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About Section8

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    South Carolina
  1. :thumbs2: Excellent! What a difference. It looks brand new! (I like it better all red like that, too.)
  2. OK, so i tried to incorporate all the gauges and instruments suggested by folks in this thread, and it pains me to report that doing so would require an instrument panel 12" tall and 34" wide, not to mention an extremely stable DC source for the flux capacitor and blood pressure monitor, so I will have to stick to just the 6 gauges as originally planned. (Besides, the GPS would have to be mounted on the hood, which would partially obstruct the flat screen TV.) You guys are too funny. As for the bumper suggestion, strangely enough, I am developing a brush-guard/bumper contraption that will tilt forward with the hood, which is turning out to be a little more complicated than I thought it would be -- somewhere in the neighborhood of Level 1 cussing (the oil pressure gauge project was Level 2). As of today, I've added three gauges: Temperature, Fuel Level, and of course the infamous Oil Pressure gauge, all working and inumalate... lit up. The fuel sender in the tank I used from a 518H took some tweaking to get a stable reading on the gauge, but all is well now. Those three gauges are presently mounted with Anti-Vibration Mounting Tube Technology (radiator hoses) until I get thru mutilating an instrument panel into accommodating them all. (The factory voltmeter and hourmeter are still in the original instrument panel). I promise I will get a camera this week and post some badly exposed pics of the current mess, I mean, configuration, along with the extension ramps I said I was going to build for the pickup and then forgot to mention that I finished them 2 weeks ago and that they've been working great all this time. Also, they are red. Which is the main thing.
  3. Well I am at it again. Some of you might recall a previous "adventure" where for some reason I added an oil pressure gauge to my 416-8 using a radiator hose (I mean, "Anti-vibration Gauge Mounting Tube") as the mount for the gauge. If you were fortunate enough to miss that thread, here's the link to it: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...indpost&p=83090 Anyway, I'm sorry to report that I still don't have pics of the project (still don't have a camera), but I will get one and take some and post some. In the meantime, I am already contemplating (by which I mean, I am half finished) adding more gauges to this unsuspecting 416-8, and abandoning radiator-hose gauge-mounting technology for something more traditional: the instrument panel. So, unless someone talks some sense into me, this is my sinister plan, in crudely photoshop'd pictures: PRE-OP: POST-OP: I will be using an "extra" 416 instrument panel for this project, that way I can return everything to original using the original panel if I screw everything up (my can opener ain't all that sharp). Also, with the exception of the tachometer, I already have the gauges, including a fuel gauge and tank with sending unit from an old 518H. All gauges but the hour meter will be lit. litted. inumilated. have bulbs in 'em. So, have I lost my mind? Or am I just a gauge-aholic? Comments, advice and psychiatric referrals welcomed.
  4. When did Toro take over

    My local Toro dealer told me he can still get a wheel horse from Toro, like a special order. Basically, you place the order and pay for it and Toro will build you one. I didn't think to ask which model -- I assume a 300 series -- but he did use the word "expensive." Like I said, I didn't ask which model or other details since I am not in the market for a new one, but I thought it was interesting that he said you could still get a Wheel Horse from Toro.
  5. My new toy/tractor

    Very nice looking horse. Now I know what mine will look like when I repaint it next fall. Sharp. Clutch Pedal: assuming your '97 is like my '91, and if you mean that the pedal does not always engage the clutch when you release it (and is prone to "wheelies" when it does engage), the problem is the expensive little strut (gas charged spring, $65) on the idler pulley arm.
  6. 312-8 clutch adjustment...

    And also too a new "gas charged spring," as Toro calls it, costs $65 from the dealer (no, I'm not kidding). I replaced mine a coupla weeks ago, not so much to stop the wheelies but to preserve the front sheet metal on the hood, and to a lesser degree, the back of my p/u truck.
  7. C-120 is finally alive!

    Great looking horse there. All your work really paid off. I wish there were more WH's down here in South Carolina so I could find some like yours for restoration and such. Well, on the one hand I wish there were more around here; on the other hand (the one with the money in it), maybe it's best that there aren't, he-he.
  8. New Hub Caps

    Wow. That does look sharp. Can you still buy those thru Toro, or is it an Ebay kinda thing?
  9. Adding an oil pressure gauge on 416-8

    Right up front, I want to say I agree with TINY390's point about the benefits of fat-chick aftershocks on the dance floor, and I -- oh, sorry, wrong forum. Seriously, thank you for all the warm welcomes and especially for all the kind responses to what is obviously a precarious situation: me on a mission, armed with tools. I forgot to mention that this project started because the "Engine Oil" light was blinking sometimes, and troubleshooting the problem required a gauge. The new oil pressure gauge is working great, sitting there in its custom anti-vibration mounting tube, and since the engine does have good oil pressure, the problem is the pressure switch which needs adjustment -- the screwdriver-turning kind, not the hammer-whacking kind. A side benefit is that I can now sleep better, free of recurring blinking-light dreams. As, requested, I will post some photos here (the project, not me sleeping) as soon as l can round up a suitable camera. Regarding some of your questions/comments... fan: That is funny about having to stop and clean the coffee off the computer and yourself. Laughter is the spice of life. Or nutmeg, I can't remember. (I know what that coffee splatter situation is like first hand; I, too, have a drinking problem.) Duff: Thank you, but no, I was not a comedy writer in my other life. In fact, in my other life, I was one of the old guys yelling derogatory remarks from the balcony on The Muppet Show. HorseFixer: I have never actually gotten an "official" military Section 8. The guy at the base said I would first have to join "a branch of the military, but please not this one for Christ's sake" and then go nuts, and then something about "stop coming by here every week bothering us, sir" (which I thought was very respectful with the "sir" and all. I should mention that to them next week). Lord Helmutt: Thanks and I will post pics as soon as possible (read, "find camera"). 04fxdwgi: Using a higher quality (less tearupable?) oil feed line, as you suggested, is a very good idea. On mine, I'm covering the small, easily-damaged line (supplied with the gauge) with that flexible plastic sleeve stuff and hope that is protection enough. That's because I already have some flexible plastic sleeve stuff. Regarding our similar "exploits," I reckon it's possible that you must have known me at one point. Ever been hollered at from a balcony? BTW, I'm now moving on to the next project (sometimes, upon hearing me say that, the neighbors start sandbagging their homes). The next project is to weld up some sort of removable support ramps/platforms for my truck's hydraulic lift gate, so that it can lift this 416-8 Horsie into the truck (flatbed). I used to run my old AYP/Disposable lawn tractor into (and offto) the truck with ease, but being a 740 pound mastodon, the Wheel Horse tries slide off on the way up. If I can figure out which thread to post in, and without objection your honor, I will also post this project, in detail, including medical bills. Again, thanks to all for the comments and warm welcome.
  10. Adding an oil pressure gauge on 416-8

    OK, so I got my oil pressure gauge installation project done. did. done did. I feel better not having to depend on just the idiot light. Oil pressure reads around 7-8 psi at idle and 16-17 at speed. It turned out pretty nice, too, with the added benefit of being fairly easy to do on the 16HP onan engine, by which I mean, fairly easy if you are not me. That said, if you are considering adding an oil pressure gauge to your beloved onan, here's how to do it, step by step: 1. Unbolt Engine Shroud. The big one with the sideways Weber grill in it. There are 5 or 6 bolts holding it on. There will only be 3 or 4 for some reason when you go to put it back together. After yanking the shroud around for a while it will slide free from the engine shortly after you discover and remove the top-secret hidden bolts under the air cleaner (around the ignition coil-thing that sparks a lot when you bump the terminals against nearby metal). Once those bolts are removed, yank on the shroud some more and it will slide off the moment after you detach the way-too-short hose that goes through the shroud to the back side of the fuel pump, and also too, unhook the left end of the big spring near the end of the throttle cable under the air cleaner. You can yank on the shroud some more if you like between these last two steps. I did. 2. Place the Shroud on the Floor Out of Your Way. (You can't throw it across the shop, the throttle cable is too short.) 3. Remove the Oil Pressure Switch. The wrenching area on the pressure switch is accessible with light to moderate cussing. It is brass and threaded into a 45-degree elbow that is threaded into the oil filter adapter plate. You need a 9/16 wrench to keep the elbow from turning while you unscrew the switch with a 7/16 wrench. NOTE: DO NOT "round off" the tiny little soft brass flats on the switch with the 7/16 or you will have to remove the entire oil filter adapter plate from the engine so you can put it in a vise and use locking pliers on the rounded off flats to remove the switch. (The oil filter adapter plate bolts are hard to get to.) 4. Remove the Entire Oil Filter Adapter Plate From the Engine so You Can Put it in a Vise and Use Locking Pliers on the Rounded-Off Flats to Remove the Pressure Switch. Be careful when handling the adapter plate so you don't get dirt inside it or drop it on the floor again. 5. Install a Brass Tee Put a threaded brass nipple in the hole the switch was in (everything is 1/4" pipe thread here), and then a brass "Tee" on the nipple, and then, using aforementioned locking pliers, install the pressure switch in one of the two remaining tee-holes. 6. Clean Out the Dirt That Got in it Anyway, and Reinstall the Oil Filter Adapter Plate on the Engine. 7. Install the Oil Pressure Gauge Line/Fitting in the One Remaining Tee-Hole (the fitting/line that came with your new oil pressure gauge) 8. Route the Oil Line Through Stuff and To Your New Gauge I ran mine thru the cutout in the shroud where the oil filter sticks out; then under the battery shelf; then through the little gap between the upper and lower dash panels. 9. Reinstall the Big Shroud/Attachments and All the Shroud Bolts You Can Account For. It goes back on a somewhat easier than taking it off (a little less yanking). Regarding where/how to mount the gauge, I couldn't bring myself to cut a big ol' unauthorized gauge hole in one of the dash panels (besides, those panels have a pretty steep angle as far as gauge viewing goes), so here is what I did instead: Using all my mechanicaling skills, I dug around the shop and yard until I found an old radiator hose that I could mash the gauge into. Stop laughing, I'm serious. Anyway, I removed the hose I found from my friends car, cut the length of it to slightly less than the length of the plastic tube that hides the tractor's steering wheel's column (this is a 416-8 tractor), ran the gauge oil line thru the radiator hose, hooked the line to the gauge, mashed the gauge into the end of the hose (nice fit, and yes,face up) and strapped it to the steering column cover with black plastic zip-ties. Believe it or not, it actually looks pretty good and is aimed right at your face for easy viewing, plus the gauge's oil line is completely hidden by the radiator hose, hereafter referred to as the "anti-vibration gauge mounting tube." BTW, I was kidding about removing the radiator ho-- er, anti-vibration gauge mounting tube from a friend's car. He's more like an acquaintance.
  11. 8 speed stuck in hi range

    Thanks, oldandred. I was kinda hoping it would be something that might work itself out over time, by which I mean, hoping I wouldn't have to tear down the tranny. Yes, I rode big red around a 2 acre lot for an hour or more between flushes... slow, fast, forward, reverse, neighbors wondering if I was drunk or just needed a how-to video on lawn mowing (the deck was all the way up and disengaged). Thank you for your reply. Hope your tranny gets well soon also.
  12. the 8-speed tranny is stuck in HI range. The HI/LO shifter arm will hardly move (maybe a half inch left and right). It was stuck when I bought the tractor (416-8, '91 model). I did find water in the tranny, not so unusual from what I read in other posts here, and I think I have flushed it all out (kerosene +oil twice then sea foam + oil twice). I no longer see evidence of water on the dipstick or from the drain plug hole. Every\hing else with the tranny "seems" to be fine... forward/reverse shifting smoothly, no funny noises, etc., so I am hoping it is just a simple roll pin or something or that I am just not kicking the tires in the right spot Any help greatly appreciated.
  13. Adding an oil pressure gauge on 416-8

    Thanks, Duff. I'm glad I stumbled across this forum.
  14. Hello all. I'm a newbie here...been lurking for a week and I am very impressed. Good people here and very helpful information -- so helpful in fact that all my questions have been addressed without asking, up to now. A couple of weeks ago I bought a '91 416-8 with about 575 hrs and a 48" deck. It has that row of lights (LEDs) on the dash indicating the status of things, one of which is "oil level" which is controlled by the onan's oil pressure switch. Better than nothing, I guess, but I'd feel much better if I could actually monitor the oil pressure. My question is: Is there a simple way to tap into "pressure" on the onan, by which I mean, is there a plugged-off hole in the block somewhere for that purpose or will I have to "rig it" by remounting the oil pressure switch on a tee and tap in there? BTW, it looks like I can fit the gauge centered and above the voltmeter and hourmeter on the instrument panel without looking "grossly unfactory." Again, great forum here, and yes I am already hooked on Wheel Horse after just a coupla weeks with this one! (hooked first day actually... got rid of the 18HP AYP/Crapsman/Powerpro/Disposable rider the same day, lol)