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About mrfixit82852

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  • Birthday 08/28/1952

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  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Garden Tractors
  1. Wheel Hub Pullers

    That is what I used 3/8 bolts and made sure the smooth shank was in the hub. No thread to thread contact. Joe
  2. Wheel Hub Pullers

    Yes the 7/16 bolts is the way to go, but I did not have any in house. One suggestion would be to put nuts on the bolts after they are screwed into the hub. This way there is no chance of pulling them out of the threads. The hubs we had were like really stuck on those axles. GREAT JOB The first light weight puller we used rip the threads right out of the plate and nut. So that was made to use a 5/8 bolt instead of 1/2 inch bolt. But I thought the 5/8 bolt might not work either. So that is when I went to the 1 inch althread. It is great to see members posting their photos so we all can share. Joe
  3. Wheel Hub Pullers

    Thats good to know about removing the bolts to slide the axle out. My friend is a member here so hopefully he will read this message thread. I emailed him the service manual for the transaxle. I happen to make the light weight puller many years ago. But it only had a 1/2 inch tread, that stripped out trying to pull the hubs. I redid the puller with a 5/8 thread and double nutted the plate. But did not want to take a chance of using it. Using another hub is a great idea. I just did not have one and figure I would use what I had lying around. The hub never stood a chance this time around. With each crank on the threaded rod the hub moved. Thanks for the input on the transaxle, it just might come in handy in the future. If not for me maybe someone else reading this. Joe
  4. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    I never realized I did not post the results to this thread. Been a long time but I did use the JB weld to fill the recesses and it has been running for years with no leaks. Just figure I would post a reply, better late then never. I guess those that know me know I own and moderate 40 yahoo groups and 5 other forums so time is limited. I helped a friend tonight and posted the results on the forum. And happen to start looking at old message threads I posted or replied to. If I did not reply to someone it was and oversite and I'm sorry that happened. Thanks for any help I recieved and hopefully any I gave helped others. Joe
  5. Wheel Hub Pullers

    I used low speed on a drill press with contant pressure.. They drilled very easily. Never even drilled a pilot hole first. Drilled right through with a 1/2 inch drill bit. Joe
  6. Wheel Hub Pullers

    Removing wheel Hubs A friend of mine stopped by and asked how is the best way to remove wheel hubs that are stuck on the axles. In the past I had built a wheel hub puller we decided to try. But the transaxle had 1-1/8 inch axles and the puller was to light duty to remove the hubs. So it got me to thinking. How to build a heavy duty wheel hub puller with what I had lying around. I had and old 10 pound barbell weight and a short piece of 1 inch althread rod with a couple of 1 inch nuts. I drilled 1/2 inch holes in the barbell weight to match the holes on the hub. I then threaded a 1 inch nut onto the 1 inch althread rod and welded it to the end of the rod. I then inserted the rod through the barbell weight and put a 1 inch washer in place and screwed a 1 inch nut on the end of the rod. Using 3/8 inch bolts to connect the barbell weight to the hub and snugging it up to hold it in place. Using a wrench to fit both nuts and now it was time to see if this would work. The first hub we tried a little heat. The hub came off with no problems. The second hub we pulled with using no heat and the same results. Hub came right off. I need to say before we tried this heavy duty puller the hubs were sprayed with PB-Blaster all week and the light duty puller wpuld not get the job done. The threads stripped right out of the nut and plate. but this heavy duty hubs worked great with no problems at all. I guess bushings could be made to reduce the size hole in the barbell weight to accommodate smaller althread rods for smaller axles. I will try and attach PDF files to this message for both pullers. Figure maybe someone could build their own. I will try to attach some files for the light duty puller as well for the heavy duty puller Joe Wheel Hub Puller Heavy Duty.pdf Wheel Hub Puller.pdf
  7. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Paul Thanks for the info Joe
  8. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    I have an engine now. It has the four holes drilled in the bottom, they just need to be tapped. But the block does have the recesses in it. What did you use to clean the block to prepare it to except the JB-Weld. Did you just clean it with a cleaner that removes oil, or did you use a acid to clean the cast iron? Also did you use the two tubes of JB-Weld, or the stick that you roll it in your hands to mix it. Any and all info that you did would be appreciated. Thanks Joe
  9. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Well talked with the Kohler Tech today. Was no help at all. Guess I will be pulling this engine out of the tractor and taking the oil pan off to see what mounting holes the engine does have and if there are recesses in the bottom of the block thanks to those who helped out Joe
  10. K341 head

    Are you sure your Torque wrench is Foot pounds and not Inch pounds Joe
  11. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Paul thanks for the tip about JB Weld, sure would make it easier then welding or making a plate Thanks Joe
  12. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Yours isn't drilled for points, is it, Joe? Terry No there are no holes drilled for points. No holes drilled in the bottom of the block on either flange either. It has the humps on the flange, but no holes drilled for plugs. I am hoping Kohler can shed some light on this. I really hate pulling the engine out and then find it has those recesses. but either way, I am going to have to make it work. I really do appreciate your help Joe
  13. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Now that I realized it has points and went back to look at the auction, it is actually a K-321 that is incorrectly listed (on eBay) as a Magnum. eBay item #120493957873 is supposed to be a true M16 magnum and it has a clear picture of the pan rail. Terry I checked out that item on ebay. That one does have the block drilled out and tapped for pipe plugs near the bottom. My block does not have the pipe plugs in it. I am wondering if someone switched the sheet metal on the engine over the years. Reason why I am thinking this is because the block on ebay has 12 fins, mine has 13 thanks for all your help Joe
  14. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Terry I will be calling Kohler tech support tomorrow for sure. I know my block does not have the plugs in it like in the photo you posted. I am hoping the bottom of the block does not have the recesses. If it does, i will either have to make an adaptor plate, or weld them up. Maybe I will get lucky and not have to pull the engine apart just to see if it does. was that a Magnum block photo or the K series engine. Just curious, there might be a difference between both style blocks Thanks for your help Joe
  15. Engine-16HP-Kohler M-16-S Spec PS-711523

    Terry Thanks for the photo. What it is I have a complete engine in a running tractor. but I want to use it in a different brand tractor that needs the narrow mount. I am hoping it will work. but hate to pull the engine out of that tractor and rip it apart if it won't work. so I guess the more photos I get of this engine block will help me from having to tear it apart Thanks Joe Terry I just went out back and looked at the engine I have. It does have the raises in the casting, but it does not have the plugs in it. So now I have to wonder if the bottom of the block has those recesses in it. One thing I might be able to do is make a 1/4 inch plate that bolts to the flange and will allow me to bolt the plate to the small narrow oil pan. I have to wonder if Kohler made and adaptor plate to do this Once again Thanks Joe