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About oliver2-44

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/24/1956

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Oliver 2-44 Backhoe/Loader
    1985 Wheelhorse 312-8
    1979 wheelhorse C-161
    1984 John Deere 116
    2003 John Deere LT155
    1960 Suburban 400
  • favoritemodel
    1979 C-161

Profile Information

  • Location
    Marble Falls, Tx
  • Occupation
    Dam & Hydro Maintenance Supt
  • Interests
    Rebuilding Things
    Spending time on lake LBJ
    Deer Hunting
    Wood Working

Recent Profile Visitors

3,344 profile views
  1. Thanks for all the great comments. Gives me lots to think about. I'm going to did the Sears rear blade out and thinks out making it a box blade with rippers I also have one other idea that y'all can help me out with. Y'all mentioning the rippers reminded me of a guy who had made a set of pivoting teeth on the back side of a large bulldozed blade. When he was backing up he would back drag with the blade. Just above the ground and the teeth would dig in and rip. When he pushed forward the teeth pivoted up and just slid along. I thing the teeth were pivoting on a large round bar minted on the back of the blade. No lost work time....pushing dirt forward and ripping backing up If I coil ups make that work I could use one tractor and one implement for the job
  2. @c-series don I'd appreciate if you could post a deli tires of the box blade with a tape measure in them for reference. I have a Sears rear blade that came with a non runner WH. I'd like to compare to see if it would be easy to make into a box bladei
  3. This Really upsets Me

    Sadden to hear this. I had a lot of respect for Shawn White for his athletic ability. But he's got to have respect for our flag, especially representing our great country in front of the world.
  4. I've already added the 2nd hydraulic valve And have a cylinder awaiting a rear mount. So the lifting part is covered. @WVHillbilly520H Thanks for the info on the XI series hitch. Is it the same width as a 3,4,5 and C series hitch. If so, maybe I could use one of them and not have to reinvent the wheel, or am I missing something? while I like the 2nd tractor idea, I already have a non runner in the shed that needs major life support. WH aren't the most plentiful around here.
  5. I have a large dirt leveling & shaping project coming up down the road. Seat time! I need to be able to loosen up high areas to push them around to level and improve drainage of a 100 ft x 150 ft back yard. The soil is sandy/clay granite gravel. It has enough clay in it to be very hard when very dry, but will dig fairly easily when damp. So I'm starting to think about how to install a tiller and dozer blade on my C-160 at the same time. I wish I could even mount the Tiller and a Center Mount Grader Blade at the same time. But I suspect the blade would hit the front wheels when angled since it would be mounted forward of its normal position, or it would hit the front tiller pulley? One idea I'm thinking of essentially making a double rear axle hitch, one in front of the other. The tiller would mount in the rear mount under the axle in the normal positionn so the pulleys would be in the correct location so the belt length would not change. The dozer blade wound mount in the forward mount, and its lift link would have to be a custom length. I'm thinking I need to make some type of support bracket from each side of the front mount that would mount to the frame. The forward mount would also have to be spaced forward enough so the end of the dozer blade arms would not hit the tiller cross bar in the rear hitch mount.The normal hitch locks probable would not work, so I'm thinking a locking bar would be bolted on to lock both implements in place. The other idea would be one hitch directly below the other in the normal axle position. It would also have to have some type of brace to the forward frame so as to not put a twisting force on the axle. I haven't figured out if there's enough ground clearance to do this type of arrangement. The front dozer blade would be lifted by the existing hydraulic lift and the rear tiller would be lifted by a 2nd rear hydraulic cylinder. Only one implement would be in use at one time. I'm thinking I will make a wood mock up of both ideas to work out some basic details before I start cutting & welding. Has anyone tried this? I would like to learn what worked and what didn't from others. if you haven't tried it, I still like to hear your thoughts on what might work, or potential problems that I haven't thought of yet. Thanks So many projects, got to find a way to make them fun!
  6. Fixing my c120 auto

    Checkout kustonlawnandgarden.com/Kohler-engines-remanufactured_c4.htm A remanufactured short Bloch would cost you about $700. They do all the detailed engine work and you bolt your original head, oil pan, carb and sheet metal back on
  7. Small - RJ,s and Surburbans (my wife says there cute)++ Medium - 953/1054 WH, 2nd runner up my Case 180. The hydraulic drive is cool Large - my Old Oliver 2-44 loader/backhoe. Tractor It's slow, a beast to steer, sips diesel and at 9900 lbs puts 5 tons of grunt into that loader
  8. Brillion GT 6

    Cool I've never heard of a Brilliant tractor. We had a pull type Brilliann seeder at the farm in the 70's. I wonder if there's any connection
  9. I'm an hour from Austin and go there almost weekly for work. If you end moving this direction let me know if I can help you with anything. I could store a few horses in a barn at the farm if it would help
  10. WH Cultivators and hitch

    Would these cultivators fit on a Suburban if the center mounting brackets were added ?
  11. Brian Millet sells the throttle shaft bushings but at times he can be very hard to place a order with. Some time ago a member here posted the following info that I saved and used Your local hardware store with all the little drawers may have a " Hillman brass bushing # 58087. It looks like a flat brass washer. I used this on a couple of carbs and it took out all the slop and they responded to adjustment much better. I stacked 2 of them in the recess on the top of the carb that the throttle shaft comes through. On one the shaft fit a little tight , so I took a drill bit the nominal size of the shaft and worked the bit by hand to ream the bushings slightly Kohler also makes a bushing part # 2515801-5 but I never found it in stock at any of the online suppliers.
  12. DAD

    Sorry for your loss. You 3 brothers showed you greates love for him. Sound like you have great memories of him. I'm God bless each of you
  13. Vacuum oil removal

    Well everyone has an opinion , so I'm going to say I'm not a fan of vacuum oil removal. When I drain oil I like to run the engine to warm the oil up then drain it and let every bit of dirty oil drip out the drain. I just don't feel you can vacuum out as much oil as will drip out. I also think you would be more prone to leave a touch more sludge in the bottom It fairly common to use ia vacuum on inboard boat engines that are hard to get to the bottom of. I've tried oil vacuums several times and just never felt I got the large majority of the old oil out. In my boats I always buy a hose that permanently screws into the drain plug hole and lays in the bottom of the cost capped off. I just push the hose out the bilge plug hole, uncap it and drain away
  14. My 856 Project

    Nice looking engine and axle rebushing. Back in my tractor shop flunky days an ol farmer chewed me out for charging him for a head gasket on an old ford. He said just clean the gasket, soak it in water and put it in the freezer overnight to "swell it a little". Then thaw it out and reuse it. I've done this on several small engines over the years and never had a problem. I don't know if the freezing really helps but I usually have time to do it and it doesn't cost anything. But on a full rebuild I now use a new one
  15. Happy Birthday daveoman1966

    Happy Birthday We're glad your a Wheel Horse nut like the rest of us!