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JamesBe1

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JamesBe1 last won the day on April 26 2012

JamesBe1 had the most liked content!

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About JamesBe1

  • Rank
    Disfunctional 'D' family member

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    C-120 w/chipper
    C-145 w/lawn vac
    D-180 w/FEL
    D-180 w/deck
    Falcon Ultralight Aircraft
  • favoritemodel
    C-120

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Air_Force
  • Location
    NNJ
  • Interests
    C-120 w/chipper
    C-145 w/lawn vac
    D-180 w/FEL
    D-180 w/deck
    Falcon Ultralight Aircraft
  1. Wheel Hubs and Keys

    Yeah, I was wondering about the bushing thingy too. I've had this since the 80's (2nd owner), so it's probably from the factory like that. It sure looks like a bushing or sleeve, but then again, it also looks like an outer lip on the casting that just looks like a bushing. But . . . it makes me wonder: what if someone wanted to bore out a hub and insert a sleeve/bushing, then it would be like new again. A simple and effective way to reman a hub! How do you make a hub puller out of an old hub? I haven't run across any stubborn hubs yet, but when the time comes I sure would like to have one handy. j
  2. Wheel Hubs and Keys

    Hi Jim. I have a drill press, and can probably find a way to mount the hub to keep it perpendicular, but I think this hub is probably past saving at this point.
  3. C-120

    C-120 8-Speed
  4. Wheel Hubs and Keys

    That's a great idea! While I'm at it, I should have them drill and tap a for a second set screw.
  5. Wheel Hubs and Keys

    That's an excellent idea. I see that wheel horse incorporated that into their later hubs. I guess great minds think alike. I was also toying with the idea of cutting a notch into the top of the key for the set screw to rest in. That way, if the set screw were to loosen up and the hub move in or out, the set screw would push the key in the same direction and it would only go so far before the key kept it in place. Not sure if I am going to try that. I'll have to ponder it a bit more. Since my hub is damaged, I think I am just going to replace it. I bought a pair of used one off the site that we all know and love (or hate).
  6. Wheel Hubs and Keys

    Hi Fred! Yes, I got the woodruff key back in correctly. I've had it apart several times now scratching my head. I think I have figured out the issue (tldr: worn hubs). I cleaned the inside of the old hub real well to get a good look at what was going on. I also removed the new (really a used) hub as well is a third one from the old transmission and took a close look at all three. All of them have a deep grove worn into the inside of the hub to greater or lesser degree. On the original hub, the groove was only about the width of a woodruff key It made it look like a double wide key-way for part of the length). On the other two hubs, the groove on each of them went much further around the inside of the hubs. One of them was almost all the way around. All three are shot! I'll try and post a pic if I can find a way of getting a clean shot of the inside of a hub. Have any leads on an inexpensive hub (105763)? On a related note, I had a similar problem on the other axle back in the 90's (yeah, that long ago). The hub was loosening up and moving in and out along the length of the axle. It was a major headache. Out of frustration one day, I took the key out and drove the set screw into the axle key slot. It worked and I haven't looked back since. I've had it off a time or two, and it appears to be holding up ok. I don't think it's an approach that I want to repeat if I can find a better way.
  7. So what's the deal with wheel hubs, woodruff keys, hub depth, and set screws? I have a C-120 8-Speed Manual (61-12k802) I had to remove a tire to change out a torn tire valve, and the wheel and hub were stuck together. I figured it would be simpler to just loosen the hub and pull them both off. It was pretty easy to get the hub and wheel of together. I replace the valve, and put everything back together, and took it for a spin. I got a few hundred feet, and it stopped. The axle was spinning in the hub. I took the wheel and hub off this morning, and with a lot of swearing (it really helps a lot!), separated the hub from the wheel. Looking inside the hub, I can see a long groove worn in the hub about the length of the key. Luckily, I found another hub on an old transmission under a bench in my barn. Both were the same size. I put the new hub on the axle, and am wondering about the hub depth. Should the depth be set so that the screw tightens against the top of the key? If so, then the end of the axle is flush with the end of the hub, but the key is no longer in the keyway. The keyway doesn't appear to run the length of the hub. Should it? If I move the hub closer to the transmission, the axle is sticking out of the hub about two inches, and the screw tightens against the axle. This allows the key to be in the keyway at the end of the hub. I can see this arrangement working, but it doesn't look copaceitc. I can't check the other hub without pulling off the wheel weight, so I figured I would check with the braintrust there first. Anyone know the correct assemble?? Also, do hubs wear out so that the keyway is lost? James
  8. PTO bearings

    Much thanx Garry! Since it is such a common bearing, I figured that I would wander down to my local Tractor Supply and pick one up. I'll print that out and bring it along. j
  9. PTO bearings

    Just for the sake of resurrecting a old thread, it looks like it is my turn to replace my outer bearing. I went to use my C-145 to vacuum leaves and after a couple of minutes, the outer bearing died. It wasn't a pretty sight what with smoke and sparks coming out of the PTO center. I see that it is a simple 3/4"X1-3/4" bearing. The part number listed is 106947. It appears to be a pretty common bearing used on lots of models. I found somewhere on the net that someone crossed it to a Oregon 45-295, and Jeff mentions that it is also a Torrington J-2420. That's great info to have. This site is fantastic help with keeping my old machine running. Luckily, I work near a bearing place, so I'll just drop by there on my lunch hour monday and hopefully, they should have one in stock. Too bad I won't get my leaves done before the weather turns. I'm kinda wondering what the general thought is on chinese bearings (should I find that to be an option). The one that I just took out is marked as "Romania". I don't know how that stacks up in the bearing hierarchy.
  10. New restored Wheel Horse 702 in Catalonia

    Wow, what I nice restoration. I bet your great grandfather is smiling!
  11. I am very sorry to hear about your dad. I am sure he is proud of raising such a talented son. j
  12. D-200 replacement mufflers

    I haven't had the opportunity to run them much. A couple of months after getting things all back together, I had a broken rod on the engine (if I recall correctly). I had a spare engine that I decided to rebuild and install. After I got it installed, I noticed an oil leak that requires a complete disassembly. About that time, I started a new job with a killer commute. I wish I could find time to get it sorted out. Seems like whenever I have any free time from work, there are several other more pressing projects to get done. Sigh. But, for the time I had it going, there was no problems with the stress on the block. One thing I did notice was that the pipes and elbows would work them selves loose from the heat and vibration. That made the mufflers sorta sag. Someone suggested that I use locking nuts to keep things from turning. The correct name eludes me at the moment. They are the nuts that electricians use to hold conduit and strain reliefs in place in junction boxes. I never got the chance to install them to see how it helps.
  13. "Big Box" Deere Help - LA105

    Sounds like a fuel issue. Either the vent (like Forest Road said), or something else is prevening gas from getting to the carb.
  14. That's a tough call. Oil is cheaper and easier to come by. If you have an engine, you probably keep a stock of motor oil. But, ATF edges out motor oil in some areas. If you are willing to pay a little extra, and can keep some on the shelf, it's probably the better bet. Heck, instead of motor oil or ATF, how about considering power steering fluid or straight hydraulic fluid?
  15. Excellent thread gulftane. I am looking forward to watching your resto/mod.
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