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illinilefttackle last won the day on April 26 2015

illinilefttackle had the most liked content!

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About illinilefttackle

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/13/1945

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Ranch King Plus
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Bend In (Mishawaka)
  • Occupation
    Licensed Foster Care Provider
  • Interests
    Everything mechanical, Home repair, watching 12 grand kids & 1 great grand grow . WHEEL HORSES!
    Restoring a Vintage Class A Motorhome

Recent Profile Visitors

2,015 profile views
  1. 314-H snapping drive belts

    I have a C-125A- when I first got it, I plowed snow with it for several days- only thing I noticed with slight bit of smoke coming from idler area. Finally I investigated it- my idler was frozen- belt showed signs of rubbing- but did not break. I don't think your belt is breaking from rubbing something- I think it has to catch an edge of something stationary ( maybe while flapping) to break it. Are your guides up by the engine drive pulley adjusted correctly- I think I can see them in the video behind the drive pulley- they look too tight. Hope you find your answer- its frustrating, I know- Al
  2. Happy Anniversary Red Square !

    HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! This is one of the few sites I have stuck with over the years. Great Hobby, great Guys, Good, respectful behavior. Keep up the good work!
  3. Power Steering pump help

    Bleeding can be a problem in these- take your time and turn it lock to lock slowly several times- are the any leaks any where? Steering box itself leaking? If no leaks are present- you have air in the system that is coming out slowly over time. You may have to loosen a pressure line and bleed it out. Good Luck- Al
  4. Hello Guys- I just picked up a complete Plow & Frame & brackets with bolts & plates assembly in good shape- No rust through , only surface rust- Blade strong & wear bar in good shape- It does not have a tag on it. It comes with solid lift bar ( to put down pressure on) It has Arm with round black ball on it to angle blade & foot pedal to release the blade to angle it. The release pin is pulled by a solid flat arm with a twist in it near the attachment points. I hope this description is good enough- I can't post pictures. This is structurally one of the best plows I have ever had. Thanks- Al If you are interested PM or Email me I can send you Pictures

    Thanks Howie- the camshaft pulley is used to power all the wheel drive ( forward & backward) the disc drive selects forward or reverse- without using any second shaft- the snow blower would not move. I think I have it figured out- but will have to trial & error it first- Al Also the second shaft9Camshaft driven) turns at 1/2 speed of the regular crankshaft-without some sort of way to slow down the new engine out put for wheel drive- you would need track shoes to keep up with it!
  6. Hello Guys- I'm faced with refurbishing an Ariens 2 stage snow blower for friend- BUT- he would like a "NEW" engine-OHV, etc. I thought Predator- but then I discovered the snow blower has a twin shaft Tecumseh H-35 on it. Anybody ever successfully substituted a single shaft engine on these? Figure 8 the belt on the blower wheel drive- but then you still have the 1/2 speed problem? Thanks for any help- Al
  7. Our dear member has gone to Wheel Horse Heaven

    Prayers for his Family- He is gone on to a better place- R.I.P. --Al

    Trying Photo Bucket WONDERFUL!- Sorry- Al

    My membership expired- and with my Foster Son there is no extra cash available to renew it- I used to use Photo Bucket but I don't know if you can still do that. Thanks- Al

    Hey guys- sounds like Fish for supper!- Na- I just picked up a vintage Snapper Rear Tine Tiller for a friend. It has a broken rod. The folks he got it from just gave up on it, I guess. At first looks like "easy peasy" rebuild or repower. But not that easy-Hard to find a new heavy flywheel engine for cheap- and good used ones are few & far between. SO- looks like I'm trying to save it- already got the crank polished , now just need to MIc everything- luckily there was no other damage inside-Once I measure everything then I can think about a rod , rings & maybe a piston. Electrics were new , including the Magnetron. Everything else is in super condition, boots on axles and belts & pulleys, even the tires look fairly new. I also picked up it's little brother named "Wizard" , engine just worn out- re-adjusted the valves , got a little more compression, then I shot oil in the plug hole & compression came up temporarily. This is a side shaft Briggs also- 3.5 hp. The rest of it is in good condition. Looking for replacement power for this- but has to be heavy flywheel- not lawn mower. God just decided it was time for me to do 'a little gardening" I guess. Let you know how its coming out- Thanks- Al Shoot- I forgot I cant post pics. Its a Snapper R-5000 & the other is Wizard 3.5 by from Firestone.
  11. SOLID STATE IGNITION-1972 RAIDER K-301 engine

    Good advice guys- Guy says he wants to keep it original! You know what that means- OEM trigger for $242. I notified Brian Miller, but also told him I will not complete the order until I see the cash- "just saying". Thanks for the help- Ill keep you posted, maybe even a few pics- Al
  12. SOLID STATE IGNITION-1972 RAIDER K-301 engine

    Just heard from Brian Miller- $242 for OEM Kohler trigger- or- $168 for his complete solid state kit-OR- $68 for his points conversion kit- Decisions, Decisions- Al
  13. SOLID STATE IGNITION-1972 RAIDER K-301 engine

    Used a Flash light tester on the trigger- diodes tested OK- but SCR switch would not react to tapping-I assume this is how they most frequently go bad. Anyone have a used one? I Emailed Brian Miller to see if he had a direct replacement trigger that would fit. Don't think this guy wants to spend nearly $200 for a full kit from B. Miller. If I can't find anything- it looks like I might be taking at least 2 steps backwards & converting to points- Thanks- Al
  14. SOLID STATE IGNITION-1972 RAIDER K-301 engine

    Thanks for the refresher- I checked the coil- it ohms out correctly- no shorts- (but what about when it heats up) Tractor ran for about 10 min then just shut off no spark- still has no spark- except when turning key off- I unhooked the kill wire from the switch- still no spark-borrowing a flash lite tester to check trigger- thought I had found a frayed wire near starter, but false alarm. When I had spark, I remember it was fast like you say- wish I could get it back- really don't want to convert this thing over- Thanks- Al
  15. SOLID STATE IGNITION-1972 RAIDER K-301 engine

    Youre right I'm confused- I knew what I meant- but on one else did- thats why someone said to disconnect the wire at the coil coming from the switch-to see if it was grounding it. SO- if it is powered by stator, does a spark mean the stator is good? I think I'm in over my head!- Al