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About SLW4220

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  1. I have a 1993 520H that was running fine during the last snow fall and plowing in early December 2014. So with snow predicted in the next few days I started it this morning only to find that the engine would not run smoothly unless choked significantly and with the throttle set high. And, it won't stay running with out choking and setting the throttle high. (no trouble starting) It seemed to lope (fast-slow-fast-slow) as if the fuel was being constricted, unless almost fully choked and the throttle set high. I changed the fuel filter without no improvement. I also let it run for about 20 minutes to see if that would help clean out a possible restriction, but with no improvement. This problem occurred since my last successful plowing in December, so it seems to me it must be a fuel delivery issue. I have used regular gas with ethanol and a fuel stabilizer in previous 10 winters and never had any starting or running problems. Thanks in advance for any suggestions that may resolve this problem. Stephen
  2. The Solution is discovered: ----------------------------- previously on Sept 22 I posted: "A new question: There is a connector that was loose behind the battery with blue, brown, purple wires which would seem to be part of the seat safety switch, the leads are only about 4 inches long with nothing in sight within reach to plug it into. Perhaps this wiring harness could be used for another setup?" ---------------------------- I kept coming back the this floppy switch hanging with no place to plug in, I know it was the missing link but could find no place to plug it in. Quite by accident I viewed some pin connectors from just the right angle and saw them slightly protruding from the back side of the center brace in the in the battery compartment. I did not remember that it came loose when I was replacing the the throttle cable. I really feed dumb for not finding this before, or remembering it came off when I was removing the old throttle cable. Once plug in It started. Again thanks for all the moral support that kept me going until I could get my head clear and see the obvious. And the exercise has provided a much better understanding of the electrical system of my 520-H. And in the process I discovered the corrupted connector 29 that was failing, but probable would have not died completely until the first heavy snow. Best regards, Stephen
  3. I cut the wires off both sides of the molex connector leaving enough sticking out to identify the wire color going into the molex and coming out the other side. I had made a diagram but once the connector was out it provided a physical wire-to-wire match. I replace the molex connector with 9 individual Male or Female connectors, then plugged them together according to the wire to wire connection on the cut out molex. I now have dash lights and headlights when I turn the switch and a click, but it still no start. (so there i power at the switch) There is constant power at the 30 and 25 Amp fuses, and switched power from the key on the 15 Amp lighting circuit. The starter engages when I connect a jumper from the battery to the solenoid. Both the seat and PTO switches seem to be ok. I am surprised how calm I feel today, and I am very thankful that the faulty molex connector quit now, and not in the middle of winter with 18" of snow out of my 600 foot driveway.
  4. I got the molex connector at radio shack this after noon and spent time to diagram the wiring as it exists at that connection, as not every wire is a color match. Then I checked it and found that my 21 year old dirty wiring can easily be misidentified and corrected my errors, then checked it again just to be sure. So I have a diagram of the plug and socket wiring. After messing with the male end of the molex connector to strip and make up the leads for the discovered that the other end that I was connecting to was very short, and it would be a near impossible job to get the tools into the tight space. A simpler solution will be to make male & female connection for each of the 9 wires, then encase them in a cut off piece bicycle tire tube with a few cable ties. This should protect the wiring from the weather, and I will add to my owners manual the color to color connection if I ever need to work on it in the future. This will allow the wiring to be disconnected if necessary and provide a much easier fix the the molex connector. Geno and Nick I can't thank each of you enough. The support and ideas when I was stuck in the dark provided a ray of light that I so appreciate, and I did learn a lot about wiring on the 520-H in this process, even in my struggle. Thank you both for your generosity and sharing your wisdom. Stephen
  5. Well I finally paid attention and gave more then a glance and a tug, to connector 29. It is falling apart and I probably banged it when changing the oil filter when servicing which was the beginning of this problem. It actually "fell apart in my hand" when I pulled to separate the connection. It seems however it, that the connector cap (NN10281) has been discontinued by Toro with no replacement. The contact socket (NN10279) is still available. I presume that any similar matching male-female connector that would accommodate the correct number of wires to mate them would work fine. Any suggestions where I might get them? I suspect that new connector and socket will fix the starting problem and will post either way. Thank you Geno and Km3h for being generous with your time and knowledge, and patience with me as I stumbled around seeking a solution. Stephen
  6. Here is a summary as of 9:20 PM EST What's working (now that the ground is connected (which was not in my previous report) 1. I can engage the starter with a direct jump from the battery to the solenoid. 2. I do have 12.5 volts at the first two fuse locations (30 and 20 Amp) they are connected. The third fuse 15 Amp has no power. 3. I have tested the key switch with a multi-meter and it checks out ok, and I have power at the key switch. Some thoughts Reviewing the schematic the power comes from 25 Amp fuse thru the key switch and back through the 15Amp fuse to the lighting system. So there is no power at that fuse (15 Amp) unless the key turned on. And, I not currently getting power with the key turned on, a concern but would not prevent the machine starting only the lighting circuit. To be continued
  7. The switch checks out ok. I am getting a little fuzzy headed and thought I would go back last place I found life in this machine and run a jumper from the positive side of the battery directly to where the blue wire attaches to the solenoid, as soon as the jumper hits the solenoid post, it should attempt to start, but no sign of life and of course the fuse block is dead as well. So I seem to be back to where I began this conversation. Actually I'm behind, since last time I I tried I did get a response from the starter. To make matters worse the 520-H is sitting behind my Ferris 60" zero turn mower, blocking access out of this bay of my garage and I have 3 Ac of lawn that keeps growing.
  8. I tested the power side of the fuse block with a multi meter and have 12 volts on both the 30 Amp and 20Amp fuses receptacles but get no reliable reading on the 15 Amp which connects to the switch. (Just some mA dancing randomly on the meter which I assume is a result of the wires connected to from the fuse receptacles the switch terminal.) Seems line the switch may have failed, I won't have time to check that until this afternoon. What else do you think might be causing this issue.
  9. Thanks km3h, I have been to the website for parts before, however drawings you are showing must be for another year or version. I have a 1993 Model 73401 Ser.# 3902160 and there are only the 3 fuses in the fuse block, and none that I can find on the drawing, or my 520-H. Since my last post I have pulled off the fuse block thinking I would replace it, (what a pain to get the lock nuts off the bottom with no room for a wrench) but the wiring looks like it may be attached permanently and be replaced as a unit, so I haven't gone any further, since that is not a job I want to get into unless necessary, and the block and contacts look ok. A new question: There is a connector that was loose behind the battery with blue, brown, purple wires which would seem to be part of the seat safety switch, the leads are only about 4 inches long with nothing in sight within reach to plug it into. Perhaps this wiring harness could be used for another setup? So after working on most of today I don't feel like I have made much progress in resolving the no start problem. I have no response when I turn on the key not even the click and brief flash of the dash lights that occurred before. Feels like I've been chasing myself in circles, rather then trouble shooting.
  10. km3h, My call sign is k7jop since 1958, although I haven't been active in the past few years. I jumped from the battery to the solenoid as you suggested. (I was a little brain dead when I wrote the previous communication) When the key is turned on, I get a brief flash of dash lights, then off. This happens if the machine has been sitting several hours, and only happens once. A second key turn produces no response from the dash lights (or of course the starter). In my fuse block, the first opening is blank with no fuse holder, the next three are 15, 20, 30 Amp. The 30 Amp was a little grungy and that was the one I cleaned. The fuse holder on my 520H is on the is to the right of the battery and out of the way, I haven't had much time today to experiment, due to other family obligations but will explore a bit more tomorrow. Thank you for you generous contribution of assistance in this matter.
  11. Kurt-Nepa 1. I loved you suggestion about the ignition switch and thought it was a possible, solution it was logical and simple. However after trying it there was no change in my situation. 2. I also tried the suggestion of km3h. I got the engine to crank over with a jumper from the fuse battery, then cleaned the fuse box and replaced with a new fuse. When I attempted to start the engine and turned the ignition switch I lost the dash board lights which now are off when I turn the key on. Seems I have added to my confusion. (question is km3h a ham radio call sign?)
  12. Toro Wheel horse 520-H engine will not start Last week I serviced my 1993 520-H Toro Wheel Horse w/snow blower and since it had not been used since last April the battery required a jump to start. After running the engine and changing hydraulic oil, and filters I remove the battery to give access to change the throttle cable which had become corroded and was limiting the power available due to the sticking. Upon reinstalling battery the dash board and headlights worked, but nothing more then a single click when attempting to start the engine. Both the PTO and seat safety switches seem to be working. I have checked and changed all the fuses and have power at the starter. Seems like I am missing something simple, because this failure seems to be a result of this recent maintenance work..... Help