or are even installed in the sockets. A couple of the gauges were missing as well.
  7. Why does my 520 keep catching fire?

    When the original board burned out, I took the dashboard apart and cleaned all the contacts. I also replaced the battery and cleaned the main cables all up as well. What else am I missing?
  8. Why does my 520 keep catching fire?

    This literally just happened, and I have to hit the sack now for work tomorrow so I will inspect this later, but the first one just melted down one of the LED lights on the right-hand side of the board, And that killed it. This one did pretty much exactly the same thing, with the engine temperature light starting to flicker just as I saw smoke starting to come out of it.
  9. second time now. That damned circuit board keeps going up in smoke. That was my last spare board... is there any reason why I “need“ any of that crap in the LED circuit board?
  10. Old snow blower wear scraper bar

    Mmmmm. Newer tall chute. Copy that.
  11. Old snow blower wear scraper bar

    Where does this piece even go? My single stage doesn’t have one… Is this something I can retrofit?
  12. 520H engine blew out valve seat

    Find another engine shop. He's probably using a Serdi machine that has to have the head (in this case the whole block, chichis the problem) bolted into the fixture.. but most reputable places should have hand held equipment that can grind those seats. It's not really a big deal, unless you're stuck using certain pieces of equipment, like that guy ^^^.
  13. What is it????

    That’s definitely a Power King Economy economy tractor. I had a 1960 Model that was manual lift, where is that one has hydraulic lift. That’s much nicer than the one I had. Their cool for pulling things around, but they are really rudimentary it when it comes to hooking up attachments to them. That’s why I ditched mine and went to wheel Horse… Simply the fact that they’re so crude made working with them around any place that wasn’t a farm more of a chore than any fun at all.
  14. Fixing my c120 auto

    I used to work in an engine rebuilding shop. We used to do single cylinder kohlers all the time. If you do your own assembly, which is not difficult at all, you could knock about $900 off the price of that rebuild. We’re going back about 17 years or so here, but we used to get Pistons and rods for customers, and if their crank was OK and in specification, we would oversize the block and hand all the clean parts back to the customer and send them out the door for a few hundred dollars. It’s only one cylinder and it only takes 15 minutes or so to get that job done. The hot tank take care of the cleaning, and putting new faces on two valves and two seats was just a couple of minutes of work. If I were you, I would definitely call a reputable shop and ask them about their machining services and attempt the reassembly yourself. There really isn’t much to these things once you start taking them apart and spreading them out on a bench in a logical order.
  15. Fixing my c120 auto

    Don’t be so quick to sell yourself short. Take off the sheet-metal and then take a good long look at that motor in there and you’ll find that it isn’t really all that complicated. Just get the engine out and bring it to a reputable engine shop and tell them to “fix this”. When they are done, you can put it back in the tractor just as it was and carry-on for another 20 years.