Straight From the Horse's Mouth - The final chapter

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clip

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About clip

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    GT-1600
  • favoritemodel
    GT-1600

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  • Location
    24551

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  1. Its just a high-solids epoxy used for self-leveling floors. Chips easily when tools are dropped, scratches and scuffs easily when boxes are moved around. I haven't been too impressed with it. Although it does do a good job of sealing contamination in.
  2. Hot tips

    Hot tip: Use the tip of a large soldering iron to apply localized heat when removing a screw that has permanent threadlocker on the threads. The iron will not scorch or warp the neighboring paint and sheet metal like a torch.
  3. What is destroying my belts?

    Under size sheaves can cause overheating leading to the cracking you're seeing. You've verified all are the correct diameter? Checked angle/depth with a plastic belt gauge? edit: have you tried the old idler and sheave you mentioned replacing at the beginning of this thread? There have been so many ideas I can't keep track of them.
  4. What is destroying my belts?

    Are you running the mule drive off the inner/larger or outer/smaller groove?
  5. Front tires on 416

    I've mounted them before but for free-$5 each tire shops do it with no sweat in 5 mins without tearing up the rim or the tire. Well worth it. Believe they're usually tubeless.
  6. 419XT Mower uneven cutting

    According to the manual, your height of cut is correct (adj. from 1 1/2 - 3 1/2 inches). On my attachment bar, there were two spacers/sleeves intended to center the bracket on the mid-mount under the mower frame. One of these had worn down quite a bit and I needed to add some metal with the torch to keep it centered. If your bar is worn (doubtful with low hours) it would have enough play to tip side-side while mowing. Another possibility is a warped mower deck shell.
  7. 419XT Mower uneven cutting

    The anti-scalp wheels should only contact the ground when they hit a rise like a small hill or bump, they're not intended to support the deck while mowing. Only the two rear wheels that set the height are in contact at all times. What's your blade height at the front when it's aligned with the long axis of the mower? I'm thinking something is mounted incorrectly that reduces the blade distance to the ground if your highest setting is still too short. The deck should be able to float side to sidesomewhat when it's up in the air so feeling loose is not uncommon. It should retract up under the mower and put pressure on the rubber stops when in the transport position to keep from swinging around while moving.
  8. problem with the C-160 I just got

    Basic troubleshooting to start. Do you have air? Fuel? Spark? Sounds more like a fuel issue than anything.
  9. PTO clutch temperature

    My clutch sits right below the exhaust on the 16hp Briggs, most of the PTO linkage gets very hot from that too. 190F isn't too bad, you should be able to notice that burning brake/clutch smell when it starts slipping.
  10. Gt1100 workhorse engine swap

    Is there something wrong with the Briggs?
  11. What is destroying my belts?

    This is getting to that point where I'd offer to buy it from you but I couldn't afford the belts. Here's another suggestion: Belt speed too high (or weak tensioner spring) causing it to stretch at speed and lose contact momentarily. Reference this picture of my running drill press:
  12. What is destroying my belts?

    That's what I've always associated with failing rotating shafts. I don't think it's an issue of continuous drag because you'd see low-grade damage across the entire belt and lots of smoke. And the mower deck belt is totally disconnected from any powered rotating pulleys, so my conclusion would be all pulleys are moving the same speed, except one or more moving slower because they can't move faster. I've got a 42" deck and belt routing is different. There's no way to mix up routing on a 36" deck is there? Highly doubtful but no clue what's chewing up belts.
  13. What is destroying my belts?

    It definitely looks like the belt is overheating. I think the back bending is only serving to make a bad problem worse and is not actually the cause. Any idea what speed your belt is running at (or mule drive)? My suggestion is to clean the pulleys and put layout dye or something similar on them and turn the drive pulley by hand to see if you can see any points that are wearing abnormally fast. If nothing, run it under power for several seconds at a time. Don't know if this will take all the dye off quickly or not. It really looks like one or more pulleys is seizing intermittently at operating speeds.
  14. He turns out quite a bit of cool stuff!
  15. The offset makes sense. Let's see some video of this beast!
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