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PeacemakerJack

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PeacemakerJack last won the day on June 20

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About PeacemakerJack

  • Rank
    Senior Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/21/1977

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1970 GT14 (Zach's Blackbeard)
    1982 SuperC195 (Vader)
    1994 314-8 (GhostRider)
    2000 523Dxi (Kelli's RED)
  • favoritemodel
    875 (Dad’s:1975–?)

Profile Information

  • Location
    Omro/ Wisconsin
  • Occupation
    Framing Contractor/Youth Pastor
  • Interests
    Spending time playing with my kids, Cowboy Action Shooting, guns in general, vintage Garden Tractors, Vintage Cars and Trucks, motorcycles, ministering to teens and adults

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I also spotted your SASS sticker. I have shot CAS for the last decade plus! Another fun hobby to be involved with for sure. Great job on your restore, can’t wait to see the finished project
  2. Starter Clicking

    I was using one of my tractors the other day to pull the yard cart to pick up some fallen apples for the deer. The tractor didn’t have a battery so I grabbed one and stuck it in. Tightened the cables and started it no problem. The boys were driving the tractor while I was finishing cutting the lawn in another part of the yard. I finally drove to the orchard to see what was taking them so long and I saw the tractor sitting there. Caleb said that the tractor won’t start. I turned the key and just a click. I monkeyed with it for a minute or two but to no avail. Remembering the above statement, I grabbed my wrenches, looses the bolts and tightened again. This time—success! I hope that yours would be this easy, but if not, I hope you find it is something simple. Wiring issues can make you pull out your hair for sure.
  3. Finally got my 953

    That is great to see “Hank” finally at your place! PM @Achto if you get a chance or revisit his Rat Rod Suburban build. He has some really cool ways to patina metal for sure... i’ll continue To follow along and see what becomes of this very cool big wheel GT! Nice haul my friend...
  4. Let’s Go Plowing—rolling Dirt!

    Primarily setting the depth of the plow in the soil. If your tractor is set up with a stop like a strong arm (manual lift) tractor does, then you can dial that to the exact height that works for your conditions and it keeps a consistent depth. If you have a tractor that doesn’t have an adjustable stop, then you find yourself constantly playing with the lift to get the right depth. A land wheel, lets you drop it and go! Dad’s Clyde has hydraulic lift with no provision for a depth stop...so he built a super cool adjustable land wheel that works great. It allows him to adjust for conditions yet drop the plow all the way at the beginning of each furrow. It works really well! Funny story about that—early on in my plowing experience, I had set up a CC682 for plowing. It was a hydro with a Magnum 18 and I used it with my first plow, an old style “flat beam” 10” Brinly. It didn’t take me long to get the hang of it because the soil conditions were nearly perfect on harvested wheat ground. I decided to open it up a bit and was doing about 5mph when I heard this loud BANG! The whole tractor jumped and lurched forward. I quickly looked behind me and saw a 50# rock sitting up beside my furrow. It did a number on my upper adjuster turning the threaded rod into an “S”! Lesson learned: Rocks, Suck points on plows, and speed don’t make a good cocktail!
  5. Let’s Go Plowing—rolling Dirt!

    Some of the Rigs: @Shynon‘s Machine @Achto‘s Raider @prondzy‘s Beast @WHX20‘s WHX1😉 My Dad’s Clyde GhostRider Here you can see how they are set up and in action. Most of these videos have been posted on the Forum before but in keeping with the topic, I feel it is good to have them all here in one place...
  6. Let’s Go Plowing—rolling Dirt!

    Thanks guys for your input and the links already! Thanks @Stormin for checking in, not only with an informative post but also cool pics of your rig and a detailed explanation of some of the differences between plowing/ploughing for competition and plowing for “fun”. You guys do a great job over there and I love your plow tractor! 1. If everything is set as it should be, and you don’t ride out of the furrow at all, there shouldn’t be “missed spots”. One adjustment that I have found to be critical on keeping a straight line is the left hand bolt in the Brinly hitch. I adjust that out until it solidly contacts the hitch on the plow. Then I apply some pressure to the right side of the plow beam where it connects to the moldboard pushing it to the left which simulates the pressure of the ground working against it. While putting pressure on it, I eyeball the line of the beam to make sure it makes a straight line to the front of the tractor. Brinly’s website says to keep both bolts loose on each side of your hitch pin. I have not found this to work well in field plowing. 2. I suppose the holes make a little difference but I generally always use the middle one. Let’s see if our other plow dogs have a different take on this one. Brinly’s directions indicate which hole to use based on the spacing of your rear tires. From my “seat of the pants” testing, I generally stay with my hitch pin in the center hole. 3. Speed is dependent on conditions. I generally like 2nd gear while varying exact speed with the throttle. Sometimes it is necessary to plow in 1st. I’ve not personally ever tried to plow in Hi gear! 4. Above I listed what I was running on GhostRider for front weights. Maybe @Shynon or @Achto will check in with the amount of front weight they are using. I’ve been plowing with the CC100 in the above black and white photo for about 5 years now. It is a really good little plow tractor that holds its own well... however, I was at a big plow day in Iowa several years ago and Caleb was plowing on the Mule for about two hours. All the sudden I noticed that he was having trouble keeping the suck point in the ground. I had him get off the tractor and I took a round. I had to stand on the plow to get it in the ground. There was a clump of dirt that wasn’t coming off of the point and so I decided to investigate... Turns out that it had perfectly picked up a drag link on the point and it wasn’t allowing it to sink in the ground. This was the culprit! Who would think that little piece of metal would make such a big difference in the operation of the plow? I’m relating this story to let you know that sometimes the smallest thing out of whack can cause a big problem. Once the link was off, I was back in business! The adjustment of that suck point is a very important adjustment. I’ve seen many guys in hard ground (I.e. bad ground conditions) keep adjusting their point down without success. If the ground is too hard, you won’t get that point into the ground, and if you could—you likely wouldn’t have the power or traction to pull it! This is a close up of the three 22# weights I’m running. Here’s our favorite @stevasaurus getting some seat time on GhostRider a couple of years ago.
  7. I’m sure there have been threads started specifically for this topic on here and if the moderators want to combine this with one of those, please do. Per @Daron1965‘s request, I’ll start a thread about my personal favorite attachment for a Garden Tractor—the furrow plow. I want to state clearly here that I don’t claim to be an authority on this subject. Maybe like doctors “practice medicine”, I find myself “practicing with a Brinly” every time that I head out into a field. I’m going to tag a few of my buddies like @Achto @WHX20 @Shynon @prondzy @Stormin @WVHillbilly520H (If i’ve Forgotten you, not my intention, please join the discussion) Who are all “plow dogs” in that they enjoy climbing into the furrows and turning earth for extended periods of time! I hope that they will weigh in here with their experiences and things that they have done with their rigs and plows. Pictures will definitely welcome and encouraged in this thread, both for instruction and coolness factor. It is funny how people look at someone on a garden tractor turning under a field! I wish I had a dollar for every time someone uninitiated said to me, “I didn’t think you could do that with a lawnmower!” Many folks today have seen people blading with a GT, mowing with a GT, blowing with a GT, but when they see someone plowing with one—they are often shocked. Our culture has moved so far from the agregarian society that people aren’t familiar with it. I bought a 10” Brinly two weeks ago from a buddy who brought it to my Uncle’s Farm day. It was a vey cost efficient price. Apparently, he found it at a garage sale. The person had painted it all black and was using it for a yard ornament because they had no idea what it was for. The first thing I want to make clear about plowing with a GT: GROUND CONDITIONS ARE OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE! If you are trying to plow red or blue clay that hasn’t seen a drop of rain in two months—Don’t Even waste your time. You won’t have fun, you won’t have very good success, and you’ll probably break your tractor in the process! Also, be aware that a garden will traditionally plow easier than a field because the field gets compacted throughout the year with large equipment that weigh anywhere from 5 ton to 20 and more. If the soil is too wet when you are trying to plow it will stick to everything unless it is a real sandy soil. This soil here was quite sandy but was still as hard as a rock. We had trouble getting the plows to suck in. When a plow is only cutting a 2” deep furrow, the geometry of the plow isn’t correct and the next pass or tractor in the furrow is acting more like a chisel plow than a moldboard plow. One of the awesome things about GT plow days, is the opportunity to share the experience with some buddies. Rarely do we get together to blow snow or cut lawn. I like GT shows but I like plow days better. Why? Because not only do we get to look at cool tractors or show off our own, we get to use them and see them in operation. Here my Uncle Roger is using his 314-8 to turn my garden. He was cutting a 6-7” deep furrow with his 10” Brinly and it was doing a beautiful job. This soil is a sandy loam and the moisture content was perfect. One problem with most WH’s as a plow tractor—they are way too light in the front. If you want to do any SERIOUS plowing with one, you need at least a good 60-70#’s or more of front end weight. I’m running 3- 22# weights on my front attach-a-matic and a pair of cast front wheel weights on GhostRider. When I first plowed with him, I couldn’t keep the front down! I was tempted to sit on the hood and look backwards over my shoulder . Power is important and it is good to have a strong running engine. However, there is no need for 25hp when a strong K301 will pull a 12” Brinly in moderate soil conditions with proper adjustments and weight all day. Size your plow to your tractor and it’s power. Comanche is an 8hp Tractor and an 8” Plow is suited well to it. I regularly run the Punisher(my 12” Brinly) behind GhostRider (my 314-8). Conditions were nearly perfect this particular day. I was cutting a 6-8” furrow (notice the lean angle on the tractor) and the soil had just the right amount of moisture to scour really well. Tires are important. I like the modern Carlisle TruPower on the left but I know that Tom and Mike swear by Firestone 23’s and I can’t wait for them to weigh in on their experiences. Dan and I have been discussing the pros and cons of tire width. Too wide and your tractor floats more and then it takes more weight to keep it from spinning. Too skinny and you don’t have enough bite in the ground. A clean moldboard is also very important especially if the soil is sticky at all. If you buy a used Brinly and the moldboard and plowshare are all rusty, I’d suggest cleaning them up some with a wire wheel on a grinder or a drill before using it. The dirt in the field will do the rest. I love the mirror shine that Dan has on his plow here! You know the plowing was good when you leave the field and your plow looks like this and your rear tire like that! I have a lot more to say but I have a few other things to take care of right now and so I’ll check back in later...
  8. What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

    Looking good so far. If the picture was a little farther back I could see how much air space you have under the “heel” of the “landside”. For initial adjustment, I give about 1/2” of “Suck”—or tail up off the concrete and suck point on the plow share down. If you are busting new ground on your first pass down and back, it is a good idea to go two more turns suck point down because your wheels aren’t in the furrow. On your second pass and subsequent passes you’ll want to “flatten” out your plow back those two turns. Then as you begin to plow at the correct depth, given that the soil conditions are right, you should be able to stop mid pass and check that space under The tail. You should have about 1/2”-1”. Too much Suck and your plow will fight all you settings because it wants to keep going deeper. Not enough suck and your plow won’t want to go in the ground. There are many other variables—but these are a few basic pointers. Please tag me if you start a thread on your plowing experience tonight, I’d like to follow along and see how you did! Good ground conditions and a properly set up rig can make for one of the most enjoyable things “that you did with your wheel horse today”!
  9. Side Shot Saturday !!

    Thanks Craig for reviving this thread... “Comanche”
  10. Project: Rough Draft

    In the words of Kenny Rogers, “You’ve got to know when to hold ‘em, know when to fold ‘em, know when to walk away, know when to run...” Sad end for this build, but if it has a positive outcome for several other tractors in your stable, then it was “time to fold”.
  11. Busy getting the kids in bed but here are some reference photos that I just took from the “corral”: these are pics of Comanche’s fender pan. Note the similarities to yours. His left fender is even bent down a little like yours is from presumably backing into something. Also note the tool box pan in the middle and cutout for the lift cable. Then you have to use your imagination just a little bit you can see how they melded the old style round fender with the floorboards of a later model tractor. I used JackRabbit’s for reference. They did the opposite of @Achto. He removed his floor boards in favor of the stirrups. They installed floorboards instead of stirrups. that is a cool custom and has a lot of potential. I hope that someday you will have the time, finances, and energy to finish it up.
  12. "Clyde"--Dad's 953

    Randy—I’ll check that out when I get a chance. I could pull one of the wheels and see how it looks with the GT-14. Zach would be stoked and then disappointed. He is a HUGE “AG-bar” (as he calls it) fan! Any tractor without them, he says, “when are you putting AG-bars on this tractor dad?” Is the question that is soon in coming...
  13. "Clyde"--Dad's 953

    The kids in my church call me “storyman Stertz”. These threads like this tend to be story heavy by me. I have a hard time cutting straight to the details and so I’m glad that someone out there enjoys my “documentary” style. Thanks Kevin. I know what you mean about being somewhere that you need to pass some time. This site provides hours of “entertainment” when we need it!
  14. daughter needs tractor

    Hey @mrc I’m the first one to check in from the Central WI “Local Circle”. What type of tractor would you prefer, Hydro or gear drive, twin or single cylinder. I would think that Hydraulic or electric lift would be nice. Just trying to get a feel for preferences. I am very familiar with the Oak Creek area as I framed a church building there about a decade ago. How soon does she need it? @Sparky was so kind to help us out with Comanche that I’d be more than willing to provide transportation and even help look for the right “fit” for her. I’m sure the rest of the Circle would be happy to be invlolved too. One of us will pm you soon.
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