achto

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About achto

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  • Birthday March 12

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1960 Suburban 400
    1961 701
    1966 1076
    1967 867
    1968 Raider 12
  • favoritemodel
    1076

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  • Location
    Redgranite, WI

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  1. Glad you found the issue & didn't have to tear the engine down again.
  2. If you can find a supplier near you, VanSickle acrylic enamel is an excellent single stage automotive quality paint at a lower cost. IH red is a close match to Wheel Horse red. Wet on wet application from primer to paint and good dry times. http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tta.html. It is best sprayed through a gun with their hardener, but it is also available in spray cans. I've sprayed a lot of this paint and have never been disappointed.
  3. I mentioned that the steering wheel that was on this tractor when I got it was wrong. Today I had a little time to work on things so I made a new steering wheel. I also wanted to share some of my progress on the transmission. The tranny is one of my biggest challenges on this tractor. There are not many parts that can be purchased for this thing so you will notice that most of the parts are going to be made or altered by me. The first rack that I started on was the input shaft. I had to cut the shaft on both ends to remove it from the tranny. The o.d. required to make the replacement pieces is 1 3/8". After some searching I found that this was a special order size and it was actually more expensive than 1 1/2 at the places I checked. Then when I was removing the axles from my wood hauling trailer (which was a 1 ton GM truck originally) I noticed that they were 1 3/8" o.d. Score!!! It didn't take long for me to figure out exactly how difficult this material was to work with though. I learned that it didn't like to be rubbed, things went much better if you were more aggressive with it. Other wise it wanted to work harden on you. After figuring that out, things went slightly better. The rack of gears at the top of the pic is what I have to replace. Below that is the start of my new pieces. The three smaller pieces will need sprockets welded on to them and will need bushings inserted into the bore of them. The two longer pieces need some time on the mill yet and will need an internal key way cut into them.
  4. Oddly though there are no brakes at all on this tractor. When you turn tight the final drive belt for the inside wheel is loosened so that it will slip. Kind of a strange differential. The one front tire that was on it when I brought it home was hard rubber. It is supposed to have pneumatic tires on the front. 4.00 x 8's
  5. For those of you that opened this wondering what is a McLean, here is a link to some history on the tractor. It is also the most information that I have found on the McLean.http://www.tractorfriends.org/lawngardentractors/mccleangardentractors/mccleangardentractors.html Last year when I bought my Suburban 400 I also saw this strange little tractor sitting off to the side. I had no idea what it was but my interest was peaked. I took a couple pic's then kinda forgot about it for a while. Eventually it came back into my thoughts and I decided to do some research to find out what it was. I posted my pic's on here hoping some one would recognize it but I seemed to have every one stumped. After a few days of searching I finally found a picture of one on the net. Great! I thought, now I can find some info. Well there just isn't a lot of info out there on these thing, unfortunately. I did manage to find the owner of the one in the link that I posted above. He's a great guy, I spent some time on the phone with him and he was willing to send me some pic's to help me out with my project. Below are pics of when I brought my McLean home. Really rough shape, probably not worth fixing but it's a rare tractor so I was willing to give it a shot. A tractor needs an engine so I started there first. The K90 that was in the tractor was locked up of course, but after a month of dumping ATF down the plug hole two times a week it broke free. All of the tins and the bearing plate were junk so I started to look for parts. Then I found a K91 close buy and decided to go with that engine instead. I will tackle the K90 another time. There are many great engine rebuild posts on here so I'm going to keep mine real simple. 1 2 3 Next was the tear down on the rest of the tractor. Most of this went well, a PO had made a lot of changes that I had to cut out. I will share those as I go along on this resto. First thing that I tackled was the front end. The steering shaft had an aluminum pulley on one end and an aluminum steering wheel on the other, both of which were locked on to the shaft. i decided to cut the shaft in half so I could deal with removing the pulley & wheel on the bench. The steering wheel I did not remove because it is wrong anyway, but I needed the pulley. A little wax and some heat helped start to get things moving and then "Sha doobie Shattered Shattered". Well I have no way of casting aluminum but I did find a nice chunk of aluminum stock laying in my garage. It was 3 1/4" dia, I needed 2 1/8" dia. Time to make some shavings. Finished product next to original. A PO also cut part of the steering arms off that will be required for the differential to work. I made new pieces and reinforced the axle where it was worn. Then carefully measured and lined things up so I could weld every thing back together. Removing the old steering arm was great fun! Front end mocked up and looks ready for paint. Next it is on to the transmission. What to do with this mess?!
  6. The white smoke still has me puzzled. How long has the engine ran since the rebuild? If it has run for more than 15 to 20 min, any assembly lube should be burned off. The only time I've seen white smoke from an air cooled engine is when the gas was contaminated with diesel.
  7. No disrespect, just needed to know. White smoke seems to be an odd color from a air cooled engine. Probably some oil burn off yet. If no one mentions anything that you might have forgotten, then I would run the engine and get it broke in, the smoking should stop. Remember to keep your RPM's up, this is better for engines with no oil pump during break in.
  8. Did you deglaze the cylinder before installing the new rings?
  9. I agree! Amazing how a little red paint can make things blend in.
  10. If you can't find some let me know. I'm gonna try to get over to your place this weekend, I could bring some for you.
  11. Putting these shims in should get rid of your steering slop. If you happen to have some HD wheel bearing shims laying around, they would work perfectly. You could also try a 14ga machine washer, but they are around .075" thick.
  12. Just wondering if you cleaned the paint off of the shaft where the ball sits? I found that having paint on any bearing surface can cause some issues. This axle & hub look like they could've been a good candidate for my full length key trick. It would suck to take the tranny back apart now though. Looks like your making good progress. Looking forward to seeing it back in action.
  13. Sounds like the PO had the cable set up right. You have to take into consideration that the Kohler manual does not cover every little variation of their engines. Not all K181's had the extra tab on the gov wheel. If you put the cable mounting arm back at 12 o'clock and attach the cable back to the little arm on the gov wheel you will have more control of the gov. All that little arm does is increase the cable travel. My K181 does not have that little arm on the gov wheel and it's a PITA to get the throttle set where I want, not much movement from idle to wide open. I'm actually thinking about welding a tab on the gov wheel on mine so that I have more cable travel. This will increase my ability to make minor adjustments on my engine speed.
  14. D-648 is the Delco replacement and will work just fine. When it comes to finding engine parts for your you need to use the engine manufacturers manuals.