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mikeeyre74

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About mikeeyre74

  • Rank
    Puppy
  • Birthday 10/04/1974

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1977 C120 8 speed (worker), 1976 C120 Automatic (disassembled project/restoration tractor), 1976 C-120 8-speed (Just arrived, on deck for repair 10/2017), 1963 Model 753, 1998 522xi (worker), 1962 Model 552 (on deck for repair), 1994 520H (worker), various carcasses strewn about the yard..
  • favoritemodel
    C-120 Auto or 520H

Profile Information

  • Location
    Barkhamsted / CT
  • Occupation
    Social Worker
  • Interests
    Beer, Tractors, Chickens, Jiu Jitsu

Recent Profile Visitors

1,267 profile views
  1. This looks wheel horse-ish, but it's not like the one I already have, but I can't figure out who makes it otherwise. Ideas? The grader blade, of course. Mike..
  2. Small hose on Air cleaner base of Onan 20hp?

    Disregard me! I narrowed my search terms down and figured out for myself that it belongs to the air filter cleaner sensor.
  3. I was trying to find a picture of it in the schematics for partstree or similar, but I just can't seem to. It's a very small hose that attaches to a nipple on the base of the air cleaner base and feeds up inside the air cleaner element. The house was routed down through the engine compartment somewhere and then out the bottom.. I don't think the end of that hose was hooked anywhere.. can someone tell me what this thing was and what it did?
  4. Is this thing bent? 48" deck issue..

    Thats a good point. I wouldn’t have thought of that... thanks guys! ”flip the lift rod”? When I get the thing unbent, it won’t line up anymore you mean... but should be visible by eye which lines up the best, right?
  5. This bar here appears to be bent, to me… Is it? Or is it supposed to be that way? It’s the one hooked to the trunnion at the bottom of the photo that adjusts the front to back tilt of the deck. I can’t find a good example of it online to compare it to another one… So either it’s bent, or it’s not, but I can’t figure out how are you would bend something like this that way? So it’s got me wondering…
  6. I answered my own question. For anyone following this thread, read this:
  7. And here it is, proven to work now. Wells #PS-122 http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_oil.php that NLA Toro oil pressure switch for the Onan engine? Or the Onan part that’s $159.00? Scratch that. This piece here ^^^ I bought at my local O’Riellys for $5.73. Yes, it’s a three terminal switch, not two like the factor, but... it works. Terminals 1 and 3 are tied together and work when oil pressure is applied. They disconnect when there is no pressure. Terminal 2 grounds when there is no pressure and disconnects when there is pressure. You have to wire a new ground wire from either terminal 1 or 3 and find a suitable ground for that, and then connect the black wire from the - of your hour meter to the either terminal 1 or 3, whichever you didn’t already use. Terminal 2 gets connected to your idiot light for the “no pressure” indicator. I can tell you that it all works as it should. Idiot light works and goes off when running and now my hour meter functions too. Very happy!
  8. No, that's correct. that "square hole" you see is one side of the shifter slot. There's another one on the opposite side of that, so if you push forward and move side to side there's those gears or pull back and move side to side theres those gears to choose from as well. You just need to line them both up together so they're "in the midle and then drop that lever down in between them, then set your screw. If you get everything out of the way, by removing the seat and fender, you can look down inside the hole easy enough and see what I mean.
  9. 77 Wheel Horse B80

    A little steep for my neck of the woods, but they're durable machines and run forever. Cracks in the frame to transmission plate if it has a plow on it would be my most concerning point.. it's fixable, but things have to come apart to do the repair.
  10. I think it's called a "dog point" screw, and it's just a setscrew with a point on the end and a locknut on the other (outside portion) to hold the position when it's set right. Just push the shifter back in after lining things up in there and tighten down the dogpoint screw with an allen wrench until it bottoms. Back it out just a hair and then tighten down the locknut so it holds position.
  11. After a little research, it looks like this PS122 switch from Wells would work, yes? It has three terminals on it, but looks like it's a NC/NO action like the two position original equipment, but the third terminal works in mirror to the 1st teminal. If I ignore that extra terminal, it will function as I need it to. And at $6, it's not a bad deal! http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_oil.php Can anyone confirm? Its NC at 0psi, and opens at 2.5 to 12 psi on the other terminal, according to their site that linked above. Mike
  12. What years would that be on so I can get a pressure switch like that, then? Or, better yet, if you have the part number in your head that's fine too...
  13. A 520H oil light question with a twist!

    Any updates on this oil pressure switch, IndianaJohn? I'm struggling with this myself right now...
  14. So then... if the original part isn't available anymore, but you can still get the one terminal ones, if I installed that (connection made at 5psi style), I could line that back up with my hourmeter and make that circuit run again... but my idiot light for the low pressure would be DOA. That's the magic of the two circuit switch, correct? OR: Does it make more sense to wire the hour meter up with its own ground off of the oil pressure circuit (have to go with Key ON action and try and remember not to just leave it on..) and use a different oil pressure switch which would be mormally CLOSED at 0psi and open at pressure above that and have that wired in with the idiot light? That would be safer I guess?
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